So I imagine you draw the image on the rubber block free-hand? Or maybe it was transfered somehow??
Since kumf said the image came from the internet, I'm going to assume it was printed out and transferred to the cutting block. To do this on white rubber carving material all you need is an image that came from a laser printer or a photocopier (ink jet-type printer inks don't work for this method) and acetone (nail polish remover works just fine). Trim around (but not right up to) the image, place it face side down on the cutting block, dampen (do not over-wet) a cotton ball or pad or a piece of kleenex or even toilet paper and then "burnish" it across the back of the image. Lift a corner to see if the image has transferred. Burnish a little more if necessary, but take care not to over-saturate the piece of paper with acetone or the image will shmoosh (that's a technical term you all should learn). Lift the paper and voila
, the image is transferred and ready to be carved. If you do smoosh (a variant on the technical term) the image, you can clean it off the carving block with acetone. Be sure to then rinse the block to get rid of the acetone and it's ready for you to try again. (Getting the acetone-to-cotton-pad ratio right is tricky, so I've learned to make at least a few copies of an image in case of bad transfers.)
And yes, you can draw directly onto the block as well.
How many times did you cut yourself?
And yours has so much more detail than mine ever did.
This is so unbelievable, but I actually didn't cut myself at all (which doesn't even make sense). I read up on carving on the internet before I bought the speedball kit, and one website tutorial made this huge deal about making sure not to "undercut" the image (as in cutting toward the stencil shape), so I made sure to always carve out and away from the design. I believe this contributed greatly to uninjured success
You can get a carving set for about $10 that includes a handle and four or five different blades that make carving so much easier than an x-acto knife while also keeping cutting accidents to a minimum, because most of the blades are V- or U-shaped. As opposed to using an x-acto, which requires that you make at least two cuts to be able to remove material (providing oh so many opportunities for self-slicing), these shapes not only allow you to remove rubber with a single cut they are also angled so that if you're holding the tool properly (which is easy to determine as you carve) you pretty much can't undercut. The blades are different sizes for ease in making wider and narrower cuts.