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Topic: Pattern adjustment - taking a bodice up 4 or 5 cup sizes  (Read 2149 times)
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Kitten Wrangler
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« on: January 29, 2010 02:54:13 AM »

I'm altering a bodice piece for a dress I want to make, following these instructions:

http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/EmpireFBA/index.html

Thing is - you know how dress patterns are designed for a B cup? I'm an F/FF/G cup (at last measure) When I separate the pieces, I need to spread the vertical slash apart by 4 inches. This does HUGELY weird things to the armhole - it's now an acute angle, and there's a small savannah-worth of fabric that I need to take in as a dart on the side seam.

Does this sound right? Is there something extra special I need to do to accommodate such a large increase in cup size? I can give photos if you like, and I'm going to donate an evening to making a muslin, but if it doesn't work, then I'm stuck for ideas.
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professionalpineapple
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2010 10:37:33 AM »

Would it be possible to change the darts into princess seams? You can add a little bit for the extra space to each side, and you don't end up with horrifically large darts, just curvy seams. Princess seams are also a little bit easier to fiddle with the fit once you sew the garment up, too.
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Kitten Wrangler
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2010 03:44:17 PM »

Seeing as muslin #1 is almost a failure, I might try making princess seams. Do you recommend any online tutes?
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professionalpineapple
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2010 04:28:26 PM »

I like this one, but they're all mostly the same technique.

http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/change-darts-to-princess-seams
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desm88
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2010 08:13:22 PM »

You'll pretty much have to slash and spread the whole inside of your bodice. Draw a line straight up from your under bust dart, and another line out from your side bust dart (the red lines in fabulous paint picture below). Then spread these pieces apart, as on the right, and secure them in a comfortable place over your bust. retrace onto a new piece of paper/muslin and add new darts (the red lines on the right drawing).



hope that works!
« Last Edit: February 05, 2010 08:17:30 PM by desm88 » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Taniquel
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2010 12:31:05 AM »

You need to make multiple darts. My wedding dress was empire line, I was an F cup at the time, the original pattern didn't have any darts at all, I put in a horizontal and a vertical dart. You can also go with two horizontal (or vertical) darts, spaced an inch or so apart. You don't want too much fabric in any one dart.
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