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Bunnie Boo
« on: June 29, 2011 03:45:12 AM »

This is the 4th thing I have made. He was lots of fun to make. I used Sculpley Studio (I need to use it up before I can try other makes)
He is approximately 2.5inchies tall. I used enamel paint to give him a metallic look and all the little metal bits are from a watch.


He is a bit wonky, something happened during the cooking  Sad

His eyes are two tiny buttons painted with enamel and fixed on with crafting wire

His buttons are a tiny swarovski crystal bead, a small pice of clay and a tiny pearl

All the little bits are from a watch movement and affixed with sewing pins cut down in length

I hope you like him c&c welcome
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Goomba
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2011 03:55:10 AM »

Fantastic job. I believe the wonky aspect of him added a great character and your attention to detail is outstanding.
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2011 05:25:38 AM »

Wonky is good! He is charming!
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Diane B.
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2011 08:05:49 AM »

Oh, I love him!  Great color combos and stylish, also the onlays/inlays.

His wonkiness just gives personality too.  But if you do want thin areas to stay rigid, etc, while curing and avoid the effects of gravity, you can use some kind of armature under the clay (e.g., a bit of toothpick or wire inside the neck, or lay the item down and support the higher areas with tissues, polyester stuffing, a mound of baking soda, etc, making sure the bottom has a large enough flat area not to tump over when cool**).

Btw, depending on the type of "enamel" paint you used, the surface of the paint or the clay itself could become sticky over time or the paint could even begin seriously eating into the clay. 
Mostly only water-based paints like acrylics, etc, (and alcohol inks) should be used in direct contact with polymer clay to avoid that, but petroleum-solvent based paints (ones that must be cleaned up or thinned with paint thinner/etc, not water) can be applied over a water-based coating that was applied first (acrylic paint, clear polyurethane, etc).***

Diane B.

** http://glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm (> Support During Baking)
*** http://glassattic.com/polymer/paints.htm
http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011 09:24:49 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Bunnie Boo
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2011 03:58:09 PM »

I'm glad you like him!
I did use some crafting wire to support the head but I don' think it was thick enough!
It's good to know about the enamel paint, I will have to get some metallic acryllic paints for the future!
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Diane B.
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« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2011 09:16:30 AM »

Quote
I will have to get some metallic acryllic paints for the future!

You can always use acrylic paints and get a soft metallic look, but most clayers use metallic powders instead. 
They come in two types: real-metal powders and mica-based powders.  Now that mica powders are available, they're much more commonly used than the real-metal ones we used to use and are available in many  more colors.  Real-metal powders do create a "harder" shine but they're also not so good for lungs if breathed in from the air while using.

Mica powders (Pearl Ex is the most common brand) come in many "metal" colors like various golds, silvers, coppers, bronzes, etc, but also come in metallic reds, blues, greens, etc, and even in pearl/frost and iridescent/interference colors (real-metal powders come in few colors nowadays).

Metallic powders are usually applied while the clay is raw (with a finger, soft brush, rubber brush, etc).  They will hold onto the raw clay securely and not even have to be sealed after baking as long as they're rubbed in well and won't be excessively rubbed or stressed later.
Some mica powders come with an added water-soluble "binder" which makes them adhesive on surfaces that aren't sticky already like raw clay (like Perfect Pearls, Magical Fairie Dust, etc).

Metallic powders can also be turned into "paints" by just mixing them into any clear liquidy medium. 
They're usually applied after baking, depending on what they've been mixed into --for polymer clay, that might mean mixing them into polyurethane, Future, liquid clay or Diluent (Clay Softener), gum arabic, acrylic mediums, and clear craft resins, as well as some glues, acrylic paints, alcohol inks, and even water in some situations.

Clayers also get metallic effects sometimes from metallic waxes (after curing) and metallic leaf (before, or sometimes after with an adhesive) and occasionally plastic-backed metallic foils (before usually). And I forgot to add the thin metallic acrylic paints that act more like inks in my previous post (see below).

You can find loads more info about all those metallic possibilities on these pages if you're interested:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/powders_metallicwaxes.htm
http://glassattic.com/polymer/leaf.htm
http://glassattic.com/polymer/letters_inks.htm > Pearlescent Inks
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011 09:22:33 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Bunnie Boo
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2011 03:02:17 PM »

Wow thanks Diane for all the awesome advice  Grin
I have bookmarked all the links you have sent me and they have inspired me to keep at it!

Thanks again  Grin
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2011 01:22:32 PM »

Cute! I love his heart  Grin
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just1morestitch
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2011 08:40:10 PM »

He's great!
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Think
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2011 10:34:26 AM »

Aww I love him, he's so cute.
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