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Topic: Shampoo bar! (Recipe plus guide of sorts)  (Read 57336 times)
Tags for this thread: shampoo , cp_soap , cold_process_soap , recipe , tutorial  Add new tag
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Nymeria
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« on: May 31, 2009 06:03:34 PM »

Okay so here is my shampoo bar I made this week. It is scented strawberry shortcake, but the strawberry scent is so light I think I'm imagining it's there, lol. The fresh baked bread scent is very nice, but not what I had intended. The strawberry DID discolor beige, which makes this look kind of like homemade strawberry preserves or something...

This is an all-time favorite of mine and people go bananas over it. Enjoy! (this is NOT the best picture and I will explain WHY later in post...)



Giving credit where it is (most likely) due: This recipe is dog-earred and tattered in my soap journal so I cannot be certain from where I got it, but I think it may have been Susan Miller Cavitch. It was so many years ago!!

First off, what is a shampoo bar? Quite simply it's a bar of soap specially formulated for your hair. IMHO, you may use a shampoo bar on your body (I don't because I like to make it last longer using it just on my hair), but you should not use a body bar on your hair. The reason is that shampoo bars are not only supposed to clean your hair, but also moisturize and condition your scalp. With a good shampoo bar (*cough* yes, I throw this in that category, *cough*) you should not need a conditioner. Though for people who have really, really, really dry hair, or chemically abused hair, a conditioner will probably still be necessary. But for normal-oily folks, this is all you need!

A note about this recipe: This recipe creates what is initially a VERY soft soap. Looking at the recipe you're probably thinking "Holy cow, that's soft!" and it is true in the initial stages. The secret to making this shampoo bar is patience. Considering that I am inherently impatient, I figure if I can make this bar, ANYONE can make this bar!!

Recipe:

6.9oz. lye*
19oz. distilled water

3oz. avocado oil
4oz. wheat germ oil
9oz. castor oil
2oz. jojoba oil
16oz. coconut oil
14oz. vegetable shortening (or palm oil or beef tallow)
1oz. mango butter
2oz. cocoa butter

For detailed instructions on the cold process method, please see Ohhappyday's lovely tutorial. Follow all of the instructions up until it comes time to unmold.

Leave the soap in the mold for at least 48 hours. If you are using a traditional loaf or slab mold, lift the soap liner (with the soap) out of the mold and allow to sit for another 48 hours before you attempt to cut it. For the above batch I used my new Kelsei mold and was not pleased with the results. Because it is so soft, pulling out the dividers was a bear and because the soap is so darn soft, well... you can see in the above picture the bars are not as pretty as they could be. But I digress... Once you cut the bars, carefully move them to a curing rack. What do I mean by careful? If you put too much pressure you will squish them with your fingers. I had to throw one bar away because it was too smooshed.

Do NOT be alarmed or turned off by how soft this bar is. I've shared this recipe with others in the past had had people call me saying that it failed because it was so soft. Once the water begins to evaporate over the next month, the bar will get hard. As mentioned, it just takes some patience!

*Yes this does put this bar of soap in the 8% excess fat range which is higher than I usually like to soap. But because this bar needs to pull double duty of cleansing and really moisturizing, I find this works best.
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2009 06:38:18 PM »

girl..I love it..I HAVE to try it..

awesome..

I have tried so many shampoo bars but I havent found one that makes me happy Smiley
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JadedMoonlight
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2009 06:42:10 PM »

xD I've been using shampoo bars for the last 6+ months now - they're what got me interested in soapmaking in the first place. Really cool stuff, it just might take some getting used to.

Strawberry shortcake sounds divine. Mmm....

Weird! I just realized you wrote 8% superfat... yet many of the other shampoo bar makers that I've talked to told me they did a 3%.  Then again, my scalp tends to run super-oily, so it's probably for the better? I'll have to try a higher superfatted bar sometime.
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« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2009 10:38:13 PM »

Yummy! Sounds so good. I hate when you cut it when it's too soft (or pull the dividers out evidently) and it gets that weird pulling stickiness on the sides instead of a clean cut Sad

Weird! I just realized you wrote 8% superfat... yet many of the other shampoo bar makers that I've talked to told me they did a 3%.  Then again, my scalp tends to run super-oily, so it's probably for the better? I'll have to try a higher superfatted bar sometime.

I think a very typical lye discount is 5-8%....personally I think 3% is going to be super drying and potentially unsafe (if the measurements are the tiniest bit off you could have a lye heavy bar)  and wouldn't buy or use soap that was at that level...the soap calculator that I usually use actually gives a warning about using less than 4% excess fat.
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« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2009 12:35:04 AM »

thanks for sharing recipe!
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« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2009 11:19:56 AM »

This sounds so good and I know it probably makes your hair feel good.  I've always heard bad things about lye though.  Is it safe for hair??
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« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2009 11:26:33 AM »

carmencrafter..what 'bad' things have you heard about lye?? just wondering??

you need lye to make ALL soaps..once the chemical reaction of making soap happens(saponification) there is NO active lye left in the soap...

so a properly made recipe is certainly awesome in hair..
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Soap licking is dangerous..please dont try it at home

will trade some soap for a superhero cape which will be used by the kid in my avatar ^^
Nymeria
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« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2009 11:35:14 AM »

As a chemical, plain, raw lye is bad. (See: Fight Club)

Lye is what makes soap, soap! The reaction that takes place between the base (lye) and the acids (oils & fats) is called saponification and it makes soap. As Smitten said, if a recipe is done properly, there is no lye in the actual soap. Isn't chemistry cool? Smiley

ETA: Most of the bad things you hear about lye are urban legends born from misunderstanding. When people talk about old fashion country soaps that "took your skin off," they were probably talking about old fashioned cleaning products that people made and called soap. My husband's grandmother's mother often made a soap-like concoction involving Comet & Borax. That WOULD take your skin off!

But anything about lye soaps is just hogwash. Smiley
« Last Edit: June 01, 2009 11:36:50 AM by Nymeria » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2009 07:42:34 AM »

Thanks for the clarification nymeria and smittenheart. 
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JadedMoonlight
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2009 11:59:35 PM »

Oh... hahaha. Maybe I heard that there was a 3% difference between the bars, hahaha. Total possibility, because I'm too often busy sniffing the soaps instead of actually listening to the people. ^^"

Interesting recipe, nonetheless. What's mango butter like? And why cocoa butter (aka, isn't that fairly heavy-ish?)? Or at least, it's much too heavy for much of my body.
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cyens
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2010 06:32:00 PM »

Quote
ETA: Most of the bad things you hear about lye are urban legends born from misunderstanding. When people talk about old fashion country soaps that "took your skin off," they were probably talking about old fashioned cleaning products that people made and called soap. My husband's grandmother's mother often made a soap-like concoction involving Comet & Borax. That WOULD take your skin off!

Well I think country folks did make soap that took they're skin off... father always talks about when he used to live in remote rural Brazil in the middle of nowhere in the 50's. I always here the story about the way people made soap using old random grease they found and lye, using no scale and just kinda mix it together. Apparently sometimes the soap was so greasy it didn't wash anything and some other times you'd loose your finger nails using it. On top of it they wouldn't wait 4 weeks to use it.... That's what my father used to think about my soap until he tried it... now he raves about it... anyways.
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2010 08:57:58 AM »

Wow, I'm glad this got dragged out of the depths--I've been wanting to make a shampoo bar for a while!  Are these particular oils really awesome for hair?  I don't have any mango butter, but if the recipe isn't too fussy, maybe I could substitute shea... what do you think?
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2010 09:12:42 AM »

Be sure to run through a lye calculator, but absolutely, substitute away! I've actually found I prefer to use avocado butter in place of the mango butter. But I'm a big fan of "use what you got." Smiley
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2010 12:42:07 PM »

Awesome!  I didn't know if those oils had particularly hair-friendly qualities.  Good to know subbing's all right--though I'll bet mango butter would smell lovely....
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« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2010 09:34:51 AM »

Cute!!!  Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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« Reply #15 on: April 05, 2010 10:04:33 AM »

Awesome!  I didn't know if those oils had particularly hair-friendly qualities.  Good to know subbing's all right--though I'll bet mango butter would smell lovely....

I have been meaning to say that sadly, mango butter does not smell like mangoes. It just smells like, well, oil. It has a slightly "tropical" undertone to it, but it's mostly oily smelling.

If it did smell like mango, it's be the only oil I ever used! Mmmmm I looooove mango. Cheesy
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« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2010 11:14:39 AM »

Aw, that's a bit disappointing.  But it's nice (and wallet-friendly) to know that I don't have to go get a new butter (though I do want to try more than just shea and cocoa--there are so many!).  I'm really psyched to try this recipe out.  Thanks for sharing!
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mrs.jackson
« Reply #17 on: July 13, 2010 06:27:04 PM »

Sorry, stupid question. I am new to soap making and have not yet started to superfat. When you guys say superfat, is it already calculated in the recipe? Or do I have to figure out what 8 % of those oils and do it from there? Also, Does it matter what oils are used to super fat?
Thank  you!
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Magnolia Blossom
« Reply #18 on: August 11, 2010 06:55:31 PM »

This recipe sounds great! 

At the risk of sounding like the total newbie that I am, where do you find is the best place to acquire avocado & jojoba oils and mango & cocoa butters? 

Also, does this weigh the hair down or can I still get some volume?
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MrZ
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2011 09:25:08 PM »

I found this recipe to be a real winner, and recommend it strongly.  However, I modified the recipe with a minor twist that you might find helpful (and basically eliminates the patience requirement you commented on:  I cut the water content of the caustic so I was using a 50/50 (wt/wt) mix of NaOH and water.  I also warmed the oils to about 100 F to help the butters and solids to melt/dissolve in the liquids.  When I mixed the caustic into the oils there is a pretty rapid reaction with significant temperature increase.  The mixture traces in about 5 minutes, and at this point I added my essential oils.  I poured the mixture into a long log mold as quickly as possible after mixing in the EO.  The mixture is pretty thick at this point, so it takes a bit of effort to get the mixture out of the mixing bowl, but it moves well with a rubber spatula.  Be sure to level any added materials and tap the mold once or twice to remove air bubbles trapped between the any layers of mixture in the mold.  My mold is made of wood, coated with Thompson's water seal (R) and sprayed with silicone mold release (local hardware store), I have not used any liner film and to date have not seen any negative reactions on the wood surfaces.  The reacting mixture gets pretty hot in the wooden mold (probably around 170F).  I leave the molds in the oven over night with the light on to maintain a temperature of about 90F to help the reaction along.  By morning the molded mass is quite hard and ready for demolding and cutting.  I have had great success simply removing the end piece of the mold, and then prying the log out with a spatula.  The bar has more than enough strength to lift out as a single log, and then I hand cut into bars about 1" thick.  I age the bars 3-4 weeks at house temperature (68F) at which point the weight is quite stable.  The resulting bars have an exceptionally rich lather that my wife loves as a shampoo bar.  I love the recipe myself and have already repeated at the 6 lb scale.  This is going to be a very popular bar with me, my wife and our friends.  Hope you find this suggestion helpful.

      Mr Z.
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« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2011 06:30:24 AM »

This is great!  I bet it would work great for a dog shampoo bar too, I keep thinking about making my pup some natural bug deterrent soap Smiley
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« Reply #21 on: June 05, 2011 05:48:51 PM »

I dont know how to make soap yet, but I'll definitely have to try making these once I've got the hang of it Cheesy

I've been incredibly desperate for something that'll help my hair, so I bought a shampoo bar on Etsy (I think it'll be here tomorrow.. But that might be my natural deodorant... New to that too lol...) So I can experiment with that kind of thing before I start making it, just to be sure it does work for me. If this works for my hair, I'll be passing on the message to at least one of my two brothers and my biological mom. We have evil hair >_>;;;

Would you happen to know if this recipe helps prevent dandruff at all? Unless it said somewhere on the front page and I missed it?
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