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Topic: need to alter backside of shorts pattern  (Read 200 times)
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thelaughingwillow
« on: July 16, 2014 10:15:43 PM »

Several times now I have made patterns for shorts, only to find the back side too tight across the widest part of my butt.  They also seem to have too much fabric in the front.  I've tried various pattern companies, and various styles of shorts.  What can I do to alter the pattern to give myself more fabric across the back?  I tried simply widening the pattern pieces by a set amount, but that didn't seem to solve the problem. 

Thanks for any advice/expertise you can share with me.
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Nofuelleft
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2014 10:06:11 AM »

It could be you need more crotch dept. ( not even sure if i'm spelling it correct)
By that i mean the angle of the backseam could be wrong for your body type.

If you put on the pants that you made, are there any "lines" showing up in the fabric??
Easiest way to look for them is just have someone else take a picture while you stand like you normally do.

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steiconi
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2014 01:53:00 PM »

Do you have a pair of pants that fit well?
Measure the crotch depth along the center back seam from waist to crotch central, where four pieces join.
Compare this to the measurement of your pattern piece, allowing for any difference in waist height (naturally, hip huggers will have a shorter measurement than high-waisted pants).

Turn the good-fitting pants inside out and lay them out as smoothly as possible along the center back seam.  Lay your pattern piece on top, and compare the curve.  If the waists are similar height, match the pattern to the pants there, and see how the two differ along the length and width.  Alter the pattern to match the pants (and sounds like you may need to repeat for the front), then test the pattern with cheap fabric.

Or take apart a pair of pants that fit, and use that for a pattern.  Be sure to add seam allowances, and be prepared for confusing differences.  Fitting pants is one of the more difficult challenges in sewing!
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