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Topic: Dramatic drops  (Read 2989 times)
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CrazyEyeGlass
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« Reply #10 on: November 26, 2012 02:27:51 PM »

@GlassKicker: no problem with sharing! (see below) *
@speedingpullet: definitely try again! But note that you need to have thick enough glass for a successful slump (see below) **

BTW, this is the lap grinder that I have: http://www.delphiglass.com/cold-working-tools/grinders-polishers/crystalmaster-pro-12-lap-grinder-kit

*Polishing on a lap grinder:
  • You might want to put a duct tape "handle" on the glass before you start grinding. Glass gets mighty slick when wet and you wouldn't want the grinder to fling your beautiful glass out of your hands! Oh, prepare to get wet, too.  Smiley
  • Start with the 120 grit for the coarsest grind, keeping in mind that this grit can take a lot of glass off. Hold the glass firmly against the disc moving back and forth across the surface of the disc. Just try to get a nice even surface in case the tile saw left bumps.
  • Move to the 400 grit, holding the glass firmly against the disc until an evenly distributed grind is achieved.
  • Move to the 600 grit. In my case the manufacturer specifies that no water should be used for this stage. Keep at it until there are no deep scratches and the surface is evenly ground.
  • Move to the Polypad + Cerium Oxide stage. Mix some cerium oxide up in a bottle with enough water to achieve a buttermilk-like consistency (thick, but pourable). Wet the polypad until soaking. Turn off the water. Pour some of the cerium oxide on the wet pad in a zig zag pattern. Turn the lap grinder on and start polishing. You may have to stay on this stage for a while to achieve a high polish, stopping occasionally to rewet the polypad if necessary.
  • If there are still visible scratches or grooves, move back to the 400 or 600 stage (depending on how deep the scratches are), and progress through the stages again.
  • Once you are finished with your polishing, you may have sharp edges. These can be "seamed off" with a wet belt sander or grinder.

You'll need to practice your cold working skills a lot to get good at this, but the results are worth it!

**Drop mold tips:
  • The pieces shown are made with three to four layers of 3mm glass, so that's a total of 9-12mm or up to 1/2".
  • Schedule for full fusing:
    300dph -> 1225 F hold 45 min
    600dph -> 1500 F hold 10 min
    full/afap -> 960 F hold 2 hours
    100dph -> 800 F no hold
    180dph -> 700 F off
  • Drop schedule for 7.25" bowl:
    250dph -> 1300 F hold up to 3 hours (visually confirm slump)
    full/afap -> 960 F hold 2 hours
    100dph -> 800 F no hold
    180dph -> 700 F off
  • Drop schedule for 10.75" bowl:
    200dph -> 1250 F hold up to 3 hours (visually confirm slump)
    full/afap -> 960 F hold 3 hours
    45dph -> 800 F no hold
    80dph -> 700 F no hold
    270dph -> 200 F off
  • Note that the color and opacity of your glass will affect how quickly and/or evenly your piece slumps. Black will absorb heat and slump dramatically faster than white will.

Hope this helps!
Enjoy!
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GlassKicker
« Reply #11 on: November 26, 2012 06:08:26 PM »

CrazyEyeGlass - I appreciate your willingness to share your experience!  Thank you.  Jealous of that grinder model!  I have a little 8" Inland Swap Top hobby model.  It's not a true 8" though, because of the way the laps mount  - there is a shaft in the center, rather than the traditional magnetic disks you see on sturdier models.  I haven't ventured into the polish stages with it, but just might give it a try after seeing your results!  I'm hoping to upgrade to something similar to your modle after the Glass Expo in Vegas next April.

You stated that you are using three to four layers of 3mm glass - can I assume that your blanks are being dammed during the full fuse?  Also, your schedules are similar to mine, but a smidge different - are you using Bullseye 90, Spectrum 96, or?Huh

Thanks,

~ Tracy
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CrazyEyeGlass
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« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2012 06:29:39 PM »

@GlassKicker: I used fiber paper (the thick stuff, not thin fire) around the edge of the glass, with some dams. (At least I think I did, my memory is a little fuzzy since that was last February.) And I use Bullseye 90. I always anneal at 960 F, though Bullseye's schedules now show annealing at 900 F.
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GlassKicker
« Reply #13 on: November 27, 2012 12:50:23 PM »

Thanks, CrazyEye!  Much appreciated.
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Tropicbird
« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2013 06:34:12 PM »

Oh my goodness, Crazyeye! You've reached another high level of expertise and beautiful artwork! These are absolutely stunning. I never realized that glass could be so gorgeous. Seeing your pieces really tempts me to become an avid collector, but I'm afraid that in my hands "dramatic drops" goes with the undesirable verb of "smashing", not the complimentary adjective of "smashing" that describes your beautiful artistry.  Smiley Just love it.
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sweets4ever
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« Reply #15 on: January 14, 2013 08:57:40 AM »

Congrats!!

You're a Craftster Best of 2012 Winner!

Craftster Best of 2012 Winner

Feel free to use this badge as your avatar!
If you'd like to use it as a badge on your personal website or blog, you can grab the full code at the bottom of this page.
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CrazyEyeGlass
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« Reply #16 on: January 14, 2013 01:51:13 PM »

OMG! Thank you!
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sweets4ever
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« Reply #17 on: January 15, 2013 06:17:48 AM »

Thank YOU!  They are such gorgeous pieces.
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