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Topic: Aleene's paper glaze  (Read 3123 times)
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the_canadian_lynx
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« on: October 22, 2011 08:22:52 AM »

Hi,

I hope this question isn't redundant, but basically, I am a big fan of altered art jewelry making and recently received some pendant trays that are too small for the pre-made stick on resin or plastic domes I have. Making my own resin/epoxy seems way too intimidating and involves way too much chemistry for me, so I don't want to get into that but I do have some Aleene's paper glaze to use up. Would that be ok for sealing images into the pendant tray? Is there anything I could put/spray on top to make them tougher and more water resistant? (By water resistant, I mean it's possible for me or a recipient to splash a bit of water on them while drinking or washing hands... obviously they're not for wearing in the pool!)

Also, some sites recommend Diamond Glaze as a superior version of Aleene's Paper Glaze for this sort of stuff. Does anyone know if Michael's Ontario stores carry that or would it have to be ordered online?

Thanks in advance!
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Circlesofstone
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2011 12:33:41 PM »

I've used Aleene's paper glaze for sealing my bottlecaps. I don't know how waterproof they are, resin would be best for that. I've heard of people sealing their images with Modge Podge or even clear packing tape before using a glaze.

Here is a picture of one of my bottlecaps where I used the Aleene's paper glaze:




Lisa
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Diane B.
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« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2011 09:25:13 AM »

Diamond Glaze is supposedly better than most of the other "dimensional" white glues, and Diamond Glaze 2or3 is supposedly even better, but none are all that resistant to later scratching and humidity. 
You can put a coat of clear indoor (water-based) gloss polyurethane on top of the dried dimensional glues though to get a much tougher surface...a favorite one for polymer clayers because of all its characteristics is Varathane Diamond indoor gloss. 
You could also use a (thinner) cyanoacrylate floor polish like Mop N Glo or Pledge with Future Shine (but not UV-resistant like that Varathane).

You could also use the polyurethane alone for sealing and thickness, or some of the acrylic mediums and sealers sold at craft and art supply stores or even clear embossing powder melted but none of those will be quite as tough as polyurethane. 

Btw, some of the craft epoxy resins are really easy to use since they're just mixed one to one and will give you a very thick possibly-domed result.  They just need to be mixed thoroughly.**

You can get more info about the various kinds of finishes on this page, if you're interested, including the dimensional glues:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm

And you might want to check out this page at my site to get more info about the possibilities for the kind of thing you're doing:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm
> Epoxy >> Casting >> In Permanent Cells, Bottlecaps, etc
... and maybe also Simulations of Resin

HTH

** http://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091115185640AAXBfZF
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100521191232AACynOx


.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2011 10:56:46 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2011 10:33:03 PM »

I was intimidated by resin too and was using Diamond Glaze for items.  It did the trick, but really was not waterproof, and from what I saw from others, if you're wearing on a humid day, or if you are sweaty, or caught in a rainstorm, it will bleed through and affect the pendent eventually.

Another thing you can try may be the clear embossing powders and lightly melt them over the project with a heat gun.  Do a few layers and you could have a nice effect. 

So I started using the UV set resins like Lisa Pavelka's Magic Glos, which are no mix, and easy to use, setting under a UV light, or bright sunlight in as little as 5 minutes, and domes nicely.  Worked beautifully, and gave a nice domed, had, glossy, smooth, waterproof finish.

My first time using 2 part resin sucked, probably due to a number of factors, but it was a mess to say the least.  Anyways, I gave it a try again a couple of weeks ago, using Casting Craft, or Easy Cast, or whatever it is called in that blue box at most craft/art supply stores.  It is a 1:1 mix of the resin and hardener, and I followed the instructions to a T, doing the double mix, and timing it exactly.  That time, and every time since then it worked like a charm.  I used a lit match to wick away the bubbles, and just left well enough alone afterwards to set.  I have some ICE resin too for more clear jewelry projects in the future, but what I am saying is don't be intimidated by the resin - you may be happier with the end result and how much more durable it is.
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the_canadian_lynx
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2011 10:50:15 AM »

Thanks for all the help/tips, guys. I'm just wondering: which of these possibilities are the most "breathe in-able" and stink-free? I live in a studio apartment in a ridiculously cold climate, so keeping my window open is kind of off the agenda for the next few months. I may have to just cave and order some premade domes in those non-typical sizes...

Lastly, does using multiple layers of Aleene's/Diamond Glaze help at all? The one pendant I made with it seemed fine but I only used it a couple times, so who knows?

Thanks again... I really appreciate the tips and anecdotes about your experiences! Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2011 09:42:44 AM »

The Easy Craft resin that you can get at the craft stores has little to no odor to it. I am pretty sensitive to smells myself but it does not bother me at all.

Regarding the other glazes, I have a few at home and can show pictures of the different ones for you. I just did up a bunch of pendants last night ^.^
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« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2011 04:12:15 PM »

Multiple layers of Diamond Glaze will give you a nice thick finish, but it will still not be water resistant or waterproof - I was able to clean off glass tiles that had things glued on with Diamond Glaze and thick coats of it on the back to pristine cleanliness just by soaking a few minutes in water and rubbing it off with my fingers.
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« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2011 05:36:49 AM »

Here are some comparisons for you. They all look the same to me but I don't think they are water proof.
Glossy Accents. I really like this stuff. One layer in both pics, Sculpey base

Pendents by Lucky XIII, on Flickr


100_8327 by Lucky XIII, on Flickr

These ones were made with the Paper Glaze, one layer. Metal washer base with scrapbook paper on top.

Pendents by Lucky XIII, on Flickr

These are Easy Cast Castin' Craft resin

Resin bangle and pendents by Lucky XIII, on Flickr

I also have the Magic Gloss but have not used it yet. I need to get a UV light since there is no safe place in my room that gets sun and I don't want my cats to get into it while the pieces are curing.

I hope this helps a bit!
« Last Edit: December 13, 2011 05:38:33 AM by vampedangel14 » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Onyxnox
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« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2011 08:19:23 AM »

With Magic Glos, and this is from Lisa Pavelka's lips herself (I was at a couple of her workshops last year), if you get good direct sunlight, you can cure it in that - but not light filtered through a window, take it outside and expose it directly to the UV light from the sun.  If it is direct, strong light, like in the afternoon, in the Summer, it will start to cure within 5 minutes.  When taken out of the light, there is still "shadow curing" where the resin continues to cure even when out of the light.

I have done it very successfully with sunlight, sitting it on a post on my porch, just make sure it is not a windy day where it could flip the project over, or blow dust into it and make sure the surface is nice and level.  I did get a UV light though for doing things in the winter, since the sun is so much weaker then.
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