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Topic: Coat Lining/Closure/Size?  (Read 513 times)
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KittyKurl
« on: March 20, 2006 03:59:55 PM »

Hey there!

I am planning to make a new coat (yes, I know winter is over, but I don't care, I want a new coat!!), and had some questions about it.. that I know you guys can answer because of all the amazing things you have made!!

My first question: size. How much bigger am I supposed to make a coat than my other clothes. Say I had a tshirt, how much bigger would I make the coat than the shirt?? I really don't know how big to make it.. And yes, I am making the pattern myself, so I don't have any help from another pattern   XD

Lining: I was planning to use a patterned flannel or cotton lining, depending on which one I could find that pattern I like. Are these suitable linings? Or are they just no good for a coat, they hold moisture or something, if you know what I mean? If those didn't work out, I was thinking of silk (cheap!), would that be okay if the others aren't?? I really have no idea.
   For the outside of the coat, I was going to use wool material, like the type used for peacoats (??). If this is the right material I'm thinking of, then it's supposed to be warm even without down or anything in it, so that's why I wanted to use it. I am hoping that it's not too expensive...

Closure: I was going to put those cord frog things on it, in thicker cord so it could hold up. Are these okay for a coat? I was also going to put a zipper underneath another flap in it, so it would stay closed O_O. Are frogs good for this? I wanted toggles, but am too lazy to find out if there are any stores that even sell them.. :]
   I was thinking of making the closures off center, like to the left of the coat a bit. But I don't know if that would look good at all with frogs/toggles. Do you think it would look best centered?

Thanks for any and all help everyone!! I really appreciate any suggestions and everything!! Thankkss!
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Sewstamp
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2006 04:12:38 PM »

The coat would have to be a little larger than your clothes but not so much you swim in it. I would use something slick to line the sleeves as it is really hard to put it on if the lining of the sleeves is a napped fabric. There are special lining fabrics that you can buy but if this is just going to be your average coat and not one you'll use in arctic weather, you don't have to worry about being able to wick the moisture away. If you plan on doing a lot of work outside where you'll be sweating in it, then I'd go for the special lining. To find special coat lining, just google it. Wool material is very suitable for the outside of the coat. The frogs are, too if you feel they are secure enough. If you have a flap with a zipper under it, the frogs would be fine. If you really want it to be held closed, I'd forgo the frogs and use toggles or buttons and buttonholes. Either would look okay with a centered opening or an off-center one. You could also google for where you can find toggles.  I made a patchwork coat once with squares of fabric that were light at the top of the coat and got darker toward the bottom. I wanted toggles but couldn't find them locally so I bought tiny wooden rolling pins about 1.5" long, painted them, drilled a couple of holes in the center of them and sewed them on like buttons. I painted the top ones lighter than I did the bottom ones. Have fun.
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KittyKurl
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2006 04:54:53 PM »

Thanks for the advice! But is cotton napped fabric? There aren't really any raised threads are there? Hm..
« Last Edit: March 20, 2006 04:56:33 PM by KittyKurl » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2006 04:21:29 AM »

I'd stay away from flannel or cotton for linings - you want something slippery so your clothes don't grab against the coat everytime you put it on. Remember when you put on a sweater and you have to hold your shirtsleeves in your hands as you put the sweater on so they don't ride up to your elbows? Yeah, it's the same principle with a coat.

Go for anything slippery, silk, polyester, etc. Usually lining fabrics are thinner and cheaper than other fabrics and are built especially for this.

Also, I found this Threads guide to be reeeeeeeally helpful in creating and inserting a lining. I used this technique on two different jackets and they look really professional. Smiley
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2006 07:25:23 AM »

My first question: size. How much bigger am I supposed to make a coat than my other clothes. Say I had a tshirt, how much bigger would I make the coat than the shirt??

it depends on how big the t-shirt is.  Smiley

an ordinary blouse should have 2"-3" of ease at the bust and hips.  if you are going to wear the coat over t-shirts, it doesn't need more than 1"-2" additional ease.  but if you plan to wear it over bulky sweaters, or more than one layer of clothing, you need to allow more. 

you also need to drop the armscye at least 1", and if you plan to put in shoulder pad raise the shoulder point by whatever thickness pad you choose.

Quote
Lining: I was planning to use a patterned flannel or cotton lining, depending on which one I could find that pattern I like. Are these suitable linings? Or are they just no good for a coat, they hold moisture or something, if you know what I mean? If those didn't work out, I was thinking of silk (cheap!), would that be okay if the others aren't?? I really have no idea.

silk is not that expensive, but the standard is bemberg rayon.  draft your lining so that there is a pleat at the center back to allow for movement, make the sleeve fuller and pleat it into the armscye, make the length of the sleeve and body the same as the coat but fold out some of it when you stitch it in.  look at a coat you already have to see what i'm talking about.  all these things are for walking ease and they keep the lining from tearing.

Quote
   For the outside of the coat, I was going to use wool material, like the type used for peacoats (??). If this is the right material I'm thinking of, then it's supposed to be warm even without down or anything in it, so that's why I wanted to use it. I am hoping that it's not too expensive...

good wool is not that expensive, but it isn't cheap.  if you want something as thick as a peacoat, you need to full the wool first.

Quote
Closure: I was going to put those cord frog things on it, in thicker cord so it could hold up. Are these okay for a coat? I was also going to put a zipper underneath another flap in it, so it would stay closed O_O. Are frogs good for this? I wanted toggles, but am too lazy to find out if there are any stores that even sell them.. :]

any of these choices is fine, and most stores that sell frogs sell toggles too.  or you can make your own frogs and toggles.

Quote
I was thinking of making the closures off center, like to the left of the coat a bit. But I don't know if that would look good at all with frogs/toggles. Do you think it would look best centered?

it is your choice--some people will think it looks better centered, some will think it looks better offcenter.  as long as you make it well off center--so it doesn't look like it was just a mistake--then it will look like a design choice which is what it is.
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KittyKurl
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2006 08:19:49 PM »

Thanks for suggestions everyone!!
For sizing, thanks rostitchery! Lots of good stuff in there.. I found it really helpful! So if I have a sweater, I could probably measure a few inches around it and that would be a good size for the coat. Then would it matter for the armscye? Or is it really important to drop it even if the coat is big enough?

I'll probably use silk/lining material instead of cotton then! thanks!
What is 'full the wool'? Sorry I don't understand!

Whoa that link is great squirrellypoo! I just went to it and it is fantastic! Looks so professional , and easy too! thanks so much! I am definately going to use it!!



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« Last Edit: March 22, 2006 07:45:34 PM by KittyKurl » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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