Ok this is my first tutorial so please be kind.
I’m a massage therapist and I found this board http://www.bodyworkonline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=16315
but the instructions on it weren’t very detailed so I decided to make my own tutorial for anyone that wants to make their own massage cloth.
There’s a product called “Magic Massager” http://www.magicmassager.net/ins.asp
and what it is, is a slippery piece of cloth so you can more easily massage over clothing. If you’re a massage therapist and you’ve ever given a chair massage you know how annoying it is to work with no oil, over clothing. There’s friction and pulling and clothing bunches up. With the massage cloth you have a slick piece of fabric between your hands and the client’s clothing making the massage better for you and the client. It also works good if you’re in a situation where you have to work around the draping. Like with preganacy massage, sometimes it is hard to undrape as much as you usually would, using this massage cloth makes it easier for you to work over the sheet, enabling you to give a better massage.
You don’t need to be a massage therapist to get use out of this either, its great for just giving a quick back rub to a friend, and according to the Magic Massager website it works amazing for pet massage.
The only downside to this massage cloth is that it costs $20 http://www.massagewarehouse.com/products/magic-massager-15-x-15/
but the good news is that with a little simple cutting and sewing you can make one yourself for $2.50 and it takes under half an hour to make.
1. Start out with one yard of polyester satin. It doesn’t have to be high quality or anything. I used the costume satin from Wal*Mart that was $2.50 a yard. If you’re going to be using your massage cloth in a setting where you have to look professional (like you do chair massage at a fancy office building or something) I would stick to black or white, otherwise just pick a color you like. Lightly iron your fabric, it doesn’t need to be perfectly smooth, just make sure you get out all the major creases so its easier to work with.
2. Lay your fabric out on the floor or table (if you have one big enough). Make sure its laying so all the edges are straight, and then fold the side to meet the bottom, making a triangle with a little left over. Cut off the extra fabric and you will be left with a square. Don’t worry about having to cut it perfect or use a rotary cutter or anything like that. This project’s pretty forgiving, its not going to affect the end product much if you’re edges are a little wonkey. If you started with a yard of 45” fabric you should have a square that is about 36”x36”.
3. Fold the square in half either vertically or horizontally (NOT diagonally), and cut the fold so you are left with two rectangles that are 18”x36”.
4. Fold each rectangle in half with the WRONG SIDES TOGETHER leaving the pretty shiney sides out. If you do any sewing this whole wrong sides together doesn’t make sense but trust me it works for this. Each rectangle should now be a 18”x18” square. Put a few pins in each side of the squares just to keep it folded evenly. Lay the squares out so that one square has the folded edge in the 6’o clock position (at the bottom, closest edge to you), and the other square so that the folded edge is in the 3’o clock position (the edge on your right).
5. Lay the 3’o clock square on top of the 6’o clock square. You should now have one square that consists of four layers of fabric with a folded edge on the bottom (6’o clock) and another folded edge on the right (3’o clock). Pin all the way around. Don’t worry if your edges don’t line up perfectly. Unless you have some trick for working with satin, you probably won’t have perfect edges cuz satin is slippery and moves a lot. And if you do have some trick to working with satin and battling its slipperyness, please let me know
. Instead of fretting about getting everything even and spending a ton of time trimming edges just use a larger seam allowance to ensure that all four layers get sewn through.
6. Sew around all four edges, remembering to leave an opening for turning it out.
7. Turn your square out. Make sure that when you reach into the hole to turn it out, you have two layers of fabric on each side. Does that make sense? So when you go to turn out the square, don’t just reach under the first layer and start turning it out, make sure that you grab it from the middle of the four layers of fabric. Just use your finger to turn out the corners, they don’t need to be crisp corners so you don’t need to use a chopstick or anything like that.
8. Sew closed the opening, either by hand or machine, whichever you prefer. DO NOT TOP STITCH AROUND THE ENTIRE THING!!! If you do that the fabric won’t slide right when you use it. Just sew enough to close the opening.
9. All done! Mine turned out to be about 16.5”x16.5”. I think it’s a good for most massage situations. But I’m still probably going to make a bigger one using a yard and a half of fabric which would start me off with a 45” square and should give me a finished cloth around 20”x20”. You could of course sew pieces of fabric together to make a larger starting square if for some reason you want to make a really huge cloth.
10. Take your new massage cloth and go give someone a massage. Better yet, go get someone else and make them give you a massage
Hope all this makes sense, and I hope someone gets use of this tutorial. It really is a great tool to have if you’re a massage therapist and would make a great gift for any massage therapist. Also it saves a ton of money and works just as good as the store bought product. I just made mine about a week ago and I've already gotten a ton of use out of it. I actually think I'm gonna make a few more, one to keep in the car and maybe even one to keep in the purse so I can save my hands some pain when my friends are begging me to rub their shoulders
If anyone ends up making one let me know how it turned out.