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Topic: Suggestions on how to hem polyester shantung  (Read 5295 times)
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TeaCouture
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« on: June 30, 2009 02:52:49 PM »

I've never really hemmed a evening gown type garment before- any suggestions on how to make it look pretty? I was thinking about getting a rolled hemming foot for my machine- how do you think that will look?

Or if you have better instructions/tutorial I'd be glad to entertain them

Thanks!

ps misspelled title fixed  Wink
« Last Edit: July 01, 2009 09:05:55 PM by TeaCouture » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2009 12:51:36 PM »

So It seems I'll have to hand hem the dress and overskirt...

I've found a good picture tutorial and am going to look at some video's when I get home...

I do have a question... how do you keep the fabric from shifting as you are hemming- if that makes sense... I'm worried that I'll hem it and that when I go to press it I'll find I accidentally pulled a little too much there or the fabric moved so I'd get an uneven hem...

Heh and I thought this would be easy to explain... hrm...

Well let's see if anyone understand my logic... and if you do... I'm very very scared  Cheesy
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« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2009 04:15:14 PM »

What kind of hem are you doing? I guess, what pictures and videos are you following. Either the instructions you are following will answer your question, or not...if not I am slightly confused by your question and can only answer it once I know what you are trying to do.
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TeaCouture
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« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2009 04:48:27 PM »

I'm making Butterick 5032- eventually all the bits but for now the pencil skirt and hopefully overskirt.


As far as what kind of hem- the pattern calls for a 2" hem on the pattern piece- haven't gotten past that as I'm not at the hemming stage  Wink

Really I'd like info on whatever technique/tools/tutorials anyone can suggest to make the appropriate hem for the dress and the fabric Wink I was thinking about getting a rolled hem foot for my machine but someone suggested it wasn't the appropriate hemming technique... if I can so this on my machine it would be tons easier/faster- although I only have tomorrow night and not really- so hand hemming might be my only option as I can do it where ever I happen to be.

I'll be looking at the the hand stitched hem video from ehow.com (they have an awesome invisible zipper tutorial) and since the gal giving the zipper tute kept saying expert village I noticed another video link to expert village- so I'll watch that too (I googled 'hand sewn hemming' and it's the first two tutorials)

The pictures are just how to do the differnt types of hand sewn hem stiches-it's here

and is there a way to make a word a hyperlink instead of having the whole link?

Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 01, 2009 06:19:52 PM by TeaCouture » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2009 05:20:52 PM »

If you're going to press the hem after you're done, I usually fold up the hem, pin it, press it, then sew it. Since the hem is already pressed where you want it to be, it's easier to keep it from shifting. Sometimes I also draw a line where the edge of the fabric will be on the inside of the garment so I have something to follow when hemming.
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hoxierice
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« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2009 05:32:02 PM »

First to your last question yes! [ url=whateverthelinkis ]the word(s) you want the link to be[/url] (I put a space around the [ ] so it would show up as it did and not trying to be a link.

So, if you are following the pattern, you have a 2" hem allowance. So you go to the iron and press the hem up 2". Then if you haven't finished the edges you fold and press the raw edge under. And pin, pin so your 2" hem stays, pin so your folded raw edges stay. Then you sew however you want to. That is how you make sure your hem stays even. One thing to keep in mind is that unless the pattern has corrected for this, if the skirt is way angled, starts of skinny and gets really full, when you press up the hem you might have more hem circumference than skirt circumference. This is fine just do your best, make little pleats in the hem. Just make sure it looks good on the outside.

One thing I like to do, (if I ever had a clothing line it is what I would to to make my line "unique") but isn't good for some circumstances, if you will ever have to let down the skirt, or you have sheer or really flowey fabric is ignore what I said above and get some bias tape, in a matching or fun contrasting color (what I like to do). Cut the skirt 1/4" below your desired hem line. Unfold the bias tape place the edge of the bias tape on the edge of the skirt. Stitch in the fold line of the bias tape and turn the bais tape to the inside/press and sew, by hand or machine.

I think what you want to be looking for is a blind hem foot, not a rolled hem foot, if you want to hem by machine.

Sorry for the repeat info, typing too slow...
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TeaCouture
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« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2009 06:11:36 PM »

Thanks I'll have to give the url thing a try  Wink

I have a serger so the raw edge has been finished.

As far as the most appropriate way to hem I just want it to look good  Tongue so because it's more formal I'm guessing you don't really want the hem to show as a line of stitching- a blind type stich is more appropriate- man I hate that word... hehe... at times I"m highly inappropriate ;-p

so would the blind foot still work with a 2" seam allowance- and why is it so big?

I like the idea of marking the edge of the fabric!
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2009 06:30:10 PM »

2" is standard. If you read the instructions it will probably tell you to press up the hem 2" then press the raw edge under some amount.  (Which you don't need to do if you have a serger). 2" gives you room to lengthen the skirt if you need to, it also, in some cases, creates a weight at the hem that helps the skirt hang. While this isn't something I ever worry about (unless I do for a specific reason), it is a reason for the big hem.

A blind hem foot is confusing to get your mind around. I am sure there must be videos. Ahh Here is one. I haven't watched it, but whatever. But basically you press and pin your hem. A way a friend of mine remembers is to pin perpendicular to the hem, where the pin points down, to the finished hem edge. Then you set it up under your machine with the wrong side of the fabric up fold the skirt away from the hem you have pinned. Your pin heads will be pointing to your machine and the body of the fabric will be pointing away from your machine. Yeah, not good for the word explanations. Check out the clip, or google blind hem foot. Yes, the blind hem foot is easily usable with a 2" hem.
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TeaCouture
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2009 06:36:53 PM »

Heh that's the foot I'll need for my machine- I have Bernina's

Hrm... I think that kind of makes sense- I may go to the store tomorrow and see about picking it up... work may just have to wait ;-p *cough cough*
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2009 05:56:20 AM »

You could always do a blind-stitch by hand.  Here's a link:  http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2009/03/howto_hand_sew_a_blind_hem.html

It really doesn't take a huge amount of time, because they're relatively large stitches.

One thing my stepmom used to do was to use fusible hem tape to hold her hem in while she hand-stitched it.  I'm not sure how that would work with your fabric, but it's terrific for cotton!
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