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Topic: Altered McCalls M5806 for Rehearsal Dinner  (Read 3647 times)
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« on: December 17, 2009 07:51:34 PM »

Hey all! This is my 2nd biggest project ever! My first was this same dress for my friend's wedding (still unfinished).

This is going to be my other friend's rehearsal dinner dress. BUT, question - first, what is this "technique" called? pleated? not sure. secondly, how do I go about achieving this type of bodice from the pattern for McCalls M5806??

Here's what the bodice and midriff should look like (directly from Jim Helm):

And this is the original McCalls M5806 sketch:

I'm totally lost on how to -
1. expand the pattern piece to accommodate this "pleated-ness"
2. pleat the bodice in a similar fashion (it looks like it slants upwards on the side seams...right? not sure)

unfortunately that's the best pic of the Jim Helm dress I could find! Sad

please help! any suggestions or advice is much appreciated! Smiley

« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2009 06:07:05 AM »

I think you should cut the pattern out as is using a satin or muslin fabric (your choice) then hand pleat and stitch the top fabric onto that base.
This is probably easiest to do on a dress form. If you must use a live model be careful with the pins.
This is a beautiful dress. The best of luck. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2009 04:33:17 PM »

As far as expanding the pattern piece to accommodate the extra fabric, you should cut the pattern horizontally at equal intervals.  Then add scrap paper at the cuts, making sure that you are adding new paper the same width as the strips you cut the pattern into.  Keep track of all the original pattern markings, and add lines on the back of the fabric for your pleating lines. 
Before you chop up the good fabric, practice with scrap fabric so you get the hang of things.  By the way, the pleats probably run parallel, but the shapeliness of the model makes the pleats look "distorted" so to speak.  This is another reason why you'd want to practice before jut jumping in; you can figure out what needs to be done with the pleats, etc. to get them to look the way you want.  Good luck!

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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2010 07:57:18 PM »

Thanks for all the advice!!! I finished the dress!! Here are some pics Smiley



Front Detail

And modeled by the bride:
« Last Edit: February 23, 2010 07:58:38 PM by perlabella » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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