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Topic: scrabble and wood tile necklaces-when to drill?  (Read 2119 times)
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AshtonagoL
« on: October 21, 2010 07:45:28 AM »

I'm planning to try to make some scrabble pendants for the first time.  I've read that it's a hundred times easier to use glue on bails rather than drill holes, BUT I'm cheap so I want to drill holes and use jump rings.  I'm planning to use diamond glaze on them.  So do I drill before I glaze or after?  And what about wood tiles?  I bought them because they were various sizes and I liked that better than just the scrabble tile size.  If I seal these with paint or Mod Podge, they should be ok to make like scrabble tiles from there right?  And on those would you drill first, then paint or Mod Podge, or vice versa?  Thanks in advance for your input!  I'm hoping I can do some drilling while I'm sitting around the campfire at the campground this weekend! 
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2010 09:29:12 AM »

Generally, you'd want to drill most anything before adding a clear finish because dried finish can whiten from being scratched or disturbed, etc. (though you could always add another coat of finish).  Not sure about the dimensional glues like Diamond Glaze, or epoxy resins, though since the area around the hole might not end up the way you want.

Btw, Diamond Glaze is fairly scratchable so it's recommended to add a strong clear finish on top of it after drying (like acrylic fingernail polish or a clear gloss/water-based polyurethane--hardware store) to make its surface harder and tougher.  ModPodge (and other brands of decoupage medium, or just thinned down permanent white glues) will be softer than you might want and susceptible to later scratching and cloudiness from humidity, though not as bad as the dimensional ones like DG, so it benefits from those topcoats too (or the polyurethane/fingernail polish can be used instead of ModPodge/etc).
...some info on those here: http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm

For campfire drilling, would you be using a rotary tool (Dremel, etc) and drill bit, with a battery pack?  
If not, some softer woods can be drilled through with hand drills-- ranging from drill bits held in pin vises or in handles of baked polymer clay and twisted in, to the "push drills" that twist automatically when pressed down like Japanese screw punches/book drills or the larger Yankee hand drill types some of which have a wheel you can crank to do the drilling:
http://www.google.com/images?q=push+drill
http://www.google.com/images?q=hand+drill
http://www.google.com/images?q=Dremel
« Last Edit: October 22, 2010 09:00:23 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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AshtonagoL
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2010 11:24:54 AM »

Thanks!  I'm sure I'll be using a dremel.  I could use my husband's regular cordless drill but that seems like a good way to lose a finger. lol.  Thanks for the info! 
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Onyxnox
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« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2010 11:11:56 PM »

You can drill before hand.  I have made glass tile pendents with Diamond Glaze on predrilled glass pieces and if you are careful, it forms enough of a bead, that you can avoid filling the hole.  Even if you do fill the hole, you can poke through with a needle, little stick, brush, or toothpick to maintain patency of the hole (and even glaze the inside for a nice finished look).  What you may not want to do is go through the work of making them up, then drilling and skipping the tool and scratching and ruining the finished product.

If you want something more permanent and waterproof (Diamond Glaze is NOT waterproof) consider resin.  I just worked with Lisa Pavelka's Magic Glos UV resin in a work shop and am impressed by how fast it sets up, and it forms a nice bead, and layers nicely.  It is a ready use product, not a 2 part resin, which I will be trying next.
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AshtonagoL
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2010 02:40:13 PM »

Thanks Onyxnox!  I didn't get around to making these yet so maybe I'll check out that resin!  I've been wanting to try resin but didn't really want to mess with the 2 part business!  Thanks!
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Onyxnox
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« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2010 06:56:03 PM »

Oooops - I should say, poke though the Diamong Glaze when it is wet - easier then. 

As for the Magic Glos, it was actually a work shop at the Creativ Festival with Lisa Pavelka herself.  She has drilled into it, and if there are divots, bubbles, or scratches, she has used a new layer to resurface and it looks like new.  I am going to ask my local bead shop to order a supply.  I love that it is not a two part resin. 
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AshtonagoL
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2010 03:00:35 PM »

Cool!  I drilled the holes with a regular hand power drill.  My hubby said I'd probably hurt myself with the Dremel since it goes so fast. lol.  It was actually really easy.  I drilled a hole near the top to put a jump ring through though I'm not sure how successful I'm gonnna be at getting that jump ring through the hole.  Others I put the hole in the top so I can glue an eye pin down in it.  I used DG3 because that's what I had on hand.  They aren't dry yet but look awesome so far!  I can't wait to see them dry!  I was just really careful around the holes.  I accidentally filled in two but I just waited a few minutes and poked it with a toothpick and it opened it back up.  Thanks for the advice!  I'll post some pics when they're all done!  P.S.  I think these could easily be my new addiction...I drilled holes in 30 of them!  Only glazed about 10 so far though.  Wanted to make sure it was gonna work first.
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hockamama
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2010 06:19:06 PM »


If you want something more permanent and waterproof (Diamond Glaze is NOT waterproof) consider resin.  I just worked with Lisa Pavelka's Magic Glos UV resin in a work shop and am impressed by how fast it sets up, and it forms a nice bead, and layers nicely.  It is a ready use product, not a 2 part resin, which I will be trying next.

I used Magic Glos in a couple of bezel pendants and put them under a uv flashlight, since it's been cloudy the last few days.  It took them FOREVER to dry.  What should I do different?
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Diane B.
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« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2010 10:11:14 AM »

hockamama, there are different kinds of clear resin.  The UV one-part types (like Lisa's) are just one kind.  Those are easier to use, but have disadvantages too (all the resins have disadvantages of some kind...just have to pick the one with the least important ones for your particular use, environment, budget, etc).

Here are some links that could give you some info if no one else chimes in:
http://carmicimicata.blogspot.com/2009/03/uv-resin.html
http://amusedcreations.blogspot.com/2010/04/musings-on-uv-resins-and-polymer-clay.html
http://www.amazon.com/Lisa-Pavelka-306605-Magic-1-Ounce/product-reviews/B0023SXKYU/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

I suspect that the UV flashlight wasn't strong enough but really don't know.  And remember that where you live *will* matter for curing any kind of resin but especially the UV-curing kind.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2010 10:13:10 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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