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Topic: Works-in-progress  (Read 18264 times)
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Blitherypoop
« Reply #80 on: August 31, 2010 04:39:15 PM »

Not exactly "in-prog" but also not a complete project.  I was gonna make pasta for a swap, but it turned out to be the kind where you make the same thing for everyone, not random one-on-one... so this would take too long.



....now I have about three weeks to make 15 of.... something.  Eep!
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nougatgee
« Reply #81 on: August 31, 2010 08:44:46 PM »

so cool blithery - your patience and skill astound me!
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Blitherypoop
« Reply #82 on: September 01, 2010 04:15:11 AM »

Thanks.  : )  These were a pain and a half too.  I forgot to mention above, they're not polymer clay (it would be too fragile), they're cold porcelain.  I had so many problems with it!  It tends to curl while drying, so the spagetti took some trying to get it to keep straight.  Then trying to wrap the fusili spirals around one pin... using another pin... horrible!  I sat there swearing at it more than anything else.  lol
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nougatgee
« Reply #83 on: September 01, 2010 05:25:44 AM »

and how many more did you say you have to make??!!!
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Blitherypoop
« Reply #84 on: September 01, 2010 05:31:11 AM »

I gave up on doing them for the swap.  I just need to figure out what to make.  It has to have a kitchen theme... but that's sooo open, you know?  I don't know if I'll do food or dishes or pans or what.  I might try making some "cast iron" pans... dunno.
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Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #85 on: September 01, 2010 10:19:53 AM »

Blithery, if there is a next time, you could try making those little coils of pasta with polymer clay as long as you use a strong brand (no Sculpey) or even the Bake and Bend polymer clay or a mix, and bake well.  Thin polymer clay from those other brands are pretty strong, especially used like this, and baked strings of have even been crocheted with as long as any original direction of the curves while baking aren't forced to go other directions.

So for this I'm guessing a very long piece could be extruded with a clay gun (or rolled by hand), then laid on a work surface diagonally.  A skewer or piece of wire or something else long and thin could be rolled over the string so the string would wrap around it (if the skewer were wood or had a little release, the coils could probably be "snugged" together more if necessary).  Or roll over with the string straight, then pull the coils apart a bit from the ends.  Bake well, then cut the squiggle apart every few wrap-arounds with a pointed blade or with scissors, while warm or after cooling, on rod or off.  There are a few more tips on making polymer clay "coils" on this page too, and maybe more on the Beads page:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/claygun.htm ...click on Weaving, Crochet & Braiding, then scroll down to subcategory on Springs & Coils
« Last Edit: September 01, 2010 10:31:47 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Blitherypoop
« Reply #86 on: September 01, 2010 11:23:41 AM »

I only ever use Fimo, both types.  The extreme thinness of these.... Fimo would almost definitely crumble.  I've had enough "heartbreak" projects that have turned to dust or broken in half, I wasn't even gonna try.  Even the chips I make have to be treated with care.  Fimo is resilient stuff, but it has its limits.  The actual clay on the spirals is less than a millimeter thick and Fimo just can't compete with cold porcelain's ability to take stress at that thinness.  You can smear it so thin that you can almost see right through it and if you can get it off the work surface it will actually bend a bit instead of crumbling right into little chips like Fimo does.  The edge of Fimo's resilience seems to be about 1-2mm, in my experience anyway.

They're also far smaller than any extruder disk I've ever seen.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2010 12:12:31 PM by Blitherypoop » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #87 on: September 02, 2010 08:19:58 AM »

Quote
 The actual clay on the spirals is less than a millimeter thick.... They're also far smaller than any extruder disk I've ever seen...

Have you checked out any of the regular cheapie clay guns?  About 20 discs are included with those, and measuring just now, the smallest opening I see in a single-hole disk is 1 mm...the opening in just one hole of the 19-multi-hole disk is less than 1 mm and one brand has even smaller ones.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB/tools/6d01.jpg

Quote
I only ever use Fimo, both types..... Fimo would almost definitely crumble... I wasn't even gonna try...You can smear it so thin that you can almost see right through it

As for the clay, I don't think of Fimo Soft as all that strong and definitely not in the same league with FimoClassic.  I think of FS as being between the really brittle ones like Sculpey III, etc, and the "strong" ones like FimoClassic, Kato, Premo, and perhaps Cernit.  As long as those are baked well, sheets of them can just be bent back and forth like leather and are even difficult to tear intentionally.  Round logs might break a little sooner though, but because these pasta coils are so small and wouldn't receive much stress and because they're compact so have a kind of inner support, etc,  I assume that they'd be plenty strong enough for something like this.  
However, I don't know a lot about the newest formulations of all the brands and their lines so it could be that the kind of strength that FimoClassic, Kato, Premo or Cernit used to have has been compromised along with some of the other ways they've been compromised with those changes.

Quote
and if you can get it off the work surface it will actually bend a bit instead of crumbling right into little chips like Fimo does.

Are you talking about removing a very thin "smeared" sheet of polymer clay while it's still raw, or after curing if on an oven-safe work surface?  If you mean after thorough conditioning and thorough polymerization, the older versions of those clays wouldn't break into little chips, or break at all, at least from my experience.  Again, not sure what FimoSoft would do, or actually any of the new reformulations though!

« Last Edit: September 02, 2010 08:29:48 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Blitherypoop
« Reply #88 on: September 02, 2010 09:09:46 AM »

I'm just writing from personal experiance.  I've had enough pieces break.  I don't remember if they're soft or classic.

I have one of the regular cheap extruders and none of the disks are even close to small enough.  Which brand are the ones in your photo?

I tried making little flowers once, smearing the petals thin... they broke.  Sad  I've had tortillas and even plates a few mm thick crack.  Cold porcelain is a pain to work with, but it doesn't break unless you're outright trying....and even then it generally bends instead.  When I'm possibly making this stuff to sell or swap I have to be sure it won't break in shipping.
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Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #89 on: September 03, 2010 08:31:50 AM »

Quote
I have one of the regular cheap extruders and none of the disks are even close to small enough.  Which brand are the ones in your photo?

I have 3 clay guns... one is a Kemper, one is by "Sculpey," and can't remember if the other one is an older Kemper or a different brand (maybe just rebranded, like Darice). They're just the ones hanging by the clay at Michaels, etc, that cost $10--or at least used to.
 
When I do a Google Image Search for the phrase "clay gun" http://images.google.com/images?q=clay+gun ,
most of the extruders that come up look like mine, but there are a few larger ones too and a few that have been manufactured in the past few years by other companies like Makins (several types and sets of extra disks) primarily for their air-dry clays), and even polymerclayexpress, etc, and one person who makes dies for quilt canes.  I see the Sugarcraft icing extruder too that some clayers use.
Does your gun look like the main ones there, and what disks did it come with?

(There are a few pics of my whole clay gun(s?) being used in various ways including in my bellows pusher, in this album if you want to see them:
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB/tools
The multi-hole die that's extruding ropes of clay in one of those pics is the die with fewer/larger holes, I believe, not the one where the holes I measured were less than 1 mm.)

Quote
I'm just writing from personal experiance....I don't remember if they're soft or classic.

(I really can't say what FimoSoft is or isn't able to do though because it's just not as "good" in many ways as FimoClassic or the other brands I mentioned, and I don't use it myself.)

Quote
I tried making little flowers once, smearing the petals thin... they broke.  I've had tortillas and even plates a few mm thick crack.

Items a few mm thick shouldn't crack, with the stronger clays anyway.  Just don't understand why that would happen for you if you were using FimoClassic.  The "smeared" petals could be different, but could also depend on how well they were conditioned and cured, exactly how they "project" out, and how much and type of stress they get (which would be the same considerations for the plates/tortillas too).

Do you have any pics of the plates or tortillas, or even the flowers, that would show their exact shape, size, etc, and use...might be able to guess better if seeing details.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2010 08:56:02 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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