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Topic: Diamond Glaze  (Read 5355 times)
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« on: January 17, 2010 11:03:16 AM »

For Christmas 2010 I want to try to make scrabble tile pendants for all my female relatives/ friends as they seem easy and also cheap lol. I have heard numerous people mention Diamond Glaze and have a few questions.

1. Is it really that good? Is there something else I should use instead?

2. What size bottle would be best, I am only making 15 or so necklaces and doubt I would make more. Is the 2oz bottle enough for this? Or can the diamond glaze be used for other things so I am better off getting the larger bottle? (I am sure it has other uses I am just drawing a blank as to what they could be right now!)
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« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2010 02:25:23 PM »

I've been using Diamond Glaze for the glass tile pendents I have been using too, and I think others have been using it for things like filling bezels on rings, etc.  I read an article on various resins in a recent jewelry magazine, and there are others I would like to try, but Diamond Glaze is easy to use and accessible to me.  However, it doesn't cure rock solid, and will yellow over time it would look - but for things like adding a finish to pendents, it sounds like it would do the job.  BTW, I have the small bottle and have probably done a good 25 or so glass pendents.  Many are rectangular shaped and bigger than a scrabble tile, and I used them to adher origami paper to the pendent, and add a shiny finish to the back.  So the small bottle will probably do for 15 scrabble pendents.
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« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2010 11:10:35 AM »

Diamond Glaze is a "dimensional white glue" (not a resin) so it will work fairly well when you want a domed clear finish on top of something that's flat and contained.  But since it is basically a white glue, its dried surface won't be as "hard" as some other clear finishes so will be more easily susceptible to scratching or perhaps to later cloudiness from moisture exposure.  
DG (and similar brands of the same thing) suggests using something like a clear polyurethane coat on top of the dried DG to give more hardness and protection, and their newer version DG3 does dry a little harder but still not as hard as polyurethane.  If your glaze is surrounded by a higher frame or something, that scratchability problem won't be as serious.
(Regular white glues are often used for clear coatings too if you don't need doming, like "decoupage mediums," or just regular PVA-white glues usually thinned down.)

A two-part clear epoxy resin (Envirotex Lite, e.g.) will also dome a bit on flat surfaces but not when the flat surface being coated is inside a taller frame ... in that case, the very top edges of the resin will stay on those framing "walls" when the resin shrinks its tiny bit and therefore the resin will actually be higher on the edges than the center area.  If the flat surface is free-standing though (e.g., sitting on a stack of pennies or something) and the epoxy is applied slowly, the surface tension will allow it to dome a bit and the cured resin coating will end up with rounded edges.
Btw, the new "tweaked" epoxy resin called Easy Cast can end up somewhat flexible and with a softer surface than regular epoxy resins, esp. if it's exposed to body heat or any heat.
It can be good to put a coat of polyurethane on top of epoxy resins too, but less important than on dimensional white glues.
(2-part epoxy glues can work in the same way but are a little thicker, and some brands won't end up as clear --Devcon's 20 Ton 30-min setting one is good, I hear.)

Depending on what you're doing and the thickness of clear coating you want, you might want to use just plain polyurethane from the beginning or perhaps clear fingernail polish, or use one of the other possibilities (even a clear embossing powder like UTEE/etc, though has the same scratchability problems).
If you use a UV-resistant polyurethane like the Varathane brand, it and whatever is underneath it won't yellow if it would have otherwise.

If you want to read a bit more about dimensional white glues, or polyurethanes, etc., check out this page at my site (we use many of these things on polymer clay too, or on images in or on polymer clay):
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm
And if you want to read about epoxy resins (used as coatings, or inside "cells," etc), check out this page:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm

HTH,

Diane B.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2010 11:18:26 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2010 05:44:03 PM »

I personally dont like to use diamond glaze..I havent really liked how the end result look..it probably is just me though Smiley

I use resin..
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2010 09:14:18 PM »

Thanks for all your help. I think I am going to request a sample and then decide if I want to buy a larger amount.
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« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2010 06:49:22 AM »

Much like smittenheart, I do not care for Diamond Glaze.  I recommend resin especially f it is a deep item that is being filled.
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2010 03:03:32 PM »

I just made my first round of scrabble pendants! Diamond Glaze wasn't available where I live so I used Aleene's Paper Glaze and it worked perfectly well to create that dimensional layer.
I found this tute really helpful:
http://www.makeandtakes.com/links/scrabble-tile-pendant-tutorial
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2010 05:42:34 PM »

I have tried lots of different coatings on my altered scrabble tiles and settled on a clear epoxy sticker exactly the size of a scrabble tile. I just glue down my image and then adhere the epoxy sticker to the image. Voila!   

Here is a pic of my scrabble tiles. On top are bottle caps and the bottom charms are the scrabble tiles. 
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2495/3982360971_72468b56e6_o.jpg
 
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« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2010 01:15:47 PM »

I do not like Diamond Glaze, but haven't used it in years, so maybe it's improved. I love EnviroTex for best results. Cheesy
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