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Topic: This weeks milk soaps  (Read 2080 times)
Tags for this thread: craftster_best_of_2013 , milk_soap , cold_process_soap , swirled_soap  Add new tag
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mullerslanefarm
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« on: April 04, 2013 03:59:15 PM »

Finally forced myself away from the spinning wheel to make soap this week.  Monday was preparing a 55 lb of master batch.  Only got 3 batches made on Tuesday when I realized I was out of lye.  Lye was delivered last night, so more soaping today.

All of these are Jersey milk soaps

OMH (unscented) toasted oats, honey from our hives



Cotton Blossom (TD & silver mica swirl)



Lily of the Woods (lavender, patchouli with touch of lily of the valley)



New to me EO blend.  Rosemary, sweet orange & tea tree (no colorants)



EucaMint



Citrus Basil



Lemongrass & Sage



Last of this particular EO blend




Back to the spinning wheel I go!
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Cyndi

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« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2013 04:20:40 PM »

do you add titanium whatever (sorry, can't remember the name of the white) to make your soap white? or is it just white solid fats?
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« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2013 05:57:49 PM »

The only time I use Titanium Dioxide (TD) is for my Cotton Blossom soap, and that is just for the swirl.

The unscented OMH is off color because I toast the oatmeal and use raw honey.

The Cotton Blossom FO doesn't discolor, so the part that isn't swirled with the TD is the 'normal' color of my milk soaps.

The Lily of the Wood uses patchouli, which adds a bit of tan to the soap.  The upper right portion of the picture is gelling Smiley

The Rosemary, sweet orange & tea tree has taken on a yellow because of the sweet orange 5x EO

The EucaMint is a very accurate color of my finished soap, ready to unmold.

The Citrus Basil has been colored with Green oxide and swirled with a combo of FD&C yellow dye and pink clay.

The Lemongrass & Sage is slightly yellow because of the lemongrass EO used

The un-named soap has patchouli & sweet orange in the EO mix, (and is in partial gel), so it gets discolored.

My milk soap would even be a lighter shade if I didn't insist on gelling it.  The only liquid I use for my lye solution is 100% Jersey milk that has been frozen and chunked up prior to 'dumping' the lye into it.  Yes, I DUMP my lye into the frozen milk.  The trick is having your oils ready and waiting and getting your lye dissolved and incorporated into the oils before the milk/lye solution turns color.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2013 05:59:42 PM by mullerslanefarm » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2013 08:02:33 AM »

thanks for the rundown! I find most of my soaps end up yellowish - because of my oils. I rendered about ten pounds of beef/pork fat I got from the local butcher, and it's amazingly white - although my family did NOT appreciate the 'meat smell' in the house.

and to clarify - you toast oatmeal and then grind it, then add it to your soap?
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« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2013 09:19:11 AM »

Actually, I use oatmeal baby cereal and toast that.

Lard and tallow in soaps are the Best!
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« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2013 12:50:09 PM »

huh - i think i'll try the oatmeal baby cereal in my next batch.
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« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2013 07:29:42 PM »

These are all soooo pretty. I love, love LOVE your swirls. I love swirls, lol. Big chance. Couple months ago I was like, "swirls, meh."  Cheesy
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« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2013 02:37:49 PM »

Holy soap, Batman! I'm loving the colors, the swirls, & the descriptions! You even keep bees on the farm? Would you mind sharing where you get your molds? They look much easier to manage than the upcycled shoe boxes & pringles cans that I use! LOL!  Wink
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mullerslanefarm
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« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2013 10:20:50 PM »

Yup, bees, a couple hogs, couple steers, various poultry (meat chickens, egg laying chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese, guinea fowl, pea fowl, pigeons), horses, dogs & cats ... besides berry bushes, fruit trees, grape vines, herb & vegetable gardens.

These molds are hands down the Best!  I bought my first 30-bar mold from Rita & Max almost 14 years ago.  I've acquired a couple more 30-bar and 42-bar molds through garage sales.  They are hard to come by 2nd hand. This mold is the original divider mold. I've seen others that try to replicate these, but the plastic is usually thinner and warps easily and/or the sides do not have grooves to slip the dividers into.

Besides the dividers, there are only 2 main pieces to the mold; the bottom and the sides.  I use a plastic garbage bag on the bottom of the mold and snap the sides into the groove routered on the bottom of the mold to make unmolding easier.  After pouring the soap into the molds (and swirling if you want), the dividers slip into grooves routered on the side pieces.  The dividers interlock ensuring nice even soaps.

I also sell soap logs ... for these I use a 4-chamber vertical log mold so I can make a 4 lb log of soap just as easily as I can make a 1 lb log.

My favorite way of cutting Pringle soaps is not the usual puck style.  Place the soap on end and cut the soap in half the total length of the pillar.  Next, cut the two halves into about 3" lengths.  These half moon soaps fit real nice in your hand.

ETA:
 
Sheesh, I just took a look at these two sites .... oh boy have the prices gone up since I bought them!!
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013 10:25:23 PM by mullerslanefarm » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2013 10:29:58 PM »

huh - i think i'll try the oatmeal baby cereal in my next batch.

I use about 2 teaspoons oatmeal baby cereal ppo (per pound oil).  If I am adding this to a soap that is NOT OMH, I do NOT toast the oatmeal, rather I put my oatmeal in the container in which I will weigh my essential oils.  Tare the container and weigh my EO right into the oatmeal.  This really helps the EO to stick and the oatmeal gives a nice silky feel to the soaps.

Before I started making milk soaps exclusively, I would use collodial oatmeal in each of my non-milk soaps. (I had a 'milk' line and an 'oatmeal' line.  It was then that I realized that collodial oatmeal looked almost exactly like oatmeal baby cereal.
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