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Topic: Hand-Embroidery on Satin  (Read 1065 times)
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sheena.lee
« on: February 16, 2010 03:06:32 PM »

Hey everyone Smiley

For a school project in my bookmaking class, I need to make a livre-objet, an object that's a book.  I decided to make a wedding dress with text about the history and significance of wedding dresses hand-embroidered on it (crazy, I know.. but I'm keeping the text to a minimum and the dress VERY simple!)

Anyway, I'm pretty new to embroidery but the only way I see this project working is if I use embroidery for the lettering - any other type of imagine transfer technique would just look awful I think, and won't give the elegant effect I'm going for.  For the dress, I bought this white satin, and I'm not sure how to embroider on it.  I did a few tests but the fabric is really moody.  The embroidery hoop leaves ugly creases (ironing satin is another issue - it ends up wrinkled no matter what) and the fabric moves around quite a bit.  I looked on Google, but since satin stitch is a common type of stitch for hand-embroidery, the keywords satin and embroidery give me nothing!

My question is, is there another way to embroider without a hoop? Or a way to effectively iron satin?  I'm going to have to embroider AFTER the dress is made, since I'm studying graphic design there's a huge emphasis on typography and text placement..

Any other tips before I get started?  The project is due in only 4 weeks (March 11th), and I'm only able to start on Friday or Saturday...  I am crazyyy, I know!

Thanks for any help Smiley
« Last Edit: February 16, 2010 03:08:28 PM by sheena.lee » THIS ROCKS   Logged
lisalady161
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« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2010 05:51:07 AM »

You can do this!  I've worked with satin quite a bit and here is what I've learned:

To press, make sure your ironing board is well padded, and use a pressing cloth (like a clean thin towel) over the satin. Use medium heat and go slooowwwww with that iron, lifting it frequently to make sure it's not scorching.

To stitch, use a medium weight fusing underneath that is the same size as your piece, so you can hoop it and the satin together.  This will keep the satin from sliding so much. A smooth plastic hoop is best (wood can snag the satin). A Q-snap would be really good for this project.

Transfer the design itself onto tear-away or dissolving interfacing (Solvy is great brand for this). That will give the satin added stability and helps to prevent fabric pucker.

Make sure your needle is only big enough to get the floss into it and that it's sharp, sharp, sharp! I'd use only 2 strands of floss. Make sure your floss is separated, and you may want to run it very lightly through some thread wonder or beeswax to make it less lightly to tangle and knot.

Make your design simple and take your time stitching...satin can run and snag if it's handled too roughly.

A little babying will make for a beautiful result!  Please post it when you're done!
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sheena.lee
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2010 09:05:36 AM »

Wow thank you sooo much for all the info!!

Basically, when I'm stitching, I would have the fusing underneath and the tear-away/dissolving interfacing on top?

I'll definitely be posting it when it's done!
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lisalady161
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« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2010 08:17:40 PM »

Quote
Basically, when I'm stitching, I would have the fusing underneath and the tear-away/dissolving interfacing on top?

Yes, that's what I meant.  I have 'drawn' on satin with pencils and pens, and sometimes you can't get the original ink out. So a solvy-type stabilizer works best.
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'First your pants, then your shoes' - Gary Larson, The Far Side
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