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Topic: Reverse Mosiac Method Steps with Photos  (Read 6160 times)
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joby560
« on: January 09, 2011 03:11:08 PM »

** This method is great for those new to mosaic arts, working with children, and for those who like the benefit of being able to re-arrange tiles before you ever introduce cement to the design.


1. Draw out your design on white paper.  Tape that design paper to a board.  Place a piece of contact paper over the design with the STICKY SIDE UP! - Secure the Contact Paper (TM) down at the corners with tape.


2. Begin laying out your tile on top of the Contact Paper.  Be sure to lay your tile down so that the side facing up is the side you will see when the project is complete. DO NOT PLACE THE TILE FACE DOWN.


3. Continue laying out your design.  You can remove tile, re-arrange them, and change your design any time during this step.


4. Once the design is complete, use clear packing tape and cover the entire surface of the project.  I overlap the strips of packing tap to ensure that all pieces are covered.


5. Use your hand to make sure every piece of tile has made contact with the packing tape.  You want it secure.


6.  Remove the project from your work board.  You will be removing the packing tape, tile and contact paper as one unit.


7. Turn the project over so the contact paper is face up.  Remove the Contact Paper at this time.  The tile will stick to the packing tape and will be wrong side up.


8.  Treat your host surface with water sealer (if wood) and allow it to dry a full 24-28 hours depending on the manufacturer's directions.  If you do not treat your wooden surface it will buckle as the wood will absorb the moisture in the cement in the next step rendering your project ruined.

(NO photo of this as this is where the normal routine of mosaicing picks back up!)
9. Prepare the wooden surface with the cement.  THEN, place your design on top of the cement with the PACKING TAPE side up! - Press the tiles into the cement.  It is ok if some of the cement touches the packing tape. - ALlow this to cure for at least 24 hours and just to be safe I let it cure for 48 hours BEFORE removing the packing tape.  After you remove the packing tape, be sure to give the cememnt any additonal time it may need to cure/dry.  Sometimes the packing tape will hold in some moisture and a day of air drying can makesure the cement is dry.

10. Grout as normal~!


This picture is not of the mirror above in the steps, but it is a similar pattern and I did use this method to make this mirror.  I am sold on this method and won't be doing the traditional method anymore.  This method is much more forgiving!
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2011 04:17:03 PM »

This is so smart!! Thanks for sharing!
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2011 06:56:04 PM »

I've really been wanting to do mosaic for a while!!! I love you're design, and thanks for the tutorial! I hope I'll get to soon!!!
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2011 07:38:35 PM »

That's good news. I have a box o'broken but sentimental stuff I want to tile across a counter but have hesitated...how many weeks will the counter be out of commission?

YOUR way, I can do it inside a few days.

THANK YOU!

(If anybody's a contac-paper klutz like me, put the whole roll in the freezer about an hour. If it sticks to itself afterwards, you can peel it apart again, no waste. You only have to do it once for the roll, ever. Don't know why, but I used the stuff in my classroom for book covers, and it works!)
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« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2011 04:19:37 AM »

Thanks!
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2011 04:13:17 PM »

What a clever idea! When we get around to renovating our kitchen I wanted to do the backsplash with Tetris tiles, but I was worried I'd never be able to get the pattern to fit without a lot of cement drying and replacing issues. Now I can have it all planned out before we even remove the old tiles!
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Vicbowling
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2011 04:33:54 PM »

Good Job! That came out great! The water sealer is a good idea too.



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Mike Jordan
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2011 06:37:41 PM »

Excellent tutorial, Joby. I can see how this idea can be modified just a little bit and used to do fused mosaics rather than the traditional grouted type like in your tutorial.  Thanks.

Mike
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joby560
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2011 01:37:01 PM »

You are welcome!  I didn't come up with this method.  I learned it at a place called Seattle Mosaic Arts.  They are the pros and I have used it ever since going there.  Their link is below if you want to check it out.

http://seattlemosaicarts.com/
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« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2011 09:39:11 PM »

Wow, I think I could even do this!  Well, you make it seem like I could, at least. Cheesy

Congrats on being a Featured Project for the Glass Crafts board! http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=369908.0
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