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Topic: DIY : Molds for prosthetics & Recipe for Prosthetic Gelatin! (pic heavy & scary)  (Read 19282 times)
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Lippsstix
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« on: September 12, 2012 11:14:12 AM »

Hello again everyone - this is a follow up tutorial for my Zombie makeup tutorial . http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=320857.0

I wanted to do an update and give you some more ideas to create scary zombies for your next Halloween event ! This tutorial can help you create any type of prosthetic uses for: face, arm, hands, feet, legs, etc. This project will range in the $30 price range. (but the left over of your materials can create many additional molds depending on the sizes!)


How to create your own prosthetic molds !!!


Materials List:
1. DAP Plaster of Paris ( at any home improvement store) $7.00
2. Oil based clay - sulfur free  (I use Natural Plastalina Modeling Clay ) which I get at http://www.brickintheyard.com/ ($3.00/ lb.)
      you can pick up oil based clay at your local arts and craft supply store .
3. Vaseline ($1)
4. Sculpting tools ($5-10 - I already own these but you can also use items you find around your home - spatula,straws, toothpick, etc.)
5. Chip brushes 4 ($ .50-$1/each)
6. Plastic Solo Cup or mixing container (free or up to $1)
7. Wood board to work on - and cover work station in plastic sheeting -maybe some for yourself ! You may get dirty !!! ($5)
8. (OPTIONAL: depending on what you are trying to build - use pre-made/ store bought prosthetic head, custom head cast, arm cast, leg cast ,etc. to sculpt on top of !! (maybe I'll do a tutorial on making head cast / leg cast, etc. if enough people are interested !)

Step 1
 Prep your work station - apply plastic sheeting to a piece of wood.
Place your clay down in center of board (In this tutorial I will be using an old beauty school head !)
So I will place my head cast in center of board to work on .

 Step 2
Begin sculpting clay into whatever desired shape you want ( here I am sculpting a torn away face/ mouth piece) Oil based clay does not dry out so I can leave it exposed !



Step 3
 After sculpting, I use a chip brush and cotton swab to apply vaseline around entire clay piece and carefully on top of sculpted piece. ( this is your mold release - no vaseline - use a personal lubricant (like KY) this works also.




Step 4
~Mix plaster and water together in a plastic container (large solo cup works well) pour water into cup up to second line (line 2nd closest to bottom of cup) approx. 5 oz.
~Pour plaster slowly into cup until the water disappears and the plaster forms what looks like a island. Mix together with chip brush. (Make sure the consistency is very thick - brownie batter) Otherwise the plaster will fall off your mold- if you are struggling you can use clay to create a barrier around the sculpted area (where I've placed the blue painters tape) to prevent spillage !




Step 5
Using a chip brush, apply plaster on top of sculpted clay .



Step 6
Let the plaster dry - approx 1 hour -6 hours (more time for larger plaster areas)

Step 7
Carefully remove the plaster from clay sculpt. Wiggling the mold in many directions helps release mold.

Step 8
Carefully clean out any bits of clay stuck in your new mold - use 99% alcohol to help loosen/dissolve clay and clean mold with a toothpick.


Step 9
Ready for use !!!  Grin
You can pour latex, gelatin,or skin-safe/ready silicone right into the mold !


PROSTHETIC GELATIN RECIPE

4tbsp - Glycerine (find in first aid section)
4tbsp- Knox Unflavored Gelatin (about 4 pkgs.) - find in the same section as jello.
4tbsp - water

*4 drops - green food color * 2 drops - yellow food color (creepy zombie skin color)
*5 drops- red food coloring *2 drops -blue food coloring (to create bloody color)

Put into microwavable safe container (glass bowl) - heat in intervals of 7 seconds until all contents are melted and then mix with a Popsicle stick.

BE CAREFUL - IT WILL BE HOT !!!! Please let cool down and test before applying to bare skin.


Using popsicle stick spread into any mold -place in fridge and let set up in minutes!



This gel can be dissolved in hot water to remove (especially for hair) or to reactivate. Apply to skin with hot water or heated gelatin, spirit gum, latex, etc.

Don't forget to powder both sides of gelatin or latex ( they will be sticky and stick to themselves and you will have to start over  Cry .... latex throw out but you can reuse the gelatin - just throw back into microwave)



Gelatin is an animal by-product it does need to be refrigerated if you want to save some for later !!! I pour the remainder of the gel into a cheap ice cube tray and leave in fridge! Plus, it makes for great size for storage!


My Original design for our "Homage to Thriller Photoshoot"



My final look!


Final Cast Shot !
« Last Edit: September 12, 2012 12:44:45 PM by Lippsstix » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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chickybiker
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2012 04:24:34 PM »


This is fascinating.  I am missing some ingredients, but if I manage to get hold of them, I'm definitely having a go.  Smiley

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Lippsstix
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« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2012 12:07:51 PM »

Wonderful! That's great to hear !!! If you have any questions , feel free to ask !
xoxo Lippsstix
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Alexus1325
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2012 10:09:47 AM »

I was wondering how sturdy a gelatin based prosthetic is and how long a "cured" piece lasts. Specifically, I want to sculpt a small unicorn horn and I'd like to wear it several times throughout the week of Halloween. Would I have to put some batting in it to keep it's shape? Would it be better to re-cast a horn for each wearing? What kind of paints should I use on it?

Sorry for the slew of questions, but this would be a better option for me than having to order latex online. I can get everything in your recipe locally. Thanks for posting this Cheesy
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2012 11:05:17 AM »

thank you for posting this great tutorial!  I've been watching the SyFy "Face Off" series on tv and have become fascinated with the construction of makeup prosthetics....
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Lippsstix
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« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2012 06:44:54 PM »

I was wondering how sturdy a gelatin based prosthetic is and how long a "cured" piece lasts. Specifically, I want to sculpt a small unicorn horn and I'd like to wear it several times throughout the week of Halloween. Would I have to put some batting in it to keep it's shape? Would it be better to re-cast a horn for each wearing? What kind of paints should I use on it?

Sorry for the slew of questions, but this would be a better option for me than having to order latex online. I can get everything in your recipe locally. Thanks for posting this Cheesy

I love questions !!!

1. gelatin is really quite sturdy the thicker the piece is. ( this is not a ballistics gel which is super dense) but is thicker and sturdier than jell-o. I would suggest maybe creating a wire structure (batting may work) to hold up the integrity of the shape if intending the horn to big large, bulky, or long.

2. Once the gelatin has setup "cured" it has a long shelf life - i reused my zipperface prosthetic for 5 different parties ! However, 1-2 weeks is a good indication for it's shelf-life (once it has made contact with your skin it can begin absorbing bacteria from your skin.) any left overs you can remelt & pour into an ice cube tray and place in ziplock bag and will hold up for 1 year in a closed container.

3.Paints - this is the fun part - you can use close to anything !
~You can pre-paint it = food coloring, eyeshadow pigments, scrapings from lipstick, (latex paint can be used but this is will make the gel become opaque! see below*) - test a small batch to achieve desired colors.
~Painting after cure = you can use any type of rubber grease makeup paint (just make sure to powder to prevent smudging) or pre-paint with latex paints ( if you choose to color after curing - you can not reuse this gelatin - it must be thrown out !

( which option is best for you ??)
 pre-painting = translucent, more realistic skin looking
after curing = opaque*, best for horns, teeth, any other non-skin items needed)

You are welcome ! Thanks for checking it out !!
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Alexus1325
« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2012 07:49:46 AM »

Your superhero name is now Super-Fantastic-Awesome Woman. That is just bloody fantastic. Latex "pre-painting" it is!

*EDIT* Because of your munificence in sharing this on Craftster, I went looking for related resources. I found some cool stuff!!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/?ALLSTEPS
http://www.zombiemaker.com/ingredients/gelatine_base/
and a book excerpt

WHY DIDN'T I KNOW ABOUT THIS BEFORE?!?!?!

I am going to the grocer tomorrow for supplies...
« Last Edit: October 01, 2012 01:20:33 PM by Alexus1325 » THIS ROCKS   Logged

floralandskulls
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2012 04:25:04 AM »

This is fantastic! I was wondering if I'd be able to use air-dry clay instead of oil based clay to create my wounds though? I'm thinking of creating them on a flat surface and then creating plaster casts to use with gelatine. I can't find any oil based clay near me but i have tons of air dry clay!
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Lippsstix
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« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2012 02:43:03 PM »

This is fantastic! I was wondering if I'd be able to use air-dry clay instead of oil based clay to create my wounds though? I'm thinking of creating them on a flat surface and then creating plaster casts to use with gelatine. I can't find any oil based clay near me but i have tons of air dry clay!
if the air dry clay is water-based yes - if it (lets say - crayola's model magic - will not work)
but water based clay will work but you have to work in a shorter amount of time ! here is an example i got off line - check it out
" Read more: What Kind of Modeling Clay to Use for Halloween Prosthetic? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/info_8505504_kind-clay-use-halloween-prosthetic.html#ixzz29mdxPsNe

"Water-based clay is a fairly familiar product. Most people have played with it in school, and it is available in art stores, craft stores and even in the craft sections of some general superstores. You can form this clay into a shape quickly, but it can be somewhat difficult to add fine detail into because of its softness. Water-based clay dries out with exposure to air, so it must periodically be sprayed with water. It also must be wrapped in wet paper towels and placed in a plastic bag while not being used.

Oil-Based Clay
Oil-based clay comes in a wide variety of colors and consistencies. The largest benefit to oil-based clay is that it does not dry out, allowing you to take more time with your sculpting without having to regularly wet it. It can also be softened and melted by heating it, allowing you to quickly create a rough form, then add finer details once the clay has cooled and hardened. Oil-based clay can be reused again and again, allowing you to create many prosthetics with a single batch of clay."



Hope this helps !!!
xoxo lipps
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SoCoSEW
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2012 09:01:21 AM »

Great info!  Seems I also can get the costume sewed up and out the door but not really complete w/o face done up!  I will devour this! Thank you.
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