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Topic: how do you frame an embroidered piece?  (Read 1733 times)
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cowgirl
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« on: May 22, 2005 01:31:31 PM »

for the "limit your colors" stitchalong, i embroidered this



I may make it into a bag, but I already have WAY to many purses and other bags. I think I would like to frame it. But how to I do that?
« Last Edit: June 01, 2011 09:35:47 PM by jungrrl - Reason: fixed picture(s) » THIS ROCKS   Logged
kiki*eks
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« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2005 08:59:02 PM »

I think that would look great framed. I seen the mounting boards at Michael's crafts, it was in the emboridery/cross stitch area of the store. That's if you have a Michael's or you can search online ebroidery/cross stitch supply shops.
(Stitchery Tape -This transparent double coated adhesive tape is specifically designed for mounting stretched needlework to art boards, foam core, etc. Adhesive will not bleed through or damage fabrics. Acid free, archival quality. Comes in a 30 foot roll, 1 1/2" wide. Packaged with instructions for use.
Self-Stick art needlework mounting boards - Pres-On products pressure sensitive adhesive mounting boards are a quick and easy way to mount needlework, stitchery, cross stitch or any other artwork for framing. Cut the boards with a utility knife or single edge razor blade.)

I just found this site...

 http://www.abc-cross-stitch-patterns.com/how_to/Projects/Framing_Emboidery_Design.html
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btlgrl
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2005 06:33:35 AM »

I would advise against using the self stick mounting board as it will yellow and eventually lift.  Has made some of my work appear dirty looking.

Go buy yourself a sheet of foam core board (can be bought at Wal Mart, JoAnns, Micheals)  You will need to buy sequin pins as well.  These are really tiny stick pins (about 3/4 inch long)  they don't penetrate into the foam core as much and if they don't go in exactly straight then you won't pierce the foam core.

Figure out how largeyour foam core needs to be to fit in your frame.  Cute using a utility knife.

Take a straight edge and mark both diagonal lines (Make an X in the center of the foam core.... use a pencil)  Place a sequin pin in the middle to make a small hole.

Next find the center of your piece.  Place a sequin pin through the center.  Line the pin up with the hole you previously made and attach the piece to the foam core.

Using something like a T square, line your piece up so it is straight.  Kind of wrap your work around the foam core and place a sequin pin along the upper edge of foam core, secruing the piece to the foam.  Do the same for the bottom, making sure the fabric remains straight.  It should be tight, but not stretched so tightly that it warps.

Do the same for either side, use your T square and make sure it stays straight.  If any of those 4 pins needs tightened do so now.

Now, you will work your way around the piece, pinning.  I always pin close together (anout 1/4 inch)  Start at top and place  a pin on either side of center pin, do the same with the bottom, then do the two sides.  Always work with opposite sides and never do all one side, the next.  The piece will be crooked if you do.

When you reach the corners go as far as you can.  Check with T square again and make sure it's straight and fabric is tight, when you are happy with how it looks, turn it over and pulls the fabric to the center and tape (you can just use regular masking tape)  After the corner ares folded downa dn all edges are taped, cut a piece of wrapping paper (most embroidery stores use cool paper bags that work nicely) and cut it to size of your foam core.  You cna use spray adhesive (on paper), tacky glue, or even hot glue to glue the paper to back.  All methods will release so the piece can be taken of the foam core and washed if necessary!  Place in frame and you are done.

Was that clear?

As the site posted mentions, you could place the pins farther apart, then take floss and "lace" the back of the work, basically sew it together.  The method works well, but the I've taken several framing classes using all kinds of methods and the above seems to fit best for me.  It's the one I teach now as well.

Good luck!

CJ
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kiki*eks
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2005 09:40:41 AM »

I would advise against using the self stick mounting board as it will yellow and eventually lift.  Has made some of my work appear dirty looking. CJ

oooo - good to know, thanks for the tip  Smiley
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withananotane
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2005 08:13:49 PM »

I'm afraid that I've lost the great bookmarked tutorial on mounting finished pieces. I do remember though that if you want this to last a long time that you should try and find brass straight pins as they will not rust over time (I have never been able to find them myself though). You will also want your foam board to be acid free.
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Chelsea
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2005 11:57:22 AM »

I was about to ask if you could use cardboard as the mounting board............no w that I think about it the brown will show through.   Just had my husband bring home a few boxes from work so I could mount my finished x-stitches.   Good thing I didn't do it last night!   
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btlgrl
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2005 11:48:45 AM »

Good point!  Thought sure I mentioned acid free, but I guess I didn't!

I've never had a problem with the sequin pins rusting.  I have some that have been framed for over 10 years and not a trace of rust.  Perhaps this might be a problem in a high humidity room like the bathroom.  My mom does have a piece I sticthed in her bathroom, but to be honest we haven't taken it out to wash it so I haven't checked.  Maybe I will next time I am there.

Also I shoudl have noted that if you use glass, you need to put some kind of spacer in between the glass and your work! (to hold it away from the glass)

CJ
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hipmama1970
« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2007 08:28:36 AM »

Ooh, this is very helpful! I've never before actually finished any piece of cross-stitching, and I wasn't sure what to do with this first one! Thank you Smiley
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