This is my version of a Victorian-esque pants/skirt. I'm not sure, but I think actual 'cycling skirts' or 'rational dress' were shorter than this.
I liked the fabric, but I also wanted a solid brown (that's more versatile), so I finished these to be reversible. (two-in-one, yay!)
: sorry, no in-progress shots...
1. Draft a pattern piece (something like this):A
: Front- Measure from center front along waist to side seam. Add 5/8" for seam allowance.B
: 17" (is what I used)C
: measure from waist to crotch (approx. 11")D
: Measure from waist along side seam to hem. Add allowance for hem. I did a narrow hem with 5/8" allowance.F
: Pleat line in front located 7 1/4" from side seam (made need to adjust location depending on waist measurement)G
: 1 1/4"CF
: Center Front
2. Cut 2 of pattern (each will be a leg) from fabric. Also cut waistband from fabric (waist measurement plus 2" in length and 4" wide) and from interfacing.
3. Pin pieces together along crotch (with side upon which finished seams will show outward; Sides without seams showing are together.) Sew with 5/8" seam allowance, starting at Center Front (CF) and stopping approximately 4 1/2" from center back edge (this will remain open and allow pants/skirt to slip over hips).
4. Press seam open. Tuck under and finish/sew seams for entire crotch including opening in back. (Flat-felled)
Visible Seam Detail
5. Pin side seams (same way as for crotch-I sewed mine so the seams showed on the right (patterned) side. Therefore, I had 'wrong' unpattered sides together) and sew. Press seams open and finish same as crotch.
6. Make pleats in front. Bring two pleat lines together. Baste along waistline/upper edge.
Pleats along Back opening
7. Make pleats in back (to taste). I made a pleat on both 'right' and 'wrong' sides of fabric to encase opening in the back. And then proceeded to mark pleats every 1 3/4" from center back outward, folding on marks and bringing them to meet the edge of the previous pleat. I had to try it on several times during this process until pleats picked up the extra fabric and the waist fit. (If you do this, be careful of pins
-OW!) Baste over pleats along waist.
8. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of waistband. Press under 5/8" along long side. Pin unpressed side along waist of pants/skirt, matching centers, leaving 5/8" extra on either side of center back opening. Stitch.
9. Press seam towards waistband. Fold in half length wise, lining folded edge up with seam. Press. With right sides together, stitch ends of waistband. Turn to inside. Press. Slipstitch folded edge to garment, hiding stitching.
Waistband after being slip-stitched.
10. Sew button and buttonhole on waistband.
11. Try on garment, mark hem. Stitch.
12. Party like it's 1899!