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Topic: Making Your Own Corset?  (Read 233377 times)
Tags for this thread: corset , stay , boning , grommet , busk  Add new tag
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Maggiedoll
« Reply #1010 on: February 24, 2010 08:21:54 PM »

Somebody mentioned (somewhere around page 50, I think..) frequently throwing off their machine's timing while making corsets and having to pay to get the needle bar re-adjusted..  I thought I'd post the link to how to do it yourself.  I haven't yet had that problem while making corsets, but once my dog sat on my foot petal and totally jammed it up..  Anyway, this shows you how to fix it on most machines: http://www.fixsewingmachines.com/How-to-Adjust-the-Needle-Bar-Height.html
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« Reply #1011 on: February 25, 2010 09:17:50 AM »

I sooooo love corsets! I want to learn too how to make 'em. Please please give tips on how to make the perfect one. Thanks!
Tip No. 1: read the previous 100 pages

Teehee  Wink
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« Reply #1012 on: February 25, 2010 09:31:41 AM »

Hey there

Thanks for drawing the mockup thingy, but I'm still confused. Both you, DarkLeather and Roethke show a pattern that's rectangular. So the length of the underbust measurement (on top) is the same as the length of the hip measurement (the bottom edge). I don't get how that works. A hip measurement would always be quite significantly bigger than an underbust/ribcage measurement, right? (Mine is!) So shouldn't the pattern, before it's sliced up into panels, look like a trapezoid - you know, kind of A-line? To reflect the fact that the hips at the bottom are wider than the underbust at the top?

Otherwise I can't figure out how the hips would fit (if the underbust measurement is taken to make the width of the corset, like you show).... or, if you do it the other way like DarkLeather and use the hip measurement, how it fits snugly around the underbust without being really baggy?

Am I making sense at all here? :p

It could be that on their bodies these measurements are the same.  I'm with you, though - my measurements are a bit different.  To make this work, I take the larger measurement (my hip area) and make the rectangle as wide as that.  (rather, half as wide, since the pattern is only half of the corset) 

From there, I figure the difference between my hip and my underbust, divide that by 2, (since, again, just working with half a corset here) divide THAT number by the number of seams I have on one half of the corset, and then divide in half AGAIN, since you will want to bring the pattern piece in that measurement on each of the upper panel intersections. 

It makes sense to me, but is confusing to read.  Let me know if you have any questions.
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Maggiedoll
« Reply #1013 on: February 25, 2010 04:54:27 PM »

and then divide in half AGAIN, since you will want to bring the pattern piece in that measurement on each of the upper panel intersections. 
I was totally following until that bit..  I have no idea what you meant by that last part. 
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« Reply #1014 on: February 26, 2010 08:24:11 AM »

and then divide in half AGAIN, since you will want to bring the pattern piece in that measurement on each of the upper panel intersections.  
I was totally following until that bit..  I have no idea what you meant by that last part.  

Well, the measurement you get before that point is how much you want to take in at each seam, not on each panel.  If you took each panel in that amount, you'd essentially be doubling the amount you were reducing the underbust by, which would make it too small.  

Just imagine there's a line in between each of the panels...if you centered the total amount you were taking in over that imaginary line, half of the amount you wanted to take in would fall on each adjacent panel. (thus why you would divide by two)

It's prolly still a little Huh to understand.  I would draw you a picture in paint, but I'd like to avoid that right now, since I'm at work.  Tongue
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Maggiedoll
« Reply #1015 on: February 27, 2010 05:39:38 PM »

Okay, I get it, actually, I was messing with this free CAD program that's actually good, I think I might buy the full version, because that's actually reasonably priced, too..  and that's when I saw what you were saying.  When you're smaller up top than in the hips, you still have to make a rectangle for the pattern, you just have to make the pattern pieces at the top smaller.  (Somehow that wasn't clicking before.) So I'd decrease it by one inch at each of three seams in each side, because my top half is six inches smaller than my bottom half, which is half an inch off of each of the pieces that meet at those seams.  (The front and back ones should be straight.. that's the whole point of the rectangle with the pieces out of it.) 
Like this for half of it, although I've got one of the seams a bit too far back.. but seriously, I just downloaded this CAD program this afternoon and I can actually flippin' use it!  How awesome is that!?  It's all intuitive and has layers and everything..  OMG, I'm such a dork... (This isn't final, I just had to post it and how it works and I'm so in love with this program, it made it make sense!  Itself and the concept that I didn't get!  I think I'm gonna explode.)
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Smokering
« Reply #1016 on: March 05, 2010 02:44:32 AM »

Oops, haven't checked this thread for way too long!

i made a cotton mockup with measurements that took my hip-underbust measurement difference into account (before I read the recent posts on this thread). Only problem is, for some reason I made the pattern for the whole corset instead of doing each half separately. i forget how I did it exactly, but the front centre two panels (panels six and seven of 12) have a perfectly straight seam, and the first and twelfth panels - the back centre two - are shaped like this: < and >. Well, not quite as dramatic, but definitely not a straight line. It'd straighten up if I laced it really tight, I guess, thus cinching in my waist (which is, after all, kind of the point) - but that would strain the fabric and seams worse than normal on a corset. I think. Plus, the straight seam at the front isn't very flattering, it means my waist is only pinched in at the sides and not in front.

Soooo, if I make up yet another pattern for only half the corset pieces, that'll solve the issues - right? I really hope so, because this'll be like my fourth or fifth attempt. :p

Thanks for the advice! I thought I was going crazy there for a while.
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Aislynn
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« Reply #1017 on: March 08, 2010 06:42:57 PM »

It's official!  I've started my muslin for Simplicity 9769.  I'm planning on making a costume bodice with it, once I get the muslin down, with duck, twill, and a pretty satin.  I'm omitting the busk, and just going to get someone to help lace me in, because of the other costume pieces, and for now I'll be omitting the boning (I know, I  know....that makes it not a "real" corset, but I can't afford it, and the goal here is to just get the pattern to fit).  I'm going to do the boning channels between the duck and the twill so that I can add it in later.  If I can find duct ties, I might give those a shot, but I've heard some horror stories, so I don't know.  But I'm excited, regardless!  I figure if I can get a working pattern, I'll be a step in the right direction.
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mahvelousmeat
« Reply #1018 on: June 05, 2010 04:55:57 PM »

So I've made it all the way through the thread...yay me! Hehehehe. Anyway, I picked up Simplicity 2890 last time Joann's was doing the $1 Simplicity patterns. I was wondering if anyone had tried it out, especially adjusting the neckline up a wee bit. I've worked with rigiline before, in theatrical costumes and the like, but I plan on going out and doing the busk/flat steel/spring steel trifecta of awesome.
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Tasek
« Reply #1019 on: June 18, 2010 12:08:07 AM »

I'm looking to make a corset with boning on the outside and a zipper at the front.
Could anyone suggest a pattern?
I really want it to have a sort of sweetheart neckline.
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