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Topic: Traditionally Tailored Jacket  (Read 3257 times)
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MrsBowles
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« on: May 15, 2010 09:11:31 AM »

 I just finished an 80 hour Traditional Tailoring Class at our Community College. I'm so happy that I completed my project on time and that it is actually wearable!
The amount of work done by hand in this jacket was mind boggling. I loved doing it, but I now have the posture of an Emperor penguin.





After perfecting the fit in muslin a mere 19 pattern pieces were cut out in wool (with several duplicates for the lining).
The inner structure of a tailored garment is like architecture and sculpture. Shaping hair canvas over the wool and meticulously pad stitching by hand gives beautiful shape to the collar and lapels.
What may seem unnecessarily tedious to some is just heaven to all of us O/C types

All the pattern markings, including grain lines are transferred to the wool in thread:



Here's some of the inner structure:




Bound buttonholes go in early on:



This is how the pad stitching sculpts the wool:




Careful pressing is my obsession with all sewing but it is wonderful how it can shape wool by flattening, shrinking, or rolling it when needed.

The snazzy electric blue lining picks up the blue in the tweed  Shocked


I've never had a jacket feel this comfortable before. Y'all know how great sewing is for making clothes that fit. I especially appreciate it in something this time consuming.
And I finished it just in time for summer  Roll Eyes
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PixieVal
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2010 09:47:29 AM »

Wow, I had no idea so much went into making something like this! That is amazing! And I'm sure you can just pump the A/C up all the time so you can keep on wearing your jacket!
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2010 02:09:31 PM »

This is a beautiful jacket.  80 hours worth of classes sure payed off!
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craftypanties
« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2010 03:09:12 PM »

Wow!  This is absolutely amazing!  Fantastic craftsmanship and a really beautiful jacket - well done!

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MrsBowles
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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2010 04:46:24 PM »

Thanks everyone!
I'd like to think the next one won't take quite as long.  Wink
I'm thinking about making a striped cotton one that I can wear in warmer weather. Today I'm knocking out a floral sundress. I'm in real need of some instant gratification!
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DreamInStitches
« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2010 07:13:26 PM »

Wow, this is amazing! Your jacket turned out so well! Thanks for sharing this.
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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2010 07:47:55 PM »

I love seeing stuff like this. Fantastic work!
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ScotSkipper402
« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2010 07:49:36 PM »

A work of art! You'll wear that forever, and it will always look fabulous.
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katethegreat821
« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2010 09:54:33 PM »

wow this is absolutely amazing, the patience it must have taken is beyond my realm of realization
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2010 03:47:59 AM »

Fantastic work, the work that went into it can be seen in the lovely result of your piece
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rottenlittleboys
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2010 12:10:28 PM »

Beautiful work that will last for years. You are so lucky to be able to take a class like this.
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Tailte
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2010 12:45:48 AM »

Absolutely gorgeous.
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jigdancer
« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2010 01:57:31 PM »

You did a beautiful job. Trust me, all that handwork will pay off, because you'll have that jacket forever, and it will look as good in 10 years as it does today. I took a similar course a lifetime ago, and still have the jacket I made. I used to call it my "drinking jacket" because it could spend an evening crumpled up in a wad at the pub, but a quick shake, and it looked perfect.
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MrsBowles
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« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2010 03:58:23 PM »

WOW Everybody  Grin
Thank you so much for your kind words and praise. It's great to be able to share with fellow artisans who understand what it takes and why we love doing it! It makes me love my jacket even more.
Cheers!
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craftewoman
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« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2010 06:26:24 PM »

Gorgeous! I had no idea so much time and effort went into those. Thanks for sharing.
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TheMistressT
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« Reply #15 on: June 19, 2010 09:38:53 PM »

Another kick-@ss project!  I can't believe I missed seeing your post until now.  Grrrrrr.  I'm enthralled by the details and the time and attention to detail, but my brain goes a bit squishy when I think about doing it myself.  I'm so glad that there are people like you in the world who do it!
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tarriknits
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2010 09:46:02 AM »

cngratulations on some beautifully detailed and precise work.
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GroovaMama
« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2010 07:56:50 PM »

Looks great!
I too have taken an Advanced Garment : TAiloring class..
How about that pad stiching!!!! Took me hours to do the lapesl and the collar.....but it sure does create nice structure....
it's amazing how a jacket that is 75 percent hand sewn can be so durable!
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Miaka
« Reply #18 on: June 22, 2010 01:05:20 AM »

Wow, that's pretty awesome!
I know how much work such a jacket is, I made one for my final exam.
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