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Topic: First dress-- fitting bust area  (Read 970 times)
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Bookaholic
« on: July 09, 2011 10:05:41 PM »

I've only done skirts before, so this is a little daunting...

I'm using a New Look pattern (this one). Problem is, it's sized for a B cup and I'm a DD...

I know that if your measurements don't match up exactly, you're just supposed use the larger size where you're larger (i.e. my 40" bust) and the smaller size where you're smaller (my 29" waist). Since I'm a little leery of cutting out the fabric right away, I'm using muslin to make a mockup of the bodice and I've gotten this:


However, if you look at the bottom edge, it's still sort of big...



Should I do darts? Gather the bottom when I attach the skirt? Do nothing?
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« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2011 10:31:48 PM »

i just started my first dress with a commercial pattern (also a new look one with princess seams) yesterday. i am too scared to cut the fabric yet because all my measurements fall under different size groups as well... my back neck to waist length matches size 6, my bust size 7, and my waist/hips size 14 lol... i think i will take a stab at mine tomorrow. i imagine we can just gather the larger pieces to fit the smaller ones since it will go on with a zipper
 Undecided
good luck with yours
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secondskin
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2011 12:36:35 AM »

If you want a more fitted bodice, you could just take in the seams at the bottom, and top, if need be. Try on the muslin, and pin (or have someone else do it) the seams so that they are fitted to your body.  Try to make sure they're even though. The princess seam is the equivalent of a dart so adding one would be overkill, unless they're a design aspect.

I hope that made sense.
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Honeythief
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2011 02:44:09 AM »

You probably won't get good results by just using a bigger size around the chest -- as you have seen, it can then be too big in other places. What you need is called a Full Bust Adjustment or Full Bust Alteration (FBA). If you google FBA Tutorial you'll find lots of information on the web. You should also get a good pattern alteration book such as Fit For Real People if you plan on making more than one garment for yourself as it will make things a lot easier for you  Smiley
« Last Edit: July 10, 2011 02:44:54 AM by Honeythief » THIS ROCKS   Logged

- Jenny
Bookaholic
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2011 01:33:01 PM »

You probably won't get good results by just using a bigger size around the chest -- as you have seen, it can then be too big in other places. What you need is called a Full Bust Adjustment or Full Bust Alteration (FBA). If you google FBA Tutorial you'll find lots of information on the web. You should also get a good pattern alteration book such as Fit For Real People if you plan on making more than one garment for yourself as it will make things a lot easier for you  Smiley

Ahhh. Good thing I didn't just start cutting right away. I'll look that up, thanks.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Patterns at http://www.ravelry.com/people/bookaholic
Bookaholic
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2011 01:33:38 PM »

i just started my first dress with a commercial pattern (also a new look one with princess seams) yesterday. i am too scared to cut the fabric yet because all my measurements fall under different size groups as well... my back neck to waist length matches size 6, my bust size 7, and my waist/hips size 14 lol... i think i will take a stab at mine tomorrow. i imagine we can just gather the larger pieces to fit the smaller ones since it will go on with a zipper
 Undecided
good luck with yours
You too!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Patterns at http://www.ravelry.com/people/bookaholic
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