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Topic: Making facial cleanser (recipe)  (Read 5778 times)
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swift
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« on: March 11, 2009 07:27:33 AM »

I am always looking out for a good facial cleanser as I have very sensitive facial skin (thanks to years of acne products) and I break out easily. So I've come up with a facial cleanser that works well for my oily, sensitive, acne prone skin....



FACIAL CLEANSER
50% water (you can substitute some water for hydrosols)
20% LSB or BSB surfactant (I like LSB for degreasing, use BSB if you have normal or dry skin)
10% Amphosol CG
10% aloe vera or other hydrosol
2% cromoist, hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
2% sodium lactate or glycerin
0.5% chamomile extract (optional)
0.5% honeysuckle extract (optional)
0.5% Germall Plus preservative or 1.0% Germaben II preservative
up to 2% Crothix

Blend the LSB and Amphosol CG together until well blended. Add the water and aloe vera or hydrosol into the mixture and mix until well blended. Now add the other ingredients, except for the Crothix and powdered extracts. Put a little warm water into a small cup and mix the extracts together before adding. Allow to sit for about an hour and check the viscosity. You will want to add at least 1% Crothix to this mixture as it is a good anti-irritant. If you wish it to be thicker, you can add another 1% for a total of 2% Crothix to this mixture. Allow the bubbles to settle, then package. A pump bottle is great for this cleanser (as per the picture).

If you want to increase the amount of aloe vera or hydrosol, remove an equal amount of water from this recipe. You can add other powdered extracts in place of the chamomile and honeysuckle - cucumber, green tea, etc. - but please read the information on those extracts before deciding to combine them (see my post on making facial toner at http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/03/fun-with-formulating-make-toner.html). Please do not leave out the preservative as there are many botanical ingredients in this recipe that need preserving. Finally, as there are many essential oils that are great for your facial skin, consider researching this topic and finding one you feel would be great for you. Keep the amount below 1% of the total weight of the recipe. You will want to add up to 1% (an equal amount) of polysorbate 20 emulsifier to the oil before adding, to keep the mixture emulsified.

If you want to know more about why I use the ingredients I did use or how to tweak the recipe, please visit the complete post (it's way too long to post here...) on my blog at: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/03/facial-cleansers.html. To celebrate March as National Craft Month, I'm posting a bath & body tutorial every day, with an emphasis on knowing your ingredients. 
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2009 08:55:28 AM »

You really know your stuff! I learned a ton from reading your toner tutorial... I have just been mixing witch hazel and tea tree.

Thanks for the great post  Smiley
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Eliea
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2009 10:09:10 AM »

this sounds great but I don't understand what "LSB or BSB surfactant" stands for. And where do I get it?
Thanks so much!
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2009 12:47:11 PM »

Awesome! You are now officially my go-to fancy formulator person lol!

« Last Edit: March 11, 2009 12:48:36 PM by MareMare » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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Eliea
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009 12:48:56 PM »

Awesome! You are now officially my go-to fancy formulator person lol!

Eliea~try www.lotioncrafter.com
thankies! I love this idea a lot so i'm probably going to investigate further and try it. Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2009 12:51:04 PM »

Awesome! You are now officially my go-to fancy formulator person lol!

Eliea~try www.lotioncrafter.com
thankies! I love this idea a lot so i'm probably going to investigate further and try it. Smiley

Lol I just edited that link out of my post because I went there and didn't see those particular surfectants...but that is a great site for lots of lotion/soap making ingredients! Will have to see where swift gets those items!
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2009 03:59:00 PM »

Holy cow, woman! I opened this expecting to see "use witch hazel, water and aloe!" and then thought "WOW! This girl knows her stuff!" I think you are my new hero...  Grin

I look forward to your tutorials!!  Kiss
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« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2009 07:17:28 PM »

You really know your stuff! I learned a ton from reading your toner tutorial... I have just been mixing witch hazel and tea tree.
Witch hazel is a great astringent, and tea tree is supposed to be a good antiseptic and anti-bacterial. Both are great. I add tons of extras to my toner because I can't use a moisturizer as often as I would like (serious break outs!), so I figure by including things like aloe and lavender hydrosols, as well as the oat protein and panthenol, I'm getting the goodness of a moisturizer in a toner. 

this sounds great but I don't understand what "LSB or BSB surfactant" stands for. And where do I get it? Thanks so much!
I've written a post on surfactants on my blog at: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/03/surfactants-short-guide-to-things.html. I could post it here - and I hope I'm not breaking any rules by posting the link - but it's very long!  

Effectively, LSB and BSB are surfactant blends (detergent blends) you can get at various suppliers. I get my supplies from Voyageur and Aquarius (Surrey and Mission, B.C.), because they're within driving distance for me,  but there are some great suppliers out there of bath & body stuff (The Herbarie in the US has many great surfactants! Brambleberry has awesome fragrances and other supplies!)  

I really recommend learning your ingredients - you can make all kinds of choices about what you want to include, figure out what is causing a reaction or maximize the qualities you want, and change recipes you find on line to be perfect for you! I've been writing a series of posts to describe the benefits of the various ingredients and what it brings to the party! (Again, happy to post them here, but they are fairly long!) 

Awesome! You are now officially my go-to fancy formulator person lol!

Hey, I'm always up for a challenge! :-) Bath & body formulating is my passion (although I dabble in tons of other crafts!) I'm hooked on chemistry and I get great joy out of formulating! If you go to the main site of my blog, you'll see this entire month is all about b&b - I finished the surfactant stuff yesterday, started on conditioners today, and will move on to anhydrous products (without water) next week some time, with posts interspersed with "know your ingredients" kind of information. I'll get around to posting some of the tutorials here on the weekend, but I warn you...some of them are really long!
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« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2009 08:04:36 PM »

I'm so intrigued by this. What is the consistency? I see it in a pump bottle, is it gel-ish? Or more watery, if that makes sense?
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« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2009 09:17:27 PM »

I'm so intrigued by this. What is the consistency? I see it in a pump bottle, is it gel-ish? Or more watery, if that makes sense?
It's really hard to describe viscosity in words, but I'm going to try! We're going for the consistency of shampoo. If you add 1% crothix (thickener), you'll have a nice viscosity. If you turn the bottle upside down, it's going to pour down the sides nicely. If you go for 2%, you're getting into the gel zone. We add the thickener to surfactant based products mainly because we expect the product to ooze just right. It's an aesthetic thing. Without the crothix, you still have a nice product, but there's a risk of using too much just because you expect it to come out of the bottle in a certain way.

I would suggest starting with 1% thickener and going from there. The viscosity is a personal thing - you are making it for yourself, so what do you like? - and you don't want to turn it into Jell-o! (Crothix is a picky beast - there is a fine line between Jell-o and just thick enough. So always start at 1%!) If you do reach the super thick zone, put it in a jar and call it "facial goo" (my "bubble goo" is very popular with kids, so you can always use your mistakes!) And I suggest using liquid Crothix that you add at the end of the recipe instead of the pastilles that you melt at the beginning. If you want it thicker, you add more liquid. If you're using pastilles and you want it thicker, you have to reheat everything!

As a note, if you are going to use citrus or lavender based essential oils (lemon, for instance, is good for oily skin), then you will want to put the oil in BEFORE using the Crothix, because they thicken the mixture nicely.
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