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Topic: wrap around skirt from A-line skirt pattern  (Read 4965 times)
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edelC
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« on: May 31, 2010 07:33:50 AM »

I started with this tute. but found it didn't work very well for a number of reasons. I think it is most suited to slim women,
http://angrychicken.typepad.com/angry_chicken/2008/07/5-minute-skirt.html

In the end I modified in to a reversable wrap around, my version of a tute below


I am a UK size 18, which I think is about a US 16, the pattern as drafted creates a large waistline which is brought in with elastic, I didn't realise how much! As we know elastic waistlines are not kind to those of us who are more generously proportioned.

The skirt on this pattern (and I feel really bad about criticising a free pattern online, but I just don't think its very good) is cut on the bias. I thought that this would give a decent amount of stretch and so the waistline wouldnt be too large...wrong..I see no need to cut this on the bias, unless you are using a very light cotton, I used a thrifted sheet, so an average weight cotton, the fabric is a little too heavy to drape much more by being cut on the bias...so cutting it that way adds nothing imho. Undecided

Bias cutting is also uses a LOT more fabric,

So I made up the skirt as per the tute, the fabric I used was actually a thrifted bedcover and so had a lining, so I cut fabric+lining out as one, to give a lined skirt, this was only joined at the top, the combination of the big waist and the lining made me look like a sack..horrible horrible. Huh I am sorry I didn't get a pic of it...like i said its probably best suited to slim women.

The other major problem with this pattern, regardless of your size, is that the hemline is insufficiently curved, she mentions curving it about 1/2 inch, when I had my skirt made up I found that the difference in length between the front of the skirt and the sides were almost 5 inches! So I had to recut the sides..

this link gives a great A-line skirt drafting tute, it is a lot more complex, but from this you can see the limitation of the simple skirt above, both the waist and the hem need to be curved!
http://sew-mad.blogspot.com/2007/03/basic-line-skirt-drafting.html

the pink chalk line in this pic is the length it should be and this was after previously cutting about two inches off the sides.


Having said all of that, using this pattern as a starting point to draft your own is not a bad idea, this is what I did. I used newspaper to draft the pattern, but when you do, make sure you draw the bottom hem differently, as below  

then for us gorgeously rounded women, instead of sewing up both sides of the skirt, sew up one, leave one open, hem that side, attach ties (or buttons) to turn it into a wrap around skirt. If you are using ties, you will have to make a buttonhole (or a button hole fudge as my machine has PMT and wouldnt do buttonholes today) to pass the tie from the underneath edge of the skirt, through to the top so you can tie it off.

The pattern details from the tute made a wrap around with about 8 inches of overlap, which is perfect. And it worked really well as a lined wrap around..


NOTE: I made another lined wrap around, to compare this pattern with another one online, it is here http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=349183.msg4070542#msg4070542
 

 Pattern Drafting.

Grab a few large sheets of newspaper and tape them together.

Measure your waistline, half the measurement and add 4 inches. This is the waistline of the pattern piece. draw this as a straight line near the top of your newspaper (in the middle of the sheet)

Draw a line straight down from the centre of the first line, to make a T, the length of this line will be the desired lenght of your skirt, plus about 2 inches for hems top and bottom, (on me this was about 23'' and I am 5'9'' tall, knee length is most flattering for larger women.)

Add approx 22'' to the length of your first line and draw this perpendicular to the bottom of the t-shape, again make sure it is centered. Join up the ends of the top and the bottom line, so you end up with a triangle with the top chopped off.

Now taking your skirt length measurement, measure a few places from the waistline, you will find that it is exactly the correct legth in the middle, but much too long towards the sides, mark in the correct length in a few places and join the dots, what you want in the end is a curved hemline, NOT a straight one as in this picture.


SEWING
cut out two from the main fabric and two more from lining if you like. Sew up one side on both fabric and lining, and join them together at the top.


finish the side edges, as mine is lined I simply sewed them together, with raw edges inside, between the lining and the top fabric.

make two ties, about 20'' long and attach them to each of the top 'corners' of the skirt,


try it on and figure out where the underneath tie needs to come out through the skirt, mark it and make a button hole. As you can see from this pic I just sewed over and back, small zig-zag,


then finish the hem, I have a blind hem on my machine which is awesome!, you could serge it or sew it by hand.

then try and take a picture of the finished article, firstly wear the skirt loosely so that the front 'corner' dips.


and take another pic in the garden which looks frankly quite strange, and be undecided which to post..so post both!



Oh and although I have talked about lining and top fabric above, this skirt is reversable.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2010 02:45:12 PM by edelC » THIS ROCKS   Logged

barbolot
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2010 08:20:00 AM »

I love the repurposed fabric you used!  And I think the skirt turned out lovely!

I have the same curvy-ness issues, so I've hesitated to even begin to sew clothing for myself.  I'm in dire need of some new summertime skirts, so this is perfect.  Thanks for posting this, with all the recommendations!  You've inspired me to try this! 
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edelC
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« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2010 08:59:53 AM »

barbolot, it works as above, but its still not a perfect pattern. I am not entirely happy with the hemline, having a belly pushes it down a little in front and a butt, up in the back, but it works OK, would definitely be worth trying in a thrifted sheet, just one layer, dont bother lining it unless your fabric is really thin.
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lolaforpresident
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2010 10:43:41 AM »

I totally know what you mean. Many of my skirts get an inadvertent Aline because of my big butt. I think you did well with the pattern. It seems a lot of things are made for skinny girls despite our overweight epidemic. Alas. I hope you enjoy your new skirt.
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« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2010 10:53:26 AM »

For some reason today, I can only see the last few photos, and I didn't realize that was a wrap skirt. I have a king size flat sheet and two pillowcases my mom got for me at a thrift store. The print is smaller, but it would make a nice peasant shirt. Need to figure that one out. Huh

I made one for gibbous by taking hip measurement and adding 10 inched and 2 for seam allowance, and sewed a tube. Then I took the waist measurement and and found a pair of jeans that was that size and disassembled them. Then I made a series of 2" darts that came about 4" down and attached the two togehter, after putting in a zipper fiasco first. Hence I will use the glue tute.

Then of course I embellished the heck out of it. No pattern, because of my poor sewing skills but the skirt is awesome. I can't post it is for a swap, but if my partner reads this, she knows that is what she is getting. Cool

Can't wait to finish, and send. I'm so darn proud of my two gibbous pieces.

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lovesclutter
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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2010 10:55:27 AM »

Ahh, now they show. Love that first pic, very flattering. Must be my wifi today, been real iffy.
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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2010 11:37:31 AM »

Thanks for all the information EdelC!  Love it!

I realized, after I posted about this skirt on the CAL board, that the last time I made it I was about 40 lbs lighter.  After reviewing the directions this morning I've realized you're totally right, this would not be flattering for my new body shape!  Maybe that's why in my original plans about it, I added the thick waistband with the ties?  Subconsciously I probably realized that elastic would not look great on me at this point in life, lol!

I really love that pattern on your skirt.  It's adorable.  I am not sure if I will do the wrap around style, but on you, it looks great!!   Grin
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edelC
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2010 02:47:06 PM »

thanks guys. in the end I made a second skirt to compare the pattern above, I made a new post (link in my original post above) I think its a better pattern than this one..but there isnt too much difference. Still its probably worth a look if you are thinking about making this skirt.

thanks for the compliments, LC I am looking forward to seeing your gibbous stuff.
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