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Topic: help w/ yarn substitution  (Read 337 times)
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« on: September 15, 2005 04:59:47 AM »

I am trying to knit a pattern with a substituted yarn for the first time. The yarn I have is a different gauge than the pattern calls for, so I'm following the direction in SnBN to find my stitch and row ratio.

Easy enough, except where the book says to divide your stitches per inch by the pattern gauge's stitches per inch, I have a question.

The yarn I am using is significantly thinner than is called for. So, in order to get the same "drape" of fabric, I had to go down from size 15 needles to size 10.5. I am still off gauge, which is why I;m trying to convert the pattern using a stitch and row ratio.

To get my stitch ratio, does it matter what size needles I used for MY swatch? Or should Iuse the suggested needles and have a really airy knit (not what the pattern intends, BTW).

The reason I ask has to do with this second question:

The pattern calls for two needle sizes - 15 and 10.5. The gauge is knit with the larger needles, but the cast on is started with the smaller needles. Soooo, when I finally finished my swatch, I was using size 10.5 needles (instead of the 15s). Does this mean need to go down to size 7 needles to cast on? (I got that number by finding my "needle ratio," i.e. my size needles divided by what the pattern gauge calls for.)

Does any of this even make any sense. Fark, I hate math. Your suggestions are very welcome, if I haven't further confused you.



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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2005 05:41:20 AM »

I don't have SnBN, so I'm not familiar with the instructions your referring to, but I know the technique. Basically, you'll find your row and stitch gauge, then multiply the row and stitch counts in the pattern to suit your gauge. Am I right?

Because you're using a finer yarn, it will by its very nature probably have a bit more drape, because it will produce a thinner fabric.

Your gauge swatch  should have all of the characteristics that you want the fabric of the finished garment to have. So knit it on needles that work well for that yarn and do the calculations based on that.

As for the smaller needles, just use needles a couple of sizes down from the ones you decide you want to use for te rest of the project.. That's how it usually goes.

See if you find this page more helpful than the book:

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