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Topic: Sweater theory- sleeves  (Read 573 times)
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Thesingingllamas
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« on: December 13, 2005 10:26:53 PM »

So, say I was designing a sweater. The body I get, but designing the sleeves I'm confused. Arms are funny things. Like do I use the same ratio of decreases all the way up the arm? Make different ratios for wrist to elbow and elbow to armpit? Now this isn't takling into account the shaping for the sleeve cap or ralgan part, but just the part from the wrist to right before the shaping.
Thanks to anyone that can help me out.
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kadreath
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« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2005 10:51:32 PM »

Knitty has a great 3 part article on this very subject!
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Thesingingllamas
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2005 03:07:43 PM »

hmm *scratches head* those are all very nice articles, but I don't think I found the answer to my question in those. Thanks for the link, though. Well, I'm wondering, if I want a fitted long sleeve, either raglan or cap sleeve, is it usually decrease/increase every x rows, or is it like decrease/increase _ stitches every x rows then _ stitches every y rows. Thats what is tripping me up. And if it is the second one, how do I figure that?
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mew
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2005 04:10:46 PM »

There is no such thing as a magical number of "decrease every x rows". Why? Because yarn knits at different gauges.
If you're working in sock weight yarn, you may find that for sleeve cap shaping (for inset sleeves) that you have to decrease more than 2 stitches in a row, or have to work around having to sometimes decrease every 2 rows and sometimes every 3 rows.
If you're working at 3 sts/inch, well, decreasing is going to have a much larger impact on the shaping of the piece, so you end up decreases less.

Best way to design a sleeve?
Figure out what kind you want. Raglan, dolman, set in, etc etc...
Read the knitty articles about how those sleeves are shaped to set up the cap shaping bit.

For the rest of the sleeve, it depends on personal preference. I have some sweaters knit with no sleeve shaping up until the sleeve cap. They're comfortable, wide, sleeves with big cuffs. If you want something form fitting, measure your own arms, figure out how many stitches at multiple points (wrist, forearm, elbow, bicep...) would be right for you, and decrease/increase accordingly.
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hst
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2005 04:18:40 PM »

I highly suggest reading an Elizabeth Zimmermann book.
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hoxierice
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« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2005 05:15:03 PM »

I highly suggest reading an Elizabeth Zimmermann book.

here here!
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rhiandmoi
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2005 05:28:25 PM »

I would treat the upper arm to the elbow and the elbow to the wrist seperately. So say your upper arm to elbow is 7.5 inches long with the top arm circumference of 16in and the elbow circumference of 14 in. So you need to decrease 2 inches over the 7.5 inches. So now lets use a hypothetical gauge of 6 stitches and 8 rows per inch. So you need to decrease 12 stitches over 60 rows. Since you will probably do a paired decrease you need to have 6 decrease rows in that 60 rows. Or do a paired decrease every 10 rows.

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Thesingingllamas
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« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2005 05:54:30 PM »

*sigh of relief* Thank you rhiandmoi, you finally understood what I was having trouble with.
And I know there are different guages that why I used the variable x, but I was trying to show a difference between just x compared to x and y. I will keep all of your suggestions in mind.
I like doing the calculations and being able to figure out the pattern before I try knitting it and have to frog it a bunch of times.
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