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Topic: Best Place to put Gussets in Bodice of These Dresses?  (Read 2941 times)
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katsrevenge
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« on: February 02, 2012 06:13:02 AM »

To start off, I am a fat hourglass shape. (53-44-52) I try to dress to play up my assets...and down play the size.

I have two dresses. One.. I am about to take it apart and use it as a pattern. It's too worn out to even be a scrub the bathroom dress. But the bust fits oddly. It is a sort of shift dress.

The second is a sun dress. I'm taking about six inches off the hem to make it a wearable length. But.. it flattens my girls.
These photos were taken of me wearing a sports bra. I generally wear more omph! type bras.. but they don't fit well under these. How to best fix this?

This is the shift. (please ignore the stained fabric... like I said retired to be a pattern!)

Am I right in thinking that If I put on an awesome bra and measure myself properly (top to under bust) and then make the breast part that size instead of the size it has it will fit correctly? Or is there a better way?

Second dress:


This was a lot too long so I have a six inch long strip that is about my height to play with. I'm thinking football shaped gussets in the front.. or something?

It's too tight and uncomfortable JUST at the bust.

This is not how a dress should fit me.

Any help, suggests or whatever are all welcome.
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alwaysinmyroom
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« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2012 12:54:27 PM »

On the brown dress/top, it looks like you could use some shirring/gathers UNDERNEATH and not just in the center...it will round out the cups of the dress and hold the girls in place and give them more room...I would also lengthen that portion about two inches so they fall UNDER your boobs and not where they currently are...a dart from under your arm to the fullest part of your boob pointing downward would also give you awesome shaping...if you got 'em, flaunt them! Cheesy  You might want to use the dress as a pattern on paper or old sheets first, test the fit and how it looks...I am constantly pinning paper to myself to get the right fit (isn't that why we sew?) Cheesy

On the striped on --how about cutting out a "V" in the center of the bust, inserting a nice colorful fabric...it would put the attention in a better place and the focus would be on your face and bust while releasing the girls from their tight fit! Cheesy...you could even take that "V" down to about your belly button...it would almost make it nautical, which is big this year!  Add some cute buttons on the straps or along the "V"...

Good luck and have fun reconning your clothing to make them the best they can be for you!
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katsrevenge
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2012 02:32:04 AM »

As for the first one.. I asked somewhere else and was given this diagram.


The lady's belief is that the gather is a gusset. When I take it apart I will get the black shape (red line is where the gather is). So, using measurements and muslins I add some to each side (the grey)..using darts (those triangles) to take in the extra at each seam, seeing as the rest of the dress fits great. I think this is what I will do. It will change the look.. but in a good way!

As for stripey... I love your idea. Maybe not that far down.. but perhaps to the center of the bust panel? I know I'll have to move the straps no matter what is done though.

I love sewing.. but most of what I do is reshaping clothes as everything just fits/looks better afterwards... and the clothing makers seem to think fat hourglasses do not exist. It's all tiny or tents. :/
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2012 04:04:28 AM »

I was going to suggest adding a V panel into the bodice of the striped dress too but I was going to suggest using your cut-off piece with the stripes running in the opposite  direction & maybe add a veritcal striped trim at the dropped waist just to tie it in.

You'll get a better idea of what to adjust on the brown one when you  release the centre front gathers.
I love this kind of dress but hate the fact the manufactures don't allow extra depth to the bigger bust sizes  Huh  Don't they realise we're not just bigger around?! 
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alwaysinmyroom
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2012 06:34:53 AM »

Oh yes---your drawing shows all the places for adjustments: longer, more room on the sides, flattering gathers or darts for the girls --I think you are on the right track!

I love the idea of reversing the stripes down the "V"...that would be cute!

I can't wait to see what you do!
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Honeythief
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2012 01:09:06 AM »

As for the first one.. I asked somewhere else and was given this diagram.

Are you enlarging the pattern to the grey line on the left and right? If so, that will make the neckline wider and push the shoulder straps further apart, and enlarge the armholes. If that's what you want and need, great, but if not you'll constantly be shoving those straps back onto your shoulders and wondering why everybody can see your bra under your armpit!

In addition, if you add those darts to the side seam without adding length to the front pattern piece, you'll find that your front side seam is suddenly too short and won't match the back side seam. The new dart at the bottom of the front pattern piece will also make the waist smaller, so if you haven't compensated for that (by adding width somewhere else) the front will be too tight around your middle. Releasing the original gathers may give you enough space, but make sure to measure the finished seam line with the dart folded before you cut your fabric. Ask me how I know this is important  Wink

You need to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to make room for your boobs without making everything else hang like a sack. I'm busty too and I know what it's like to suddenly lose my waist because everything is cut for my widest part. An FBA will add room for your bust and tummy without enlarging the shoulders, armpits, neckline, or side seam length. Google FBA and learn how to do it properly -- you'll never look back. If you are not confident in finding the right option for you, head on over to Pattern Review and ask the folks there, as they are very helpful indeed. Here is a great thread of FBA resources for you to start with:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/9531

And yes, you should wear a properly fitting and supportive bra both while you're adjusting your pattern and while you wear your clothing. Don't wear a good bra to measure and then a poor bra to wear, or vice versa, because you'll be wasting your time doing proper adjustments and you won't be showing off your figure in its best light. Good luck!
« Last Edit: February 05, 2012 01:19:16 AM by Honeythief » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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katsrevenge
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« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2012 08:28:22 PM »

Honeythief, the gussets were to bring the bust piece back into line with the rest of the pieces.
It actually turned out very well in my practice dress (That I will not be showing since the fabric makes my big butt look even bigger... and my "let's try making a halter top with built in bra!one!" gives me neck-aches after 2 minutes. So that is a re-do from start.

I did use the basic principle in a remake of a red flower sun dress. It was a sheath thing so I added cups from a hem trim (being short has that advantage..) and a sort of bra in there..UI hate bras in strappy dresses! I will see if I can get my guy to take a picture.

The stripey turned out well. 

What I did was measure from the straps the same distance either way. (I think it was 7 inches...? It's the two lines to either side of the center line) I found the center of that (the middle line) and measured an inch and a half each way and plotted the angles like you see.



The center bit is two pieces of the hem trim sewn together. I added a total of three inches to the bust. I could have added more but I was also adding in a shelf bra. I do have to adjust that.. as I really should have left the center un-attached to the shell. It bunched, as you see.

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alwaysinmyroom
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2012 11:32:10 AM »

oh at least the girls do not seem as squished!  You gave them some room! Smiley

I do like how you did the inset with the stripes...very interesting and flattering
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