OK, so a tutorial was requested for the medieval Indian cholis I've been making, so here it is! The pattern I used can be found here:http://www.pennib.net/FeoragDubh/Patterns/choli203.gif
But it IS a bit confusing, so I'll try to explain it as best I can. The hardest part is the measurements and doing the math, but it's all explained on the pattern, so once that's done, you're halfway there. Once you've done all your measurements, fold a piece of fabric in half (the two sides of your choli are virtually identical, so it would behoove you to do this) and cut out the pieces.http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0824.JPG
I like to start with the cups. First, take a top cup and a bottom cup piece, and place them so that the taller side of the bottom cup is on the same side as the shorter side of the top cup, like this picture:http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0825.JPG
Now, this is very important: The picture above shows the piece that will be covering your right boob. To make the left boob, you do exactly what you've done, but MIRRORED. In fact, every piece of this choli you make must be mirrored for the left side, or else you will end up with two right sides of the choli, and you will have to put your head through a block of cement. This is what the left side should look like:http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0826.JPG
Woohoo, mirrored! Remember to do that, always, forever. OK, but just in case you're not confused yet, this is what the choli should look like from the outside. Therefore, you must turn it around and pin it on the other side.http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0827.JPG
That's the right boob still.
Now you're ready to start the sleeves. Take each sleeve (mirroring each other of course) and position it so that the side with the smaller cut taken out of the corner is farther away from you. Then position the gusset so that the right angle is right up against the larger cutout piece. The longer arm of the gusset must be against the edge of the sleeve. Maybe a picture will help:http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0828.JPG
However, we want the seam to not show, so fold that edge of the sleeve back on top of itself and pin the gusset like so:http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0829.JPG
Sew everything you've pinned so far.
Now you're going to attatch the side panels. Position the side panel horizontally so that its taller edge is against the taller side of the bottom cup.http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0830.JPG
Do that for both sides.
Finishing the sleeves is a bit tricky. Flip the sleeve over and pin so that the longer gusset edge, and a bit of the sleeve itself, is pinned to the opposite side of the sleeve, so that all the seams will be on the same side. This is how the sleeve should look inside out: http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0831.JPG
You will notice that now the end of the sleeve that is NOT going to be the cuff (meaning, the one that looks all funky and jacked up) has several sections to it. The large section should be attatched to the top cup, then just continue pinning so that the sleeve is sewn all the way down to the side panel.http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0832.JPG
What? Of course I used green thread on maroon cloth so that you guys could better see my seams. Also, I was too lazy to rethread the machine.http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0833.JPG
If you're done that for both sides, you're ready to attatch the two sides of the choli together! This is an exciting moment. Give yourself a pat on the back, maybe have a cup of tea to regain some small spark of your sanity.
To attatch the two sides, simply sew the two cups together at the bottom cup. http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0834.JPG
You're done! All you need to do now is attatch the straps. Most people just use extra scraps of cloth, but I like to use trim. I usually like to make 3 sets of straps, ever since I fell while wearing one and my two sets of straps both ripped off. http://usera.imagecave.com/grrimscary/cholis/HPIM0836.JPG
Ta-da! Your very own choli. Wear with care.
Thanks for looking!