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Topic: Making Your Own Corset?  (Read 249336 times)
Tags for this thread: corset , stay , boning , grommet , busk  Add new tag
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Smokering
« Reply #1000 on: December 14, 2009 12:14:44 PM »

Well, this is all hypothetical because I'm still mocking mine up, but the consensus from a bunch of Internet reading seems to be that duck is the best. Twill goes off grain more easily and denim usually has a slight stretch.
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Aislynn
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« Reply #1001 on: December 14, 2009 01:56:36 PM »

Awesome!  That's exactly the information I was looking for, thanks!
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Davinia
« Reply #1002 on: December 16, 2009 08:31:18 AM »

This thread is so impressive!  After studying it, and gaining a bit more confidence with sewing (not to mention patience!) I'm just about ready to start mocking up my first corset.  It's going to be a long term project.  I've noticed a lot of people have said they use twill, duck, or denim in place of coutil--which one is preferable?  I'm planning on, ultimately, making a three layer corset that is *crossing fingers* reversible.  Also, I can't decide if I want to put in a busk.  I know if I don't I'll have to completely unlace and relace the thing, but I'm sort of okay with that.

I can't wait to get started!  (I'm going to be using the Simplicity Civil War pattern.)
If you make your laces long enough, then it's not neccecary to completely relace every time. But if you want to be able to do yourself up a busk is certainly preferable.
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Smokering
« Reply #1003 on: January 11, 2010 04:09:21 PM »

Arrgh. Anyone used the DarkLeather underbust corset tute?

I made half a denim mockup (one side, middle of tummy to middle of back) and it's way too loose at the top and a little loose at the bottom. Thinking about it, I don't get why the tute says to use the hip measurement, cinched in by 4 inches in the middle to shape the corset. My underbust (ribs-ish) measurement is obviously a lot smaller than my hip measurement (which I think I made a bit too big anyway, because I measured around the widest part of my hips and the corset doesn't go down that far).

So... shouldn't the pattern look narrower towards the top, with the top measurement being my underbust measurement minus one inch and the bottom measurement being my hip measurement minus one inch? And then the whole thing sliced into six and the six pieces "scooped out" in the middle to lose two inches off the waist measurement (four, once the pattern's doubled to make both sides of the corset)?

But then, that would make all the pieces wider towards the bottom. And commercial corsets seem to have each piece of a similar width at the top and bottom, slightly narrower in the middle, just like the DarkLeather tute says. I must be missing something.

I do have a waist slightly more than 2 inches smaller than my underbust measurement, which he warned about in the tute... but that shouldn't cause this problem, should it? The opposite, if anything. My corset boning arrived in the mail and I'm keen to get going, but I don't want to waste fabric on a corset that's all gappy around the top edge. Does this problem resolve itself once boning and more layers of fabric are added... and if so, HOW? I don't get it.  Undecided
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Alexus1325
« Reply #1004 on: January 18, 2010 07:41:48 PM »

Smokering: How it's supposed to work out is that once you cinch yourself in, the fabric will be snug all the way around and both lacing bones in the back will be straight up and down with no difference in the distance between them from top to bottom. Hope that makes sense. Anyways, once your boning arrives, put it in your mockup and test out the fit. Once you're cinched in, then you make decisions regarding adjusting the fit.

Alternatively, you can draft the whole thing from scratch using your own measurements. You need to know how far down from the top of your corset your waist is in the front, the side and the back, as well as your waist, underbust, and upper hip measure and how far each measurement is from the others. With a bunch of math you can figure out how to divide it into panels. Let me paint up an example of what it should look like...



You have to add the seam allowances after. I used this method only once, and it turned out great, but I wish I'd make a mock-up first, because I made it too short Tongue Good thing it was only a fashion corset.

Roethke actually has a step-by-step showing this method with lots of construction pictures. Everybody loves pictures!

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=122286.0

Best of luck Cheesy
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Smokering
« Reply #1005 on: January 21, 2010 04:17:45 PM »

Hey there

Thanks for drawing the mockup thingy, but I'm still confused. Both you, DarkLeather and Roethke show a pattern that's rectangular. So the length of the underbust measurement (on top) is the same as the length of the hip measurement (the bottom edge). I don't get how that works. A hip measurement would always be quite significantly bigger than an underbust/ribcage measurement, right? (Mine is!) So shouldn't the pattern, before it's sliced up into panels, look like a trapezoid - you know, kind of A-line? To reflect the fact that the hips at the bottom are wider than the underbust at the top?

Otherwise I can't figure out how the hips would fit (if the underbust measurement is taken to make the width of the corset, like you show).... or, if you do it the other way like DarkLeather and use the hip measurement, how it fits snugly around the underbust without being really baggy?

Am I making sense at all here? :p
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« Reply #1006 on: January 21, 2010 05:59:51 PM »

Hey Smokering!  I haven't entered the world of corset making yet (I'm still gathering supplies!) but from my understanding, most corsets actually sit on top of the hip.  That's what that rise is there in the center of the pattern.  The two pieces that dip down go over your tummy and lower back, but that curve perches on the top of your hip bone.  I have one pre-made corset, an overbust, and it's roughly the same idea.  If your lower half is significantly wider than your upper half, or if you wanted to have the corset extend down over your hips, I think you could either a) widen the lower part of each piece, where it extends down, or b) add godets to accommodate the hip.
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Smokering
« Reply #1007 on: January 21, 2010 07:16:34 PM »

Oh, OK. That does make more sense. :p

The corset I'm trying to make comes kinda mid-hip. So what I did was draft a pattern where the top line was my underbust measurement and the bottom was my mid-hip measurement, with waist in between - making the outside of the whole pattern have a slight hourglassy shape to begin with. Then I divided the whole pattern into 12 and marked the top, waist and bottom lines into twelfths. From there I pretty much followed the DarkLeather tute idea, snipping out bits of the waist to cinch it in. What eventually happened was the pieces towards the front of the corset were almost straight, while the pieces towards the back had a kind of < shape (not that severe, but somewhat zig-zaggy). I made half a mockup and it fit surprisingly well, given that it was just calico with no boning or anything - no bagging around the underbust, and the hips fit pretty sleekly. I'm just waiting on the sewing machine to do the other half, and hopefully it'll look good once it's done! I like it: it seems to allow more room at the back to accommodate my bottom, which is nice. :p
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CraftyLittleLady
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« Reply #1008 on: January 28, 2010 09:56:09 AM »

I sooooo love corsets! I want to learn too how to make 'em. Please please give tips on how to make the perfect one. Thanks!
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Davinia
« Reply #1009 on: January 28, 2010 11:11:45 AM »

I sooooo love corsets! I want to learn too how to make 'em. Please please give tips on how to make the perfect one. Thanks!
Tip No. 1: read the previous 100 pages
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