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Topic: Wedding Dress fabric dilemma!  (Read 468 times)
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zebraxcupcakes
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« on: July 05, 2013 12:01:32 AM »

Hello Craftsters! This is my first official post, but I have long admired and enjoyed the many posts, especially in the clothing category.

So, in roughly a year, namely: September, 2014, I'm getting married!
That obviously isn't my problem. :p

I have long searched for a dress that was very -me- and never really found one. And since I wear such an obnoxiously sized bra, formal wear and I have never seen eye to eye. It's not that I don't love it, it's just that no one make clothes for tiny-waisted-huge-breasted-large-hipped ladies.

So of course a few problems arise in that area. So I decided to make my own dress, or rather, my bestie's mom and I will work on it together. She's a pro when it comes to the cutting and pinning and tailoring, so I know she'll do a great job, but I have other worries.

1. I can't seem to find any reviews on the pattern that I love.
2. The top of said pattern, is really, REALLY unflattering, so that'll have to go.
3. I am on a bit of a budget, nothing really to worry about though.
4. I can't seem to find a fabric in the right texture to hold up a court-length train.
5. I'm getting married in GOLD.

Yep. That's right. My gorgeous groom picked the colors red and gold. I like these colors, and frankly, white makes me look like I'm going to cough up a lung, but finding a gold in a pretty shade AND the right fabric?! Oof.

Anyway, back to the pattern. I fell in love with the skirt of Burda 7251. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7355-burda-style-wedding-dress.aspx#t-1

The top though, ehh, not so much. Like I said before, there's no way those scallops and upside-down pleats will look good on me.

So, down to the deets.

This pattern wants 12.5yds of fabric, no problem, but it suggests duchesse or satin. I have yet to find a duchesse that I like, and I worry that the satins I have found aren't going to be sturdy enough. I mean yes, there is a crinoline underneath, but can these gorgeous charmeuses or stretch satins hold that shape?

of course, I fell in love with the color of this habutae, which is apparently a lining, so that probably won't work.
http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/habutae-fabric/habutae-wheat-fabric-.htm

and then I found this slightly-too-yellow charmeuse, but that's probably just as bad.
http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/charmeuse-fabric/stretch-charmeuse-khaki-fabric-.htm

and the I wandered over to another site and found this stretch satin.
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-bridal-fabric-bridal-fabric-by-color-bridal-fabric-shades-of-gold-tahari-stretch-satin-dark-gold.aspx

Any of them would be really pretty, and I think flattering against my mocha-skin tone.

Onwards on my rambling I suppose.
I think with an iron-in interfacing, and possibly a hefty liner, I could make a corset top for this, and just stitch the skirt onto the lining of the top. My bridesmaids, who will be wearing red, will likely be in corset-tops and knee-length circle skirts, likely with a petticoat Grin

I have a pattern I drafted and made out of muslin for a perfectly tailored corset on my own dimensions, so I don't really worry about that part as much as whether or not the fabric can handle it.

So yeah, in summary, will any of these fabrics stand up to the task; should I even be worried about it? I know taffeta would be ideal in the end, but I hate the texture of taffeta and my groom isn't fond of it either. Can I pull this off if I line it with something thicker like muslin? I don't really care what the inside looks like as long as the outside looks good and it fits right.

(And as far as a crinoline, I have one I gutted from a wedding dress for a princess costume, I was planning on getting some more netting and poofing it out in the right shape.)

Thanks so much for any comments and criticism. I really want this dress to be spectacular, for the sake of the dress, but really, as long as I'm married at the end of the day, I won't cry if I have to tone it down a bit Grin
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Sew til i break all the needles,
Crochet til i break all my fingers,
Love you til you break all my heart <3
Alexus1325
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2013 10:01:23 AM »

I can't really help with fabric choice as I don't know much about fancy formalwear fabrics. However, I was right into Victorian costuming for a while and smothered my brain with all the research I could find. That said, I don't like the trained insert that simply fastens at the front waist. If I were making this, I'd mod it into a full underskirt, perhaps with a much lighter-weight fabric for the unseen front portion. That would be much more comfortable for hours on end, and less likely to shift around on you. You'd just have to make sure that the fullness of the underskirt is consistent with the fullness of the main dress, so that the petticoats can still do their job.

Hmmm, ok, looking at the fabrics, what about a crepe backed satin? I used it only once, in polyester, and it was obnoxiously slidey during cutting and pinning, but structurally it made a gorgeous firm fabric when interlined with 50/50 cotton-poly broadcloth with a nylon lining. It was white satin, so I backed it with grey to mute the colour a bit, and to prevent the scarlet red lining from showing through. I think with a white interlining, you would have still seen the red.

I hope that helps a little. I know there's a few members who have scads of experience with such stuffs, so hopefully one of them will pop in with more empirically based advice Tongue
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zebraxcupcakes
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« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2013 01:57:53 PM »

Thanks for your reply! And yes, I definitely plan to integrate the skirt into the top, I found a corset top that my bridesmaids and I all love, and it would be very easy to stitch the skirt to the lining!

I am planning to order swatches of the fabrics I like, and will be creating mini-mockups to see how they handle boning. However, upon further research, I have decided to make the boning internal so you can't see it from the outside like a traditional corset. I think that way It won't have as much stress over the seams, and it will lay more flat.

I also planned to do boning over just the armpits and waist area, avoiding over the breast for several reasons:

I wear a VERY rare size, and will probably want to wear some sort of fun underthings for my wedding night Grin
Also, having worn a top like that, the boning below the breast has to bend in a way that irritates my ribs. So I'll probably make a bustier type internal corset and lay the external fabric over it.
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Sew til i break all the needles,
Crochet til i break all my fingers,
Love you til you break all my heart <3
AlenaSelene
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2013 01:56:27 PM »

Well the pattern envelope suggest duchess satin, so I think any medium weight fabric with a slightly soft hand would work.

If the fabric you choose is too soft and drapey you can add stiffness with interfacing or interlining. A layer of plain cotton underneath a too soft satin will add crispness to the fabric and make the dress more comfortable to wear.

Satin or sateen fabrics will be shiny and maybe really slippery! Georgettes and crepes will not be shiny and not too slippery.

Layering a sheer fabric over another fabric can make some fantastic effects, such as sheer red chiffon over a gold satin, crepe or metallic lame.

I am picturing this skirt with a corset top in cherry red and metallic gold brocade and red velvet bows! A rayon brocade might need a cotton underlining

My favorite on line fabric shop is http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/  but they may or may not have exactly what you are looking for

This shop specializes in bridal fabrics and says they ship world wide, I have not bought from them
http://www.tessuti-shop.com/search?q=satin
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