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Topic: Inserting Gussets into a completed Chemise  (Read 943 times)
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embercostumer
« on: October 20, 2011 12:02:51 AM »

I made a plain white cotton twill undershirt/chemise for my fairy costume for renfair, but the underarms are too tight. It's my own fault for using a mock up that I made years ago as the pattern instead of fitting a new one for my now 6-month-pregnant self.  Who knew that two cup sizes could make such a difference? I COULD wear it off-the-shoulder and that helps a little, but I really don't want to.  I want to make it fit!

The original shirt is from http://www.simplicity.com/p-2231-costumes.aspx pattern

I've done gussets before using http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_goresgussets.htm tutorial, but I've never added them after the fact to a completed garment. Do I just cut out some bias squares and insert them into armpit? Should I deconstruct that entire seam and redo the underarms all together? (I stupidly did beautiful french seams on the entire thing, of course).

I also want it to be MORE gathered along the neckline than it is right now. I'm thinking of cutting a line down the center back and adding another twenty inches or so of fabric. Would that look stupid, or will people probably not even notice since A. I'm wearing something over it and B. it's gathered and C. it's in the back. Huh


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Aislynn
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2011 05:29:16 AM »

Hi!  First, I think you could cut bias squares and insert them, if you can do it neatly.  I know I couldn't and would end up taking apart that entire seam.  But as long as the sleeve and side are sewn as one long continuous seam, that shouldn't be too much of a hassle (not that taking apart French seams is ever fun).  You'll have to take apart at least part of the seam, anyway.

Second, adding fabric to the back will only result in extra gathers in the back.  Do you have the thing that you're wearing over it?  I'd try it all on together, if you do, before fretting about the chemise.  If you're still not happy with it, and as long as the fabric is opaque (sheers won't hide the seams as well), I'd go ahead and split the center front and add a panel.  The gathers will help hide the seams, so it shouldn't be too noticeable.
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embercostumer
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2011 12:36:13 PM »

Thanks for the input--also, I tracked down your faerie wings cellophane tutorial and am planning on doing that this week too. Smiley It looks like fun!
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Aislynn
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2011 12:50:03 PM »

Awesome!  You can PM me if you have any issues with it!
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