I posted the swatch for this hat on a Fiber Friday thread a few weeks ago. After at least three times of ripping out the top decreases, I finally finished it! The reason for the frequent ripping and redoing was that I wasn't quite satisfied with the top decreases and kept fiddling until they were just so.
The pattern was inspired by Jacques Cousteau hat
, but with different decreases. This was my first FO from my own handspun, and I'm pretty pleased with it, and have worn it every day!
From the top:
From the side:
By itself, so you can see how stretchy it is:
I'm calling this a "pipa", which means a woolly hat or toque in the Finnish dialect from the town I'm living in.
Pattern:The Pipa hat
Needles: 3,5 mm (either 80 cm circulars or set of 5 dpns)
Yarn: ca. 97 m / 41 g of wool (Finnsheep), 2-ply, spun thick and thin with woolen long draw, ca. 12-13 wpi
Gauge: ca. 15 st, 30 rows / 10x10 cm over somewhat stretched k3, p3 ribbing
Finished circumference: 56 cm.
Decreases:Left-leaning knit decreases
sl, k1, psso: Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit one stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
k2tog tbl: Knit two together through the back loop (i.e. slip two stitches as if to knit, return them to the left needle and knit together).
sl, k2tog, psso: Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit two together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Right-leaning knit decreases
k2tog: Knit two together.Left-leaning purl decreases
p2tog: Purl two together.
p3tog: Purl three together.
Right-leaning purl decreases
p2tog tbl: Purl two together through the back loop (i.e. slip two stitches as if to knit, return them to the left needle and purl together).Other abbreviations
(m): stitch marker (optional)
...: Continue in the *k3, p3* pattern until you reach the specified stitches before the marker.
CO 84 st.
Join and begin knitting in the round in *k3, p3* ribbing, using either the Magic Loop technique or with stitches divided over 4 dpns.
Knit 16 cm ( 48 rows); If you want, place markers between the 4 repeats of 21 stitches at the last row.
Start decrease rows:
Row 1: *sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog, (m), p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 2-4: Knit (4 rows, 8 st decreased)
Row 5: *sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog, (m), p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 6-8: Knit (4 rows, 16 st decreased)
Row 9: *k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog, (m), k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl*, repeat.
Rows 10-12: Knit (4 rows, 24 st decreased)
Row 13: *p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl, (m), sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog*, repeat.
Rows 14 and 15: Knit (3 rows, 32 st decreased)
Row 16: *p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl, (m), sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog*, repeat.
Rows 17 and 18: Knit (3 rows, 40 st decreased)
Row 19: *k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl, (m), k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog*, repeat.
Row 20: Knit (2 rows, 48 st decreased)
Row 21: *sl, k1, psso, k1, p3... k1, k2tog, (m), p2tog, p1, k3... p1, p2tog tbl*, repeat. (56 st decreased)
Row 22: *sl, k1, psso, p3... k2tog, (m), p2tog, k3... p2tog tbl*, repeat. (64 st decreased)
Row 23: *k2tog tbl, p3... p2tog, k2tog, p3...k2tog tbl*, repeat. (72 st decreased)
Row 24: *sl, k2tog, psso, (m), p3tog*, repeat. (80 st decreased)
Cut thread, leave an end and draw it through the remaining 4 stitches. Weave in ends and immersion-block (wash) the finished hat to give the yarn a chance to bloom.Notes
The decreases ensure that this hat will be fully reversible, as long as you are careful when weaving in your ends. If you don't like a turn-up at the brim, you can choose to knit only 14 or even 12 cm straight, and possibly start with 2-3 cm in k1, p1 ribbing. A longer turn-up is produced by knitting 18-20 cm straight before beginning the decreases. Larger or smaller sizes would be easiest to get by using yarn and needles to get larger or smaller gauge, but I think the principle of the decreases is clear enough that it's possible to adapt it to other stitch amounts.