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Topic: where should boning end on wiggle dress?  (Read 488 times)
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Juniper_Ann
« on: May 07, 2009 11:51:20 AM »

I'm making a strapless "wiggle dress".  It currently has a rather prominent horizontal wrinkle at the back waist.  It's not riding up due to the butt being too small.  I think it's "riding down" because it's rather tight on the chest...but I think it needs to be somewhat tight there to support me and not gap.  I think I can fix the wrinkle with boning, but where should the boning end so that it doesn't dig in excessively, draw attention to where it ends with wrinkles or other visible signs, or restrict my movement too much?   
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Thesingingllamas
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« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2009 03:57:18 PM »

I think it should end about where a low rise pair of pants sit. The back may actually be too long. I tend to have this problem.
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Alexus1325
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2009 05:04:55 PM »

Ya, sounds like the torso may be a smidgeon long. Boning will help for sure, and I agree with Thesingingllamas.
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MissRachel
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2009 05:23:56 PM »

Have you thought about adjusting the pattern? I've found that I can eliminate that horizontal fabric bunching by taking the waist in. It's much easier than adding boning into the pattern.
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Juniper_Ann
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2009 02:38:19 PM »

It's a princess-seam dress with no horizontal seam at the waist, and it has plenty of ease everywhere below the wrinkle.  Also, the the waist is very snug.  However, I think the wrinkle may (at least in part) indicate fitting issues--namely, not quite enough room for my shoulder blades.  I'll ask my mom to help fix the fit, and then bone according to thesingingllama's suggestions.

Thanks, everyone! 
« Last Edit: May 12, 2009 02:38:53 PM by Juniper_Ann » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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Thesingingllamas
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2009 05:32:21 PM »

Hmm. I get extra fabric in the front because I have square shoulders, but I didn't think about it causing my wrinkle in the back until now. If your mom is helping fit you, try ripping out the shoulder seams and smoothing from the waist up.
Personally, I have an athletic build with square shoulders, a small bust, and athletic thighs with a small waist. I always seem to have fitting problems. I originally thought the extra fabric in the front was caused by my small bust, but I stuffed a bra up to the b that is standard and it still had extra fabric, which is when I discovered I had square shoulders.
You might have to redraw the shoulder seam and neckline, but it might be your problem.
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