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Topic: questions from Lady Anca  (Read 2521 times)
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Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« on: February 23, 2009 10:53:00 AM »

Lady Anca, I'm answering some of your questions from another thread here in their own new thread since they're separate topic....plus questions you asked in another thread.

Quote
LADY ANCA: . . .can i use liquid polymer clay in order to make transparent "lentils" like those made from resin? I want to make those so i can glue a photo on the back, but i cannot find resin here, and i have to order diamond glaze from the USA...
DIANE B: . . .when you say "lentils," do you mean actual lentil shapes like the lentil beads made from polymer clay which are two shallow hemispheres joined together, or you do mean something like the small glass "pebbles" to which crafters sometimes glue photos/etc on their flat back sides (usually with E6000 glue), or are you thinking of another shape?
And what size are you thinking of for the pics and/or the clear tops??. . . you can't really get end up with truly clear effect with liquid clay when it's thick (as when poured into a mold, or even in a single layer).  The Fimo brand of liquid clay (does turn out "pretty clear" even when it's thick if treated right, but would probably not be as clear as you're wanting ...
LADY ANCA: ....I want to make those little pebbles in a medium size i guess, maximum 5 cm, minimum 2cm. . .i've seen that you can use DG3 instead of resin and i also understood that DG3 is the new Diamond Glaze. . . i want to use any material that replaces resin, one that is more simple and that is easy to buy (most materials i don't have because i cannot find them in my country and ...shipping costs a lot
 

The glass pebbles that many crafters glue photos/etc to the bottom side of, are much thicker than the "domed" clear coverings created by dimensional glues such as Diamond Glaze and the newer DG3 (also by Judikins, which has better clarity--fewer bubbles, etc-- and stronger adhesiveness). 
The glass pebbles come in various small sizes and thicknessneses (they're usually available in bags near the floral depts of craft stores, etc.). Images are glued onto the back of them with E6000 or another silicone glue, or even with a regular white glue or dimensional one like Diamond Glaze, etc.
Here are some pics of those:
http://www.graciousrain.com/2008/12/04/homemade-holiday-glass-pebble-magnets
http://www.google.com/images?q=glass+pebble+magnet
http://www.eyesaflame.com/demo_magnets.html
or used with polymer clay frames/bezels:
http://moodywoods.deviantart.com/art/odd-exhibit-45448929 ... http://www.celidonia.it/English/fairies_treasures.htm

If you want to create your own clear thick finish over a photo or other image though no matter what size/shape it is, dimensional glues will give a clear covering of any shape like that and will dry slightly domed. Dimensional glues won't be as scratch-resistant or humidity-resistant though as using a clear polyurethane or Future** floor polish though, or as having used an epoxy resin which is what is most-often used in cases like this; check out these links for examples of epoxy resin used this way:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gurucreations/sets/72157594453545269
http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?gallery
video tutorial using Easy Cast (a special epoxy resin): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEKnv0OU08
....(dimensional glues can be made less scratch- and humidity-resistant though by adding a coat of polyurethane)

So which effect did you have more in mind? 
And do you want to put your clear coating in a cell of some kind (bezel, etc.), or do you want to create freestanding shapes?


**in other countries, Future-Pledge is called by other names, but those should also work... for example:
....Norway ...Clear
....Sweden ... Sidolux?
....Netherlands ... Pronto Wax for wooden floors with a brown cap or "Parket Plus" (Edah, C-1000, Super de Boer)
....France and Belgium ... "Klir" --white plastic canister, sq.red cap (Auchan, Leclerc, Intermarche, Atac, Castorama, Carrefour, Monoprix)
.......Belgium now Johnsons Sols Plus-- just new labeling (Delhaize Supermarkets, Colruyt)
....Germany ...substitute for Future "Erdal Glnzer" or "Aldi Stodil" (DroMarkt or Mller stores, Marktkauf)
........ Xtracolour is distributing a product marked as 'Acrylic Gloss Clear' that smells suspiciously like Future Floor Wax.



Diane B.

P.S.  You might be able to get info about finding and/or shipping supplies from the clayer Dinko Tilov though I think he's in actually in Bulgaria:
http://www.funclay.com/About/index.html

P.P.S.  You might also want to read the (very long) Random Resin Thread over at the Jewelry and Trinkets's Discussions & Questions board:
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=10667.0

P.P.P.S.  If you never got information about making a "gradient" blend without a pasta machine from your question last July, check out this page at my site:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/pastamachines.htm
...click on No Pasta Machine?--Other Ways
And perhaps this page too: http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/blends.htm
And for info on baking clay (and avoiding burning, etc.), check this page if you didn't get an answer before:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm



.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2009 11:03:35 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Lady Anca
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2009 01:14:40 PM »

Wow, thank you so much. I am afraid to work with resin actually because i know that it is very toxic and now i don't have a mask. I live in an appartament, so the ventilation isn't that good enough. That is why i wanted a replacement. I wanted those pebbles to make...um, we call them brooches, and even some small earrings and rings.
About that resin tutorial, i just want to say that i've seen it a million times and it is AMAZING but unfortunately we don't have here those silver-plated rings and pewter pendants like those, there aren't any even made from metal.
Right now i work with polymer clay but i wanted to try something new, that's when i discovered resin. And i bought a pasta machine a couple of months ago Cheesy it's so great now that i can mix colors much more easily and i've made blends too!
This is what i've made! http://i36.tinypic.com/2enxl54.jpg
Considering that i have a topic only for myself *blushing*, i was wondering what is the difference between diamond glaze and mod podge? Which one is the best?
Quote
And do you want to put your clear coating in a cell of some kind (bezel, etc.), or do you want to create freestanding shapes?
I think i want to create freestanding shapes because i dont have bezels.
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Diane B.
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Posts: 5061
Joined: 01-May-2004

GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2009 08:41:16 AM »

Quote
Considering that i have a topic only for myself *blushing*. . .

lolol... first, be aware that new threads are happening all the time!  It would be very hard to read all the messages at a board if they weren't divided up into topics, or to find something specific later, and on the Discussions & Questions board that would be mean questions or discussion about various topics; on the Completed Projects board, that means one project per thread or various projects by one person per thread.  (There are thousands of threads on most boards!  Grin)

Quote
I am afraid to work with resin actually because i know that it is very toxic and now i don't have a mask. I live in an appartament, so the ventilation isn't that good enough. That is why i wanted a replacement.

Well, resins have different amounts of "toxicity" and the amount of "toxicity" changes with the type of resin used, and even the brand/line, as well as the amount of exposure and length of exposure.

Crafters don't even use the most "toxic" types of resin, and we don't work in factories where we would be exposed to huge amounts of the various ingredients (those workers are often who the strongest warnings are for). 
 
As for types actually used by most crafters and artists, polyester resins (sometimes called "casting resins") have the "worst" stuff in them (MEK) relatively speaking, and require defnite ventilation (and stink the most). 
Regular epoxy resins (usually used for coatings and in shallow cells) are less bad for lungs than polyesters are, and the new "casting" epoxies (there's at least one of those now, called Easy Cast) seem to be usable without any ventilation at all but have other disadvantages (but may be fine for the shallow cells you're thinking of).

Once they're cured, any resin that's sanded though can become airborne and get into lungs (just like many other airborne substances we inhale all the time that can't dissolve in our lungs).  So if one is doing a lot of sanding (especially polyester resin), or even just a lot of resin in general (especially polyester resin), it can be prudent to wear a good mask; otherwise reasonable ventilation (next to an open window, a couple of windows open, etc) should take care of most things.

Also, the word "toxic" isn't quite right.  In common speech, toxic usually means something that's immediately and seriously poisonous and deadly.  Scientifically it means "having a chemical nature that is harmful to health or lethal if consumed or otherwise entering into the body in sufficient quantities" though, so that could mean inhaling or taking in any amount of the substance at all, causing any problems at all over a lifetime of accumulation (along with all the other bad stuff we breathe/drink/eat/etc.).  But this is also why we don't stick our heads in the oven while polymer clay is curing and inhale deeply (same for the tailpipe of a running car, etc.) because it's the amount and accumulation that matters (burning polymer clay on the other hand is much worse stuff to breathe).


Quote
About that resin tutorial, i just want to say that i've seen it a million times and it is AMAZING but unfortunately we don't have here those silver-plated rings and pewter pendants like those, there aren't any even made from metal.

If you can't buy silver-plated or even pewter blanks for jewelry at all, then you can also just make blanks from polymer clay yourself, then use a metallic powder to make them metallic (the type of metallic powder made from mica, or from real-metal-with-reasonable-ventilation), or use metallic "leaf," or embossing powders, or even metallic colored acrylic paint--or "paint" made from mixing one of the metallic powders into a clear carrier like polyurethane/etc.).  Some of the photos I linked to before had "metallic" frames and bezels that were made that way.

Quote
Right now i work with polymer clay but i wanted to try something new, that's when i discovered resin. . . I think i want to create freestanding shapes because i dont have bezels.

There are other things you can use to replace resin as well, if you want, besides white-glue-based substances like the Judikins' products or ModPodge. 
Clear polyurethanes work very well for most applications (use water-based ones if working with polymer clay, and you'll generally want the Gloss version); they're a bit milky but dry very clear.  Those are usually sold for sealing and finishing bare wood in our hardware stores, and the new version of Sculpey Glaze is also a gloss polyurethane.  Some brands of polyurethane are UV resistant.
Future-Pledge cyanoacrylate floor polish for vinyl floors (or the equivalent brand in your country, if you have one) is another (though it's thinner to work with and usually won't be UV resistant.
Those two are the hardest and least scratchable of the finishes once they dry--compared to resins, acrylic mediums, white glues, clear embossing powders, etc.

Quote
i was wondering what is the difference between diamond glaze and mod podge? Which one is the best?

Diamond Glaze and the newer somewhat-less-scratch resistant DG3 are "dimensional" permanent white glues, which means that they can dry with a bit of a dome-effect instead of just flat. 
ModPodge is a cheaper thinned-down permanent white glue that can be used as a clear finish on many things, or to decoupage with.
Both of the Judikin's dimensional glues are probably are made to be clearer when they're thick, though all white glues will be clear (and glossy) when they're thin.  Multiple layers can be used for both if they're thoroughly dry first.
Because white glues are more scratch-prone though, a coat of polyurethane can be added on top to make them stronger if they're likely to get abraded... inside a "cell" they may not be though.

Here are some pages at my site you might be interested in for the topics above, if I haven't suggested them already:

making faux metallic effects on polymer clay:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Faux--many.htm (click on Metals)
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/powders_metallicwaxes.htm

more frames:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/frames-mirrors.htm (click on Small Frames for Pins, etc.)
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/beads.htm (click on Bezels, Frames)

clear finishes (polyurethanes, Future, white glues, etc., etc.)
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.htm

resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.)
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm


HTH,

Diane B.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2009 08:51:03 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Lady Anca
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2009 11:27:37 AM »

If you can't buy silver-plated or even pewter blanks for jewelry at all, then you can also just make blanks from polymer clay yourself, then use a metallic powder to make them metallic (the type of metallic powder made from mica, or from real-metal-with-reasonable-ventilation), or use metallic "leaf," or embossing powders, or even metallic colored acrylic paint--or "paint" made from mixing one of the metallic powders into a clear carrier like polyurethane/etc.).  Some of the photos I linked to before had "metallic" frames and bezels that were made that way.
Wow that is amazing! Thank you so much for your time!  Kiss Great idea!
Actually i have silver powder Cheesy *dancing*
« Last Edit: February 24, 2009 11:28:55 AM by Lady Anca » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Lady Anca
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2009 10:21:13 AM »

Unfortunately now i am a bit busy with the exams and i cannot work with polymer clay but i want so badly to make just one pair of earrings!  Cry
Luckly, i have time for research  Grin So, i've checked glassatic.com but i still have one question: if i want to mix seed beads with polymer clay, which one is the "safest" method? I want to make something like this:
http://pcpolyzine.com/april2001/booklace.html
http://naamazamir.blogspot.com/2008/08/more-from-sisyphean-line.html
I don't think i can find here a glue that is heat-resistant. If i just put them before baking, is there a chance that the beads will fall afterwards?
I was considering using 3mm wire but a year ago when i tried this, the wire tended to get out from the polymer clay before baking.
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Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2009 01:18:57 PM »

I'm really confused as to why MY name is listed as the original question asker!  Shocked Shocked... and what happened to all the other responses after this one (which aren't showing up for me at all...lolol).

At any rate, if you never got an answer to this, you can find all the info about using seed beads in polymer clay though on this page at glassattic:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/mixing_media.htm
....click on the Seed Beads category

HTH,
Diane B.

Quote
Unfortunately now i am a bit busy with the exams and i cannot work with polymer clay but i want so badly to make just one pair of earrings!  Cry
Luckly, i have time for research  Grin So, i've checked glassatic.com but i still have one question: if i want to mix seed beads with polymer clay, which one is the "safest" method? I want to make something like this:
http://pcpolyzine.com/april2001/booklace.html
http://naamazamir.blogspot.com/2008/08/more-from-sisyphean-line.html
I don't think i can find here a glue that is heat-resistant. If i just put them before baking, is there a chance that the beads will fall afterwards?
I was considering using 3mm wire but a year ago when i tried this, the wire tended to get out from the polymer clay before baking.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2009 01:41:55 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
Lady Anca
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2009 03:13:08 AM »

How can you obtain this effect?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/beadworx/704184763/
I'm not reffering about the blending part, i want to find out how i can obtain that texture.
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Diane B.
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Posts: 5061
Joined: 01-May-2004

GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"


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« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2009 09:09:15 AM »

Quote
http://www.flickr.com/photos/beadworx/704184763/
i want to find out how i can obtain that texture.

Looks like some type of medium to fine sandpaper to me (perhaps pressed onto the raw clay over and over so the depressions will show up as quite variable in size and relative position).  Some rocks might have surfaces like that too, or perhaps she made her own sandpaper with sand or other grains of varying sizes.

It could have been stamping with other things that have a rough surface though with lots of fairly "straight" projections (in other words, not something like a scrubbie, etc., since the impressions from those would be more linear than hole-like).


HTH,

Diane B.

 

THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
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