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Topic: A lil help plz: How do I cut my fabric if my center-back is tapered??  (Read 971 times)
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« on: October 15, 2012 01:44:51 PM »

Hello everyone!
K so i have a little problem. I am making a coat with a tapered back. The center- back of my pattern design tapers in 5/8". So the center back is not a completely straight line rather it tapers inward starting at 4 inches below the neckline down to the hem.
When I pin it to the fabric so that it keeps that taper, the rest of my pattern gets bulky and wont pin down smoothly to my fabric because of the missing 5/8" due to the tapering. Can anyone give me a few pointers for how to pin and cut my fabric when my back is not completely straight and i have to cut on fold? Btw I do not have side seams on this jacket because of the design of it. It's a one piece jacket with no side seams.
thanks everyone!
« Last Edit: October 15, 2012 01:46:55 PM by Mvogue » THIS ROCKS   Logged


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« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2012 05:01:41 PM »

is the entire back seam to be cut on a fold or just part of it?  I am confused as as far as I knew you typically only place straight lines on a fold. 

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« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2012 07:11:42 PM »

only straight lines are cut on the fold, it if is nipped in at the waist you either need a center back seam or you will need to cut it on the fold and add darts to the waistline for shaping.
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2012 12:25:51 PM »

I don't exactly understand what you're trying to do, either.  I can envision three possibilities:

1) The center back line is tapered, but it's still a straight line, to be cut on the fold.  In this case, you would line it up completely along the fold, and it's not supposed to necessarily be quite on-grain.

2) The center back line is not a completely straight line, in which case it's not physically possible to line it up (or at least, not all of it) along the fold.

3) The center back should be a straight line along the grain, but then the back of the jacket is tapered by sewing in a dart after cutting.

If there's another option, I'm not envisioning it, so I'm not sure how to help. ??

« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2012 12:49:06 PM »

I think I may be able to clarify the issue.  It seems to me the fold is placed where side seams would normally go, and the back is tapered for a fitted look. The easiest way for me to handle this would be to cut the piece in a straight line but mark the where the pattern originally wanted you to cut; use this as your guideline when stitching.  Straight lines are easier to pin together and sew, then you can just trim the excess fabric after stitching.

I hope that helps. Smiley

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« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2013 01:34:12 PM »

Why do you have to cut on fold?

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