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Topic: Replicating this anthropologie top: pleating question & seam question  (Read 1313 times)
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serpent jewel
« on: December 09, 2009 12:29:51 PM »

So, like the majority of people, I love anthropologie but it is waaaaay out of my price range. I want to try and make a knock-off of this particular top:

My question is: how are the pleats near the neckline made? As I illustrated on the picture, the pleats on the bottom half of the shirt are normal, in that they continue all the way down the fabric. The top pleats however, seem to just start out of a particular spot...how?? Also, at first I thought the top was just one continuous piece that was warped to one side and sewn in the middle to hold it down/create a waist, but now I'm wondering if it's actually two separate pieces that are matched up and sewn.

Sorry if I'm just overthinking this and there's some ridiculously simple solution I overlooked.

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« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2009 02:59:38 PM »

I think it's all in the ironing of the pleats.  They ironed the top ones so that they stopped while leaving the bottom ones to drape. 

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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2009 06:02:22 PM »

I agree that the pleats look like they're just ironed.  However, for the seams, look at the left side area.  You'll see a seam.  So the left front/side is all one piece.  Then the right front/side is two pieces, with a horizontal seam holding the pleats.  It may be one piece that's got a faux center seam, but either way, it'll look the same.  Hope that helps!

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serpent jewel
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2009 12:12:31 AM »

Thank you guys so much!! I will definitely try ironing.... didn't think of that at all. And thanks for pointing out the left seam! Totally overlooked that

« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2009 07:54:37 AM »

I think there is actually a difference.  If you took a basic tank pattern, cut through it vertically, and spread it, you would get a pleat.  If you wanted to retain width at the neckline, you would have to fold that pleat and sew it down.  However, you can make pleats that "stop" near the neckline by again cutting the pattern, but this time keeping the upper edge of the neckline together, while spreading the lower part.  This will come out looking similar to a dart, but instead of sewing the dart, you fold the pleat.  Does that make sense?  The bottom pleats will not be "dart-like" but will remain open as they go down, so you get some extra width at the hem.  Later, I can try to find a diagram or draw one quickly if it's not clear.

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« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2010 03:02:55 AM »

This is lovely! What they've done is this:
Taken an ordinary tank style, then cut a triangle shape from the right shoulder, into the waist, and then out again to the hem. then they inserted a rectangle at an angle to make up the neckline and left side. This has made a very baggy tank.
Then, they've ironed the triangles/pleats into the rectangle, stitching them down to take up the slack.
I suspect they've made a similar triangluar side seam at the back to create one forward-angled pleat.
This could problably be easily reconned from an existing tank. Or, if you make from scratch, make it as above, then use a dummy (or friend) to mark off the bottom hem to get it even.

Good luck!
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2010 11:31:04 AM »

have a look at http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-to-draft-a-leaf-pleated-bodice

sort of a similar effect, and may help out, if you making your own pattern rather then reconning
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