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Topic: Aldrich metric pattern cutting PROBLEM  (Read 1267 times)
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kaiserchiefette
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« on: July 23, 2010 11:14:24 AM »

Hi everybody,
i just got the book “metric pattern cutting for women’s wear” by winifred aldrich. at first sight it looks like it could become my bible (no offence!).
but when i looked at the part where she explains how to make blocks from your individual measurements, i got confused, cos for the waist-to-hip-measurement she just goes back to the standard measurements that are based on the bust measures.
Being taller than average (176cm/5’10) and extremely pear shaped (76cm waist, 108 cm hip), the standard measurements for waist to hip doesnt match at all with my body.
Maybe someone here is more familiar with pattern drafting than me? Maybe someone even has the same problem?
I just dont know, if i could just draft the pattern with my measures? or would i have to adjust the pattern in other areas, too?

Please help! Wink I so want to get started with drafting!
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soorawn
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2010 01:00:11 PM »

I don't get it.  When you draft your own patterns, you DO use your own measurements.  That's the whole point of it.  I don't see the relationship between the hips and the bust to get the waist to hip measurement.  Doesn't she explain what measures to use in every place?
Just measure your waist to hip measurement and use that figure instead.
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kaiserchiefette
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« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2010 03:19:15 PM »

Thanks so much for the response!
I don't get it either. But the section in this book starts with:
"Take the bust measurements. Unless this measurement is very large in proportion to the rest of the figure, the bust measurement determines the drafting size. Example bust 104 cm = size 20."
Later she goes on with:
"It is a good idea to list the standard measurements at the side (of your individual chart) to compare them. If there are wide differences, the figure should be remeasured at these points and checked to see if it is in fact much wider or narrower than the normal figure."
Why is that? It shouldn't matter what the standard size says, no?

And then she explains the taking measurements, and when it comes to "Waist to hip" it just says "Standard measurement".

Probably i should just give it a try with my own measurements, which sounds most convincing to me.

Thanks for the help.
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N30Nb100d
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2010 09:01:57 PM »

You're right, that doesn't make much sense. If you're drafting from scratch, who cares what standard size you're close to? Unless you're starting with a pre-made pattern and just altering it, it really shouldn't matter. I don't get why the bust measurement would determine drafting size either... If I used a standard size based on my bust, I'd never get the garment past my hips or waist  Tongue
I've never seen this book, but it's almost as if it's teaching you to draft only for someone of average shape.
I would use your own measurements everywhere. The worst that could happen is having to alter the pattern after you have it drawn out/after making a muslin (and well, it seems like if you did follow the directions, you'd have to do that anyways!)
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kaiserchiefette
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2010 04:32:34 AM »

After a night of not sleeping so much i think i might have semi-figured the problem out. In the book they first tell you how to make an average block pattern for different sizes. And i guess the part with the individual figures is not really for drafting an own pattern for that shape, more altering the average one for a particular size (based on the bust size, whyever).
Yet, why they assume that everyone has an average waist-hip-length is a mystery to me.
And yeah, i'd have to make a musslin anyways, i guess. I've always been to lazy to do that... :p

Thanks everyone for bothering with my question.
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N30Nb100d
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2010 06:21:11 PM »

Ah, okay. I guess that makes a bit more sense. Glad you figured it out!!
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hoxierice
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2010 02:03:35 PM »

I own that book, but it isn't in my house right now so I can't answer these questions myself. What are you trying to draft? A bodice? A skirt? A shift dress? If it is a bodice then your hips don't matter, if it is a skirt or pants then your bust doesn't matter, if it is a shift dress than yes it does matter.

For the waist to hip length are you talking about the measurement that is the distance from where you measure your waist to where you measure your hip? If that is the case then take your measurement and use it in the draft. Or are you taking about the the measurement of the waist in relationship to the measurement of the hip?
 
The reason why books use "standard" bodies (and different books have different standards). Is because the draft is a mathematical formula that works in a general range of numbers, but if you have a number that is way out of range for example really big bust and tiny waist, it distorts the formula and doesn't work correctly. That is not the fault of anything except the limits of the formula. You are getting a balance of easy of measurements to specificity of the draft. Plus, you should always mock up the draft and make fitting corrections, so the draft is just to give you a starting place. 

In that book there are some numbers that they give you, which is why you have to determine the closest "standard" size, so that you can use the given measurements that would be closest to your own.
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kaiserchiefette
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« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2010 05:29:21 AM »

Hi hoxierice,
i was trying to draft the dress block. My waist is tiny in comparison to my hips, which is why standard sizes never apply to my own reality.
But now i noticed that also the distance between where i measure my waist to where i measure my hip is longer than standard (now it makes sense that i always had problems with bikini shorts not covering my behind completely).

But i guess, if i just draft that block based on ALL of my own measurements it should work out just as fine, no? That was my initial question.
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hoxierice
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« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2010 09:11:08 AM »

I would really have to look at the book to make an accurate statement, but I think you should be able to use your waist and hip measurements. There might be some measurements that come from the "standard" so you would have to choose if you were going by what size your waist is, or your hips. If the block will fit your bust and your hips, but the waist will be too big, you could do that too and make a mock up and take it in at the waist along the side seams and darts.

You will want to do a mock up anyway.
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Goodbye Tucson! I will miss how everything dried so quickly!
rossie
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2010 03:48:35 PM »

My advice is to practice drafting blocks with the standard size tables until you've got the hang of it.  Then take your own measurements - the whole lot of them (you may need an extra pair of hands) and make your very own sizing table perfectly fitted to you.  You can then draft out your blocks from those measurements.  Have fun!   
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