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Topic: Stupid question from a novice sewer...  (Read 1310 times)
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tmbrunschen
« on: May 04, 2009 12:38:42 PM »

So, here I am at age 32, I haven't sewed anything since I was a teen (but used both patterns and my own brain quite well then) so I've decided to make my wedding dress as well as my Maid Of Dishonour's dress...

I've made a complete version of the dress in cotton and I've adjusted the patterns to better suit our body types and have made mock-ups/toiles using muslin/calico (I'm still amazed that American English and English English are so very different in the world of sewing... she says after buying too many yards of "muslin" in the UK and wondering why people kept sending her "cheesecloth"!) so I do feel ready to drag my sewing machine out and make history...

I'm stuck, however... I've always used what thread my mom had on hand, and as someone who normally deals in cottons I tend to have pure cotton thread... The dresses, however, will be made from satin and satin dupion. What thread should I be using here? Polyester or something?

I'm just SO lost and can't imagine cotton being the right choice considering give and ease and other technically-named things I can't articulate.

Any and all help is -greatly- appreciated!
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soorawn
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2009 02:01:35 PM »

... she says after buying too many yards of "muslin" in the UK and wondering why people kept sending her "cheesecloth"!

Oh... that explains a lot to me...  Roll Eyes


Well, I don't see anything wrong with good quality 100% cotton thread.  It's always been my choice of preference.  I use that or polyester.  To be honest, I don't see why cotton thread would impact on ease - no thread will give unless you use elastic thread.  Seams are not meant to give at all.
Anyway, I sew my silk garments with 100% Gutterman polyester with excellent results.  You can try that.
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wippelgem
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2009 03:02:13 PM »

I always use cotton!
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Cookn
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2009 02:59:52 AM »

Try this link http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/  for just about anything that you want or need to know about thread.
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craftnutz
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2009 05:18:50 AM »

No question is stupid when it comes to sewing satin!!  You should use either a long-stable polyester or a silk finish cotton for the best results.  Needles are important too, a universal h-point size to go with your fabric weight will cut down on the pulls and puckering in the fabric.  A lightweight satin should do well with a 60/8 to a 70/10 needle. You should have extra fine pins for construction and pattern pinning.  If you have pattern weights, these will do better for cutting out the pattern.  Mark lightly and as little as possible.  Sew in interfacings are a must, satin does not take well to iron on.  Use a nap layout because satin looks different in different directions.  After you cut out your pattern, take all the scraps and start sewing them together so you can get the feel of how it will do on your machine and make adjustments to the pressure foot, needle, tension balance, stitch length and other adjustments to get the best flat seam.  Buy extra fabric in case you make a mistake, ripping and satin do not go well together.  Practice, practice, practice before you start on your garment.  Good luck!
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craftnutz
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2009 05:27:31 AM »

And I just thought of this as well, ironing satin is a challenge.  As much as possible, iron from the wrong side.  If you have to iron the right side, use a pressing cloth or the fabric will 'glaze'.  Satin takes imprints from the iron so a press cloth is a must.  Use a seam roll to avoid edge impressions from the edge of the iron.
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lovesclutter
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« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2009 08:24:05 AM »

Try this link http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/  for just about anything that you want or need to know about thread.

Thank you for that link, I just came in here with a thread question. I will go and see if they can answer.
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x46
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2009 03:22:51 PM »

No suggestions on thread, but another on pressing: use something underneath darts and seam allowances when you're pressing, either a piece of card stock or a thick pressing cloth, to keep the impression of the darts, etc. from showing on the outside.
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blithe314
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2009 08:09:00 PM »

Try this link http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/  for just about anything that you want or need to know about thread.

HA!  I just posted a question about threads today.  I wish I had seen this.  Thanks for the info!

(And good luck with your huge undertaking for the wedding dresses!  You're a brave, and crafty woman!)

EDITED TO ADD - the link for "superiorthreads" doesn't work in the sense that all the links I click once there are blank.  Shoot!  Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
« Last Edit: May 06, 2009 08:12:07 PM by blithe314 » THIS ROCKS   Logged

soorawn
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2009 11:58:32 PM »

Nah.  Many of the pages are empty, as in "the info isn't available anymore" or "the info isn't available yet". I don't know which. Sad
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