Okay...guess I'm calmed down enough to write my reply again; just couldn't face it yesterday. Plus, it turns out that the Lazarus version available for Chrome is still beta and doesn't work yet for forum posts (composing this in my email so can't get evaporated again).
.. I only had some water based floor varnish and maby I didn't put enough coats on (I just put 1)...my dad lives at the sea side where it's humid...And yes, it had a whole for the hook to be hanged...
It was probably the tiny opening around the hole that did it, even if you used only one (thorough) coating of sealer, and especially since there was so much humidity. Next time you use salt dough for something that hangs, you might want to flood the opening around any hanger-thingie you use (or all the way down a hole you make if you use a finding that goes all the way through), with the sealer. That should work under most circumstances.
I have a hard time finding something like your Future and Flecto Varathan here... We just don't have those. so I have to try our brands how they work by myself.. And some let the moisture in I guess;)
I don't know where you are but you should probably be able to find both types
of sealer/finish almost anywhere, even though brand names might be different. Future
is manufactured by the S.C. Johnson company and they sell some version of it in many countries, though often with different names than Future... Klear or Klir is one name they often use but there are others.
You can check out the names the sell it under in different countries on the Finishes page of my site:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm
...under Future, the first category is Brands
(Just this year though, the name of the product sold in the U.S. has been changed to "Pledge with Future Shine," so it's possible that that particular product got sold or something, and that the name has also changed outside the U.S.)
There are also other brands of liquid "floor polish" that work the same as Future btw --like the Mop 'N Glo we have in the U.S.Varathane
is just one very good brand of polyurethane
, and clear polyurethanes should be available everywhere (in hardware stores, for "sealing bare wood").
For polymer clay, the water-based/indoor version is needed, but for air dry clays water-based isn't a requirement.
Most polyurethanes come in gloss, satin and matte versions but the gloss version of indoor Varathane also has something called IPN (interpenetrating network) that helps it get down into the surface of what it's been applied to even more than other polyurethanes, and it also has UV protection (to prevent later yellowing from light/heat).
All polyurethanes are tough and "hard" too so they scratch and absorb humidity much less than other clear finishes, and sometimes are even used as a final coat on other finishes.
For salt dough, probably the most common sealer is thinned-down permanent white glue (or decoupage mediums like ModPodge--same thing), but acrylic mediums can be used too or various other liquids and meltable powders, etc ...again though, those will be less tough than polyurethanes (or than clear fingernail polishes, but those get expensive on larger items). Two-part epoxy resins can be used as coatings too, but are more fiddly; they're tougher than some other finishes but not as tough as polyurethanes.
Polyurethanes are definitely thicker than the floor polishes so give more protection in that way too if there are later scratches or a lot of wear. Items can also be dipped into polyurethane as well as having it brushed on (hang, then wick off any drops that form in the first few mintues)...that gives a very thick glossy coating.
I still like the salt dough, though. I don't know why - maby because you can make it the way you want it - stiff, soft . . .
Polymer clay can also be various consistencies though --from very soft to much firmer, from sticky to not-sticky at all, etc. Which characteristics a polymer clay has depends on which brand/line is purchased in the first place, and then also on whether it's been treated after purchase to make it softer or firmer.
For example, the softer brands of polymer clay would be Sculpey, Sculpey III, SuperSculpey, and to a lesser extent FimoSoft... the firmest would be FimoClassic and Kato Polyclay, with Premo and Cernit between the groups.
The softer clays will be more easily distorted and marked with fingerprints, and won't take as much crisp detail as the firmer ones, and those first three Sculpeys will also be brittle after baking in any areas where they're thin.
The softer clays can be made a little stiffer though by cooling and/or by "leaching" out some of the oily plasticizer. The stiffer clays can be made softer by using additives (cooking oil, etc.), or by the warming and stretching created by conditioning the clay or just by warming.
More info on all those softening and firming things here:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Conditioning.htm
... and because you can bake it to get the nice yellow-brown color?
That's true, I guess, but polymer clay can easily be made that same color either before baking by mixing in certain colors of oil paints, alcohol inks, various powders, etc., or after baking by using brushed-on chalks and thinned paints (usually acrylics) to create the crustier areas, etc. And of course, polymer clay can be made virtually any color at all before shaping depending on which colors are mixed into the clay (and whether precolored clays were used instead of just white or translucent clays).
If you want to check out some of the "recipes" for making various kinds of "browns" check out my Color page:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/color.htm
...click on Recipes & Combos
, then scroll down a bit
...And, there's info on using paint/chalks (and even "canes") to create breads and grain products with two-tone coloring for the darker areas, etc, on the Miniatures page under the Breads
And probably most because it's kids safe - even if they eat it it's no harm so we can do it together and I need not to be worried.
Polymer clay isn't "toxic" in the technical sense of that word. It's been labeled non-toxic forever by the Arts and Crafts Institute which governs that kind of thing. (Dogs even eat quantities of it occasionally and suffer no ill effects, except technicolor poop.)
In an over-abundance of caution though, it's recommended not to use polymer clay for anything that will be eaten or drunk from just in case there should be some plastizer that didn't get polymerized in the very center of a piece (insufficient baking). Again not "toxic," but we all want to be prudent about getting even more "bad" stuff into our bodies over a lifetime than necessary considering all the bad things we take in just by living in a "developed" country (from rugs, furniture, cars, cleaning products, pesticides, you name it).
Recently (also in an over-abundance of caution) the EU created rules about which plastics could be sold in the EU, so all the brands of polymer clay have changed their formulas to reflect those changes so they could be sold in the EU (to children under 3, as a toy).
And because it's cheap;)
a point! Though there are
ways to do polymer clay more cheaply too (think I put links to stuff that discuss various ways of doing that, from buying to using, in one of the previous posts).