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Topic: Altering dress/shirt patterns for small chest  (Read 899 times)
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dustyfro
« on: February 23, 2013 12:45:11 PM »

If I'm being honest with myself, I would say that I'm an AA cup, and I'm ok with that.  With my store bought shirts, I wear a padded bra to fill them out, but I'm about to make a dress of my own, and I just want it to fit perfectly without having to stuff.  Last year, I bought a dress from a thrift store that was the perfect size, the first strapless dress I've ever had that actually stayed up.  Thinking about it makes me want to cry a little :p The best part about it is that I don't have to wear a bra. 

I have some fabric... well, an outer space bedsheet, actually that I want to turn into a similar dress.  I'm afraid that if I buy a pattern, it won't fit me in the chest and my amazing dress will fall off.  So how do I approach the sewing process to make sure it fits nice and snug?  The original dress has princess seams with flexible boning in the bodice, a zipper up the back, and is lined enough that my nips don't show.  What is a good lining material for the inside of a cotton shell?

Mostly, I'm super nervous because it's been a long time since I sewed a fitted garment for myself, and I'll be doing it without my mommy. :p
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dustyfro
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2013 01:18:19 PM »

Alternately, does anyone have tips on adding lacing to the back or sides to pull it tight if the pattern turns out a little loose?
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Once you can accept the universe as being something expanding into an infinite nothing which is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. Albert Einstein
Psycho_Bitch
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2013 02:08:50 PM »

I think this tutorial can be very usefull, even if you only use it for the bodice, it's also for a dress with princess seams. I just found out most of the pics on there don't work anymore. You'll draft the pattern to your own size and you can add boning at the seams.
It might be best to make a mock-up out of other fabric first. If you don't want to do that, make the seam allowances bigger so you can make the dress bigger if you have to.
I'm not sure about the lining.
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Mamacantsew
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2013 11:48:49 AM »

Have you tried a "small bust adjustment" for your pattern pieces, like on this website?

http://smoonbeam.blogspot.ca/2012/09/small-bust-adjustment-tutorial-part-1.html

It's the same technique that's found in the Perfect Fit book. I've tried it on a muslin for a vintage dress I'm making and it works great. I'm something like a 32B, after nursing for almost two years and not being well-endowed to begin with. Most vintage patterns are meant for more curvaceous figures (and those silly bullet bras!) so a SBA is a must for me!

You just need to redraw your pattern pieces onto some paper that you'll feel comfortable cutting up and taping back up later (I am slowly collecting vintage patterns that I want to preserve at all costs!). And of course, you need to make a muslin to make sure it all fits. I'd rather take the time to make the muslin than have to purchase more fabric later on!
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dustyfro
« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2013 09:39:52 PM »

Oh!  Thanks so much!  I think that small-bust-adjustment site will be just what I need, plus the rest of her tutorials and things are AWESOME.
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Book reviews and blog:  http://froregon.blogspot.com
wists list: http://www.wists.com/froregon

Once you can accept the universe as being something expanding into an infinite nothing which is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. Albert Einstein
LaLaaLove
« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2013 05:47:54 PM »

Oh, great link, and thank you Dustyfro for bringing up the topic. I'm a 28B and with a 29.5" bust (with a padded push-up), so I'm sure I'll be using the adjustment a lot.

Thanks again!
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