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Topic: GRRRRR, why was I cursed?!?!  (Read 3531 times)
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l3ri
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« on: March 29, 2011 01:29:30 PM »

Hey ladies. I'm down right frustrated right now.  Cry  let me explain.

So I've made a promise to only wear sundresses this summer, which I am all too excited about because I love them. With this promise though, I realize I only have a couple of sundresses....won't make it through the summer with that. I've found some really great sheets at the local thrift stores that I know will make the perfect sundresses ^_^  Here comes the frustration. I don't like using patterns because they never fit me right, I' have rather large boobs. I'm hour glass shaped and would like to make some empire waist dresses like those below.

http://www.fashionus.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/sundress.jpg
http://www.coutureinthecity.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/sundress.jpg (think i got this one down)
http://www.ma-petite-chou.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/vintage-floral-sundress.jpg

Problem I've run into is I can't seem to get them right. I've used quite a bit of my drafting fabric trying to get the patterns down right and they just don't seem to fit. I'm at a loss of what to do. I really want to avoid shirring/smocked types. I wouldn't be apposed to an elastic waist to give it the shape it needs. I'm just completely at a loss at what to do.  Embarrassed
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2011 05:44:06 AM »

Well, first off, I'd strongly encourage you to try the dragon dress tutorial found here on craftster. It takes you through step by step to draft a custom-fit pattern, and makes a very cute, flattering dress. I've made 2 and know it adapts easily to a busty & curvy figure.

Here's a tutorial for full bust pattern adjustment that might help, too. http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=486

Lastly, I've had luck starting out with a pattern that fits in the bust and taking it in in the waist & hips. Try the commercial pattern companies. This one from Butterick has some similar details to your second picture. http://butterick.mccall.com/b5461-products-10844.php?page_id=156

Good luck!
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ShannonMB
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2011 07:09:05 AM »

Gotta say...I'm in the same boat....I adore a good sundress, but they never fit right! 

I finally tried the duct tape dress dummy!  Her name is Betty and she works like a charm getting things sized to the "vast tracts of land" up top.  I don't know about you, but I am better able to visualize a pattern alteration if I have something I can put my hands on. 

There are a ton of tutorials on craftster and on the internet!!   Grin
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2011 07:10:52 AM »

I agree, the duct tape dress form is invaluable!
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ljelondon
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2011 09:09:29 AM »

If you're an hourglass shape then it can be difficult to get empire line dresses to look right. Perhaps you just need to try something with a more natural waistline (like the dragon dress)?
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bobbinalong
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2011 06:37:10 PM »

...duct tape dress dummy!  Her name is Betty .....

.... have something I can put my hands on. 

The visualization of this made me giggle.
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ThePQ4
« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2011 10:55:13 AM »

Following the tutorial above is an excellent idea. Also, if you have an old sundress that you don't really wear any more, but fit you well --you could use that to create a pattern as well. Just rip out the seams and use it as a template (alternatively, I'm sure you could find a tutorial on making templates on cardboard, etc, w/out taking out the seams). Just remember to add seam allowances, and "wiggle room". I tend to cut things slightly larger than I think they should be...and most of the time, they turn out just right (or...smaller...in which case, I give them to my little sister, LOL)
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ShannonMB
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2011 08:42:20 PM »

...duct tape dress dummy!  Her name is Betty .....

.... have something I can put my hands on. 

The visualization of this made me giggle.

LOL....just know that once Betty was done I did do a little feeling up...I couldn't help it!  LOL
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l3ri
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« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2011 06:46:09 PM »

Oh, ladies thanks so much! I attempted the dragon dress and of course couldn't get the bust part just right. I've made several dresses since, all of which are wearable, but not quite right.  Undecided I have also broken down and bought a dress pattern. Sad I'm hoping since the bust part of the pattern is a simple tube with a princess seam, i'll be able to finally nail these suckers and finally have a good fit. Wink crossing my fingers!
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tortilladesigns
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2011 11:37:22 AM »

What kind of fitting issues are you running into? Do you have any pictures you can show? I also have big boobs and have a lot of challenges...maybe I can help.
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« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2011 04:38:57 PM »

Okay.....I made my daughter a sundress this spring.  She's a 44DD and notoriously hard to fit.  The pattern she picked out, unknown to me until I started cutting out the pattern pieces, has a side zipper!!!!!  I don't like zippers.  I really don't like side zippers.  However, it came out really nicely. 



(McCall's 6085 - not as short as the short dress, but not as long as the long one either)

I don't have a photo of her wearing it, at least not that I can remember....but if I can find one, I'll come back and post it.

Anyhow, when I had it all made, and adjusted up for her boobage, I had her come try it on.  Well, underneath the biggest part of her bust we had a problem - the dress in that part and at the top of the skirt was too big.  What I ended up doing was taking out the zipper, tapering the top part of the dress inward from the top of it to where it attached up to the skirt, and then tapering it out again so it would fit the large of her abdomen.  I'd never done it before but I knew I had to do something to make it look better. 

Anyhow, what I used to do before, when I wasn't quite as confident that I could fix my screw-ups, was to make a muslin only not necessarily out of muslin....whatever was really cheap and available at the time....and then if I really butchered it badly, it wasn't such a letdown as if I'd used expensive fabric.  Sometimes the only way to learn is to make mistakes.  Learning the boob adjustments for her has been easier than for me.  She has bigger shoulders and a bigger chest.  I am a full size and part of another size smaller on top than on the bottom.....except in my arms.  This really complicates things since I have to alter up the sleeves if I make the top smaller but if I make it the same size as the bottom and the sleeves my B-cups disappear in the mountains of fabric.  I'm slowly but surely learning how to adjust the fit for this problem.  I just recently learned to increase a sleeve so it's looser on the bottom without looking ghastly on top.  Heck, by the time I'm 80, I should have this all figured out!!   Cheesy

Trisha
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