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Topic: Seemingly impossible understitching  (Read 777 times)
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sourfruit
« on: August 22, 2011 02:05:00 AM »

I am making the coat portion of Simplicity 2172, which is a floor-length Victorian coat. This thing is seriously enormous, and the entire inside of the coat is lined. Right now, what I basically have is a long vest made up of multiple panels, with a lining that is an identical of the coat-sans-sleeves. I sewed on the lining just fine - it told me to go all the way around the perimeter of the coat, leaving about a foot at the bottom unsewn so I can flip it inside-out.

However, now the pattern is telling me to understitch this entire seam. I read several explanations of what understitching is, and I get it - I just don't get how to successfully do this. I tried to do a bit of it on my machine, but messed up horribly (I couldn't get the lining fabric to not drift horizontally and get sewn to the seam allowance in weird places).

Before I try again, is it even feasible to try to understitch this entire thing when I have to constantly keep the coat centered over this small opening in the bottom to prevent one side of the coat from getting sewn to the other? Should I be doing this by hand? Or should I disregard it entirely? Note that the next step in the pattern is to flip it right side out, press it and staystitch all around where I would have been understitching, so I don't know if I need two sets of stitches basically in the same place. Please help!
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Aislynn
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« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2011 06:06:51 AM »

Does it say to stay stitch or top stitch?  Stay stitching should have come first.  If it's top stitching, I'd skip the understitching altogether, because you're right, you shouldn't need both.  You could always do the understitching by hand, or you could use some fusible hem tape to tack it down before doing it by machine.
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sourfruit
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2011 02:08:09 PM »

It's staystitching, and it definitely comes after the understitching in the pattern instructions, so I don't know what's going on there.
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« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2011 02:58:45 PM »

Weird!  I'm looking at the instruction via Printsew and I can't see where it says to stay-stitch after understitching.  I can see slip-stitch, but not stay-stitch!


"16.To understitch press lining away from coat; press seam
toward lining. Lining side up, stitch close to seam through
lining and seam allowances as far as possible.
17.Turn RIGHT side out, turning lining to INSIDE. Press,
continuing to press under opening edges of coat and lining.
Slip-stitch pressed edges together. Baste armhole edges
together. "

Maybe I'm not sure which steps you're referring to.... Huh

Under-stitching serves the purpose of keeping a lining  or facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.  Stay-stitching keeps an edge of fabric from stretching.  So they serve very different purposes...
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sourfruit
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2011 03:05:59 PM »

Agh I meant slipstitch. I must have misread the pattern when I was glancing at the future steps. Does the slipstitching affect my need to understitch?
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« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2011 03:17:18 PM »

The slipstitching is how you close the 1' opening you leave for turning it right side out.
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« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2011 03:28:31 PM »

Personally I would do all the under-stitching by hand where it wants to wander around on the machine.  But I'm chicken when it comes to machine-stitching and do all the hard parts by hand.   Tongue

You'll probably be tempted to skip the under-stitching but if you do the jacket is likely to look less tailored, sort of more puffy and shapeless.  This is something I only learned recently in my own projects...
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sourfruit
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2011 03:51:49 PM »

Hmm, sounds like I'm probably going to do the understitching by hand. I'll let y'all know how it turns out when I finish next century Tongue
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meeshybop
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2011 07:38:53 AM »

if its the last seam, i would slip it by hand to keep it neat and stop it from slipping.
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