Sure, you can use epoxy resin over baked polymer clay (...btw, "Aristocrat's Liquid Glass" is one brand
of epoxy resin, though there are several other products named "Liquid Glass" as well that aren't the same thing).
(It's best not to heat resins after they're cured since that can discolor them or otherwise make them less than desirable at certain temps.)
I want to give some of my pieces a shiny finish
Epoxy resin will
give a high-gloss finish to polymer clay but it's not as commonly used as polyurethane (especially the brand Varathane--gloss, water-washup) and as Future-Pledge (a cyanoacrylate floor polish). The brand new version of Sculpey Glaze is also a polyurethane but may not be quite as sink-in-able as the Varathane brand.
Other clear finishes can be used too, but like epoxy resins they're either more easily scratachble or more susceptible to later humidity and cloudiness (e.g., gloss acrylic medium, clear embossing powders, "dimensional" glues, etc.).
Some clear acrylic fingernail polishes are also not so scratchable, but will be more expensive by volume than Varathane or Future.
Epoxy resins also aren't
UV resistant (Future also) and can yellow over time with a lot of direct exposure to sun, etc., which is another reason UV-resistant polyurethanes are good, and in fact are often used as a final coat over epoxy resins and some of the other scratchable mediums for strength as well as UV protection.
I saw this gorgeous tutorial on miniature pancakes as well, and i would've been able to make it except to do the 'syrup' you have to colour liquid clay with pastal and drizzle it over the top THEN bake. Has anyone done anything like this but instead, baked then added the resin after?
If you want to use epoxy resin, it would be best to put it on baked
polymer clay to avoid yellowing/etc.
Since syrup is on the yellow-brown side itself though, plus the fact that any particulate/opaque/colored matter put in resin will tend to make any yellowing less observable, you could always try.
Miniaturists have always used the other clear mediums I mentioned above when making drippy stuff like this (many don't even know about liquid polymer clay)...for example, they use Future (which is thinner unless left out a day or two), polyurethane, clear acrylic mediums, etc. Those can be "tinted" with water-based colorants (acrylic paints, certain inks, etc, and perhaps even alcohol inks though those may need to evaporate the alcohol out awhile), as well as being able to be colored by having particulate "inclusions" like various powders, glitters, etc. put in them. They've used those things for miniature fake foods, ponds, blood, and just all kinds of liquidy things.
I do not have liquid clay, and i don't even think my art supplies store sells it.
You can buy liquid polymer clay in most craft stores, Joanns, etc., and online... the brand may vary though depending on where you are. (The Polyform/Sculpey version is the least clear if that matters--though there are ways to make all the brands clearer, Kato's version is the thinnest and most self-leveling and clearer, and Fimo's may be the clearest when very thick.)
If you want to check out liquid clays and their differences and how to use, where to buy them, etc., check out this page:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/LiquidSculpey.htm
Diane B.Anyone interested in having a Resins board at Craftster, post your "vote" in this thread:http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=160523.msg3264966#msg3264966