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Topic: Puckering princess seams! HELP!  (Read 1524 times)
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alliebeth
« on: May 12, 2010 01:50:21 PM »

So, I did a mock up of a cute dress with a princess seamed bodice and found that while it fit perfectly around, I needed to extend the length of the upper bodice about 2.5" in order for it to hit where I wanted to (just below the boobs instead of ON the boobs). Anyway, I was very careful in adding the length to each of the pattern pieces and then made another mock up and....well...the princess seams look kind of "gappy" and pointy right over the apex(es?). I clipped the tiny v's in the seams and pressed them, but it didn't help at all. I didn't change the position of the apex (it's marked on the pattern) at all, just lengthened downward, so I'm really stumped.

Anybody know how to fix/prevent pointy nips in a princess seam?
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Aislynn
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« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2010 02:05:38 PM »

You might need to take in your curve a bit.  If you re-worked the curve when you added length, it might have gotten bigger.  If you didn't adjust it at all, it may need to be softened at the top.  It's amazing how much of a difference shaving off even 1/8" can make in some very curvy locations.
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Sewers are for ninja turtles--seamstresses are for sewing Wink

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sewnutzz
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2010 03:15:23 PM »

Some tips for sewing a princess seam:

Use a narrower seam allowance and a shorter stitch length (makes for neater turning).

Stitch with the longest edge on the bottom (against the feeddogs).  The feeddogs will ease the longer curve just a bit.

Clip the seam allowance close to the seam (that is why you stitched with a shorter length, so you can clip close to the stitching).

Press using a pressing ham.

If you have altered your pattern, check that the _seam_ lines of the two pattern pieces are the same length, not the cutting line (the cutting line of one will be longer).

Hope this helps.
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