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Topic: Questions about corset making  (Read 510 times)
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Crafting-Krys
« on: April 11, 2011 10:22:11 PM »

Hello fellow Craftsters! I've mingled around on this site once in a while over the last year or so, but just now joined because I realised that I could definitely use help from fellow (and much more experienced) craftsters!

At the moment, I have a couple questions about making a corset, since that is one of the projects I'm planning on starting soon.

It's semi-late right now, so I might be adding questions that I can't think of at a later time, so I apologise in advance for that!

1. What would be the best fabric to use for the lining?
2. I'm hoping to make a reversible corset, and was thinking about having a double-lining in between the two outside layers of fabric. I was planning on sewing in boning channels straight into the fabric, instead of using the boning casings and sticking the boning between the 2 lining layers. Would that be a good idea, or should I do something different?
3. I know steel and spiral steel boning is the best to use, and just wanted to double-check something I've heard in the past: Flat steel boning is used next to the grommeting and for the busk, and spiral steel is used for all other channels, correct? Please let me know if a different way is better!
4. What is the best technique for sewing on the biased tape/finishing for the upper and lower edges for a corset? The last bridal-style corset that I made I used ribbon and it did not come out as smooth as I would have liked. Any tricks or suggestions to make it come out nice and flat?

Like I said, more questions may (most likely) crop up as I work on the corset. Thank you in advance for any advice I receive!

-Krys
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amazing_784
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2011 02:21:58 PM »

Did you check out the sticky posting at the top of this forum?  It deals exclusively with corset making.  There are a lot of good tips and tricks that people have shared, and I'm guessing that someone has already asked a few of the questions you were wondering about.  Check it out, it'll probably answer everything you ever needed to know about corsets! 
Good luck!
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Crafting-Krys
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2011 02:44:29 PM »

I found it after I posted this, but it was kind of a pain to look through, because there are so many pages with a helpful post every once in a while.

I only have a couple certain questions, so going through posts with info that I don't need or already know doesn't really help me.  Undecided
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hoxierice
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« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2011 07:51:14 PM »

1. What would be the best fabric to use for the lining?

Coutil is what "real" corsets are made out of, you could use a heavy twill, stiff and non stretcy

2. I'm hoping to make a reversible corset, and was thinking about having a double-lining in between the two outside layers of fabric. I was planning on sewing in boning channels straight into the fabric, instead of using the boning casings and sticking the boning between the 2 lining layers. Would that be a good idea, or should I do something different?

I think I would flat line the fashion fabrics to the lining fabrics, first and sew the channels in all layers (put the bones through the two lining layers.

3. I know steel and spiral steel boning is the best to use, and just wanted to double-check something I've heard in the past: Flat steel boning is used next to the grommeting and for the busk, and spiral steel is used for all other channels, correct? Please let me know if a different way is better!

That sounds good, I think it depends on how stiff you want the corset to be and how curved the casings are. I have made corsets with all steel bones and ones with all spiral. It kind of depends on what you want I don't think there is a "better" way than what you want/works for your project.

4. What is the best technique for sewing on the biased tape/finishing for the upper and lower edges for a corset? The last bridal-style corset that I made I used ribbon and it did not come out as smooth as I would have liked. Any tricks or suggestions to make it come out nice and flat?

Smooth how? Ribbon is not bias and doesn't curve as nicely. I think what I have done in the past is stitch and turn the sides and bottom and put piping along the top. Of course piping and bias are a lot a like. I think if you use bias it will be flatter(?) than a ribbon.
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Crafting-Krys
« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2011 02:13:48 PM »

Hox- Thanks for the info!

I've heard a lot about coutil, but I don't really know what it looks like, and I can never find it at the fabric stores, but twill I definitely can!

That was what I was thinking of doing with the fabrics, thanks for confirming that.

I guess the boning thing makes sense. I've only used spiral steel before, so I don't know how flat steel works. But I will definitely experiment with the different types.

I guess the last one wasn't quite clear enough, but it seems like you figured out what I was trying to say. The ribbon didn't want to lie flat, and that's what the pattern I was following said to use, so I went with it. I'll definitely try out bias for this one and see how that works.

Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it!
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klnelson11
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2011 06:42:00 PM »

Spiral steel is best used wherever there are curves.  Flats are best by the grommets, yes, but near cups or hip, sides, spiral is best.  Are you using a pattern?  After the first two I made with patterns, I discovered that they are all pretty much the same, and if you are careful with your stitches your corsets are all reversible.

coutil is expensive and necessary for heavy duty or constant use corsets.  Twill, if it is a tight weave, is fine for casual use I used duck once and I will probably never do that again.  Way too coarse to wear against bare skin. 

Bias must be hand-sewn.  make friends with your iron, stock some burn cream, and use it.  cover up funky stuff with pretty beads, a decorative stitch, or lace. 
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