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Topic: IK Fall '05 Skacel add pinwheel sweater KAL!  (Read 16591 times)
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spudsayshi
« Reply #70 on: January 10, 2006 11:49:45 AM »

yogaknitty, I'm doing the grey/creamy white (there's a picture on my blog).  I liked the look of the mulberry, but that's totally my normal color, and I've been trying to branch out as much as possible.

Although now that I think about it, I just ordered new yarn basically back in that color family.  Crap.

I almost always try to use bamboo needles, because I tend to knit loosely and metals, or even plastics, are too slippery for me.  Plus I just like the bamboo.  I'm also attempting to manage the project without buying two circular 15s because they're so freaking expensive.  Waste yarn, here I come.

Adding this a day later:  man, 15s go fast!  This is the first project on which I've used such big needles, and I'm amazed.  I'm done with one sleeve and well into the front (or back).  Of course, this has something to do with compulsiveness, too.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2006 10:37:14 AM by spudsayshi » THIS ROCKS   Logged
nicolethegeek
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« Reply #71 on: January 11, 2006 10:57:50 AM »

After getting sidetracked by various things over the last 2 months, I'm now ready to start in with the actual construction of this sweater, full force! I read through the entire thread to note any corrections or alterations made by those of you that have forged on ahead! I need to alter the sweater slightly as I will NOT fit a 36" bust... mebbe when I was 14, but deffo not at 34! ROFL. I need it to be at least 40" when finished.

Anyway...  a question for those of you that have altered and finished:
Mainly to the person that added 6 rows to the pinwheel: What did that add to your finished size {widthwise}? I'm not concerned about length really, but was curious as whether or not that would be enough to accommodate my bust measurement changes.
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May all your projects be frog-less, and all your patterns error-free!

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yogaknitty
« Reply #72 on: January 11, 2006 12:08:31 PM »

nicolethegeek, I added by picking up stitches along the sides of ONE pinwheel, knit four rows and then used the live stitches to graft onto the other pinwheel section.  It may actually have helped the edges because they sure were peculiar looking due to the bind-off process they had.  It seemed to smooth out the sides.  I only needed that much so it wouldn't be too close for comfort, as it were.  The length is fine, and that's kind weird because I'm 5/11".  But whatever, it worked.  That way, if it looked too odd, I could just rip, no harm done.
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homrighaus
« Reply #73 on: January 11, 2006 12:36:04 PM »

At last, here is a picture of the finished product:



I don't have a good picture in which I'm wearing it, so you'll have to trust that it's cool. The gray parts and the dark blue parts on the sleeves and body sort of line up in an interesting way.

I measured, and it is about 19.5 inches wide (39" around) and 25.5" long (though this dimension is hard to measure). As I mentioned before, I added 6 rows to the pinwheel to make it both longer and wider. I never did quite get gauge, though, so this didn't add 8 inches to the final sweater (as the 6 rows in gauge would suggest). As you can see on the picture, where the extra rows on the sides of the sweater are bluer than the others, it probably only added about 1" per side after the seams are taken into account -- maybe 5 inches total to the width? Without adding those rows, it would have been form-fitting, and I thought such a hot sweater shouldn't also be form-fitting. But again, I didn't get the gauge (or even try very hard), I got about 10 stitches over 4 inches, so mine will be different than yours.

I have typed up my pattern modifications, including the two-color modifications I did, and I'd be willing to share them if anyone wants. Just let me know.
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wabbit
« Reply #74 on: January 12, 2006 01:24:10 AM »

Yes, homrighaus, please do share the pattern modifications (since there seems to be need for a lot of them ?). The photograph of the original sweater is haunting me day and night Roll Eyes , but yours also looks very pretty.
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"Even if I were thinking, which I am not, that would not show that I exist."
lanyu
« Reply #75 on: January 12, 2006 06:39:36 AM »

homrighaus,

Your completed sweater and all the previous clarification of the pattern inspire me to keep finishing this project!  I ripped off my first red wool one because I don't have enough yarns.  Now I am knitting the one with alpaca wool and about to finish the front and back parts.

I'll keep knitting and knitting until I finish it!  Thank you very much!
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Rumminator
« Reply #76 on: January 12, 2006 06:41:23 AM »

Hey guys!

I've been thinking about making this sweater for a while but hadn't been able to find the yarn.  Then i saw that some people were buying the Volare Mouline from elann.com but is that the same yarn as is called for in the pattern?  I thought it was but I looked up on yarndex and that and the Excellent Moulin (what's called for in the pattern) are different yarns with different gauges.  Am I overlooking something??  I guess it isn't that big of a deal but maybe that's why lots of people are having a hard time with gauge.  Just a thought...

Btw, homrighaus, your sweater looks great!  Smiley
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spudsayshi
« Reply #77 on: January 13, 2006 08:51:54 AM »

Hmmm... the Volare Mouline seems to be working pretty much at gauge for me.  It's a somewhat looser stitch than I'd expected, but that's not necessarily such a bad thing with such heavy yarn.

I finished the front (or back).  The pattern really is written oddly.  I realized that the reason for the four slipped stitches when first splitting into top and bottom is to keep the spirals symmetrical, so that makes sense.  But the way they've written out the split for the bottom corners is just dumb.  Figure-out-able, with help from earlier posts, but dumb nonetheless.

However, I'm not entirely sure I like the switch from smaller needles to big ones, and am thinking of starting the other side with bigger dpns to see if that's better.  This side went so quickly (seriously, I started the first sleeve at 10 pm Monday night, and have done a sleeve and a side since then) that I wouldn't mind frogging it too much.
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homrighaus
« Reply #78 on: January 14, 2006 02:44:08 PM »

Here, as best as I can remember, is the sweater as I knit it. Sorry for the long post -- hopefully this will help some people.

Pinwheel Sweater -- As modified by REH, 12/05

Finished Size and Measurements
Bust:   39.5”
Length:   25.5”   

Materials
Touch of Sweden gray with blue, 2-ply worsted weight
Green Mountain Spinnery Mountain Mohair in Peacock
Yarn is worked double stranded throughout, either two strands Touch of Sweden or one Touch of Sweden and one Green Mountain Spinnery.

Needles
Two Circular needles (32”) Size US#15
One Pair Double Pointed needles (dpn) Size US#13

Gauge
10 sts = 4”/10cm on larger needles over St st.

Overview
Front and Back are worked in the round starting with double pointed needles and beginning in the center.
All increases are made at approximately the same place.
Sleeves are extra long with “flared” shaping at bottom.

Abbreviations
M1 = inc 1 st by working horizontal bar between last worked st and next st.
Inc = increase
RS = right side row (knit)
WS = wrong side row (purl)
BO = bind off
sl2tog-K1-psso = slip 2 knitwise, K1, pass 2 slipped sts over knit st
K2T = knit two together
SKP = slip one knitwise, K1, pass slipped st over
St st = stockinette stitch

Instructions

Front and Back (make 2)

With dpn, cast on 8 sts and divide evenly over 4 needles (2 sts on each needle). Join and place marker for beg of rnd.

Row 1:    work even
Row 2:    M1 after each st = 16 sts.
Row 3:    work even
Row 4: *K2, m1* eight times
Row 5: work even
Row 6: *K3, m1* eight times
Row 7: work even
Row 8: *k4, m1* eight times
Row 9: work even
Row 10: *k5, m1* eight times = 48  sts.
Rows 11-12:    work even
Row 13:    M1 after every 4th st = 60 sts (15 sts on each needle). [FYI: This causes the spokes of the pinwheel to start to turn so that it becomes a pinwheel rather than a multi-pointed star.]
Row 14-15:    Change to one circular needle. Work even.
Row 16:   M1 inc after every 5th  st = 72 sts
Row 17 – 18:    work even
Row 19:    M1 after every 6th st = 84 sts
Row 20 – 21:    work even
Row 22:    M1 after every 7th st = 96 sts
Row 23 –24:    work even
Row 25:    M1 after every 8th st = 108 sts
Row 26 – 27:    work even
Row 28:    M1 after every 9th st = 120 sts
Row 29 – 30:    work even
Row 31:    M1 after every 10th st = 132 sts

For color variation, break 1 strand gray yarn at this point and join 1 strand blue. Continue using gray/blue combo until finished with front/back of sweater.

Work 6 rows even (or some other multiple) to increase the length and width of the pinwheel if desired.

Row 32: Bind off 14 sts loosely, k52, BO 14sts loosely, k52.
There is now a “top” and “bottom” section to the circle. 52sts each. Both sections will be worked separately on two circular needles.

Note: When binding off stitches adjacent to already bound-off stitches, slip 1, knit 1, psso instead of binding off the first stitch in the traditional way, then bind off remaining stitches. This helps to reduce the stair-step effect between the groups of bound off stitches.

TOP SECTION Join new yarn and work Top Section as follows:
Row 33:         (WS) BO 3 sts, P49
Row 34:   BO 3 sts, K12, * M1, K1 * twice, M1, K12
Row 35:   BO 3 sts, P46
Row 36:   BO 3 sts, K43
Row 37:    P43
Row 38:   BO remaining 43 sts.

BOTTOM SECTION
Row 33: (WS)   BO 2 sts, P50
Row 34:   BO 2 sts, K13   * M1, K11 * twice, M1,    K13 = 51 sts
Row 35:   BO 2 sts, P49
Row 36:   BO 2 sts, K47
Row 37:   BO 2 sts, P9, M1purlwise, P8, BO    center    9 sts, P7, M1purlwise, P12 = 39sts, 18 on one side and 20 on the other, with yarn attached to side with 20.

Bottom Section now divides into two sides. Left (18 sts) and Right (20 sts).  Work each row through both sides simultaneously if you wish, or do the side with the yarn attached first and then go back, join yarn, and do the other side. Try to bind off those stitches that will form the bottom hem loosely but evenly, as the hem could be tight if they are bound off too tightly.

Row 38:    Right side: BO 2 sts, K18. // Left side: Join new yarn and using other circular needle BO 5 sts, K13 = 31 sts
Row 39:   BO 5 sts, P13 // BO 2 sts, P11 = 24 sts
Row 40:   BO 2 sts, K11 //  BO 3 sts, K8 = 19 sts
Row 41:   BO 3 sts, P8 //   BO 2 sts, P6 = 14 sts
Row 42:   BO 2 sts, K6 //   BO 3 sts, K3 = 9 sts
Row 43:   BO 3 sts, P3 //  P3 = 6 sts
Row 44:         BO remaining 3 sts // BO remaining 3 sts.

SLEEVES  (make 2)

With circular needle [and using gray and blue yarn together], cast on 32 sts and work back and forth in St st. Dec 3 sts evenly across row every 10th row, twice = 26 sts. [Change to 2 strands gray.] Then inc 1 st at the beg and end of every 10th row 3 times = 32 sts. Work even until piece meas approx 18- in (47cm) from beg. (60 rows)

Raglan cap shaping:
[Change to blue/gray together.]
Row 61:   K4, sl2tog-K1-psso, K18, sl2tog-K1-psso, K4 = 28 sts
Row 62:   purl
Row 63:   K4, K2T, K16, SKP = 26 sts
Row 64:   purl
Row 65:      K4, sl2tog-K1-psso, K12, sl2tog-K1-psso, K4 = 22 sts

Row 66 – 78:   Work in St st
Row 79:   K8, SKP, K2, K2T, K8 = 20 sts
Row 80 – 84:   Work in St st
Row 85:   K8, SKP, K2T, K8 = 18 sts
Row 86 – 90:   Work in St st
Row 91:   Place remaining 18 sts on holder. (Piece should meas approx 28” from beg.)

FINISHING

Sleeves:

Set in sleeves above marker (see arrow on schematic). I figured out where this was by marking the middle stitch of the top and counting out to find the edges of the collar opening. Then I lined up the top of the sleeve with the edge of the collar opening on both sides and matched the sleeve to the body of the sweater. See my earlier post on this.

Sew side and sleeve seams.

Collar:
With circular needle [and holding blue and gray together], pick up 14 sts along front and back and work 18 sts from each sleeve = 64 sts. Join and work in St st, decreasing 4 sts evenly across 1st rnd = 60 sts. [I put these decreases where the collar met the sleeves on both sides.] When collar measures 2in (5cm), dec 8 sts evenly around = 52 sts. [I put these decreases as above plus one in the middle of the front, one in the middle of the back, and one in the middle of each sleeve.] Work 2in (5cm) more, then bind off all sts loosely.

This sweater benefits from blocking. Try washing it by hand in Woolite, then squeezing as much water out as you can. Lay it out flat on a towel, roll it up in the towel, and stand on it to get water out. Repeat until you can't get any more water out of the sweater. Then lay it flat on a towel on the floor and carefully arrange it in the shape you want, lengthening or widening a bit here and there if need be. Encourage the bottom of the sweater, sleeves, and the collar to roll. Leave it there to dry -- it may take a day or even two, but it will be worth it!
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alexandra_m79
« Reply #79 on: January 16, 2006 02:19:51 AM »

I started this sweater this Saturday and this seems to be a quick knit. I have completed the front and am about 25 rows into both sleeves. I am using Lana Grossa Easy Print in the Green Colourway and so far, it's coming along nicely. Because my gauge is not exactly as indicated in the pattern but more like 10 stitches and 13 rows I did 4 additional rounds at the full size of the pinwheel just as suggested earlier. I just hope that I have enough yarn, the skeins are disappearing at a fast pace. The instructions for the bottom confused me a bit, are those to be read from left to right, just as usual or in any different way? I had the impression that every other row the right part of the instructions was to be done first, then the left. Only this way I ended up with the same number of stitches as described. I hope I can get in a few hours of knitting this week, so that I'll have at least the sleeves finished by the weekend.
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