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Topic: Corseted Vest?  (Read 590 times)
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« on: August 01, 2011 11:36:42 PM »

Hi, this is my first post (even though I have had an account for a while.) I am basically a n00b when it comes to sewing, but i have made a few things and know some basic information. Normally, I would just jump straight into working on a project, but when it comes to corsets, I am cautious enough to gather some information. I have made a corset before, and I a kinda proud of it (I was a finalist in the SCAD Fashion Challenge with it, and this is the photo they took)
Anyway, I have a couple corset patterns, although they are mostly just decorative and not particularly functional. My question (after all this ranting) is this; How would I modify a formal vest pattern to have a corseted back? I was considering making the button area (not sure if there's a name for that) fake, but I also want a really large lapel. Is there a way I can do this while still having it able to lace snugly and not deform the vest?
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2011 09:00:52 AM »

most corsets, and esp good-looking corsets are heavy duty.  a vest is not.  if you just want the lace-up back, simply stabilize the back panel with flatlining--a heavy cotton or such, and add some boning around the grommets as you would a corset.  now, if you want this to be form-fitting be prepared to do lots of fitting and to use a heavier fabric at least for the lining.  some featherlight boning would be easy to add at strategic points in the vest-side seams and near the buttons, whether they are functional or not.  Featherlight isn't for tight-lacing!  but its easy to disguise in a fashion corset so you don't lose your lines.  there are some good images if you google corset vest to help you develop your pattern
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2011 09:29:20 AM »

Cool, I was planning on using featherlite (I got it for like a quarter a yard, needles to say I bought the whole box) so I knew it wouldn't be a very functional corset, I just want it to be form fitting, not form changing. My main concern is that the lacing would pull the lapels open
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2011 02:29:14 PM »

Even if you don't want to do any serious lacing, you'll still want boning and a fairly stout fabric base. I'd recommend working from a corset pattern instead of a vest pattern. A corset pattern will give you a design that won't warp when under tension, unlike a vest, which is usually somewhat loose-fitting and will get all sorts of strange when you try to give it a full lacing. Do a mockup of the pattern to get the degree of snugness you want around the body, then draft shoulders and lapels off of the corset's pattern. In the end, you'll end up with two layers of fabric-- a corset, with lacing and front busk, connected to a fitted vest, with real front buttons and lacing up the back. The two layers would be joined at the center back, and share the same grommets and lacing, but the fabric layers would be separate, so the 'vest' can lay smoothly, with flat buttons and the slightest bit of ease, while the corset gives the needed support.

You could also do something like this: http://www.damseldress.com/store/display/2074/43/corsair  Front lacing with a solid back, instead of busk + back lacing. It looks less like an actual vest that the idea I posted above, but it's a lot simpler. You wouldn't have to fool around with getting the center back of the collar to work with your lacing panel, and there would  be about half as many layers of fabric to deal with.

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