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Topic: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!  (Read 95984 times)
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IndividualFrog
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« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2005 02:11:16 PM »

Alright!  That's great.  Now I just have to get a new ink cartridge for my printer.  Are you 100% sure that things are printing out at the correct size?

I've never used a commercial pattern.  But the notches are meant to communicate things to us: the size of the seam allowance, which pieces go with which, when to ease things, etc.  According to my patternmaking teacher, notches are the international language of sewing...  (I think you're right and on commercial patterns the "notches" stick out instead of being clipped in.)  So my feeling is that the seam allowance is on there already; it might be small because of the metric system, or the standards of the house of Galliano, or who knows what.
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« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2005 05:19:33 PM »

i agree with the notching theories so far too, often sewers just clip in instead of taking the time to cut around a triangle... they also indicate where pieces should match up, this could be key in this project. it would also seem to indicate an allowance for seams is included on that part because you wouldn't want to be cutting past your sewing line.  I often sew with 1/4in seams and 1cm is closer to 3/8 in so still pretty small but possible depending on your fabric choice.
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IndividualFrog
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« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2005 08:37:15 PM »

Oh yeah, and how many pages is it total?  I might need to buy paper as well
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« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2005 10:19:08 PM »

I've been wanting to make this for AGES.
As well as the other downloadable projects too (the yamamoto top is GORGEOUS, and OH SO SIMPLE). But just haven't got around to it.
I, like IndividualFrog, am also a guy, so I'm not sure I could pull this off, but I still want to make it! If only just to say I did!
I'll join in!
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cathou
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« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2005 08:03:49 AM »

Oh yeah, and how many pages is it total?  I might need to buy paper as well

If I base myself on the kimono top.... there was 25 pages by big sheet .... so that would make 75 pages.

And all of you make sur you are printing at full size and that your printer isnt resizing!!
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« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2005 12:21:47 PM »

Printing, Update Part Two:

Well, I discovered that pieces actually printed at about 90% when I copied them into saved Photoshop files.  Glad I noticed before cutting!  (Although I don't even have my mock-up fabric yet.)  Anyway, I am nearly certain that using the Graphics Select Tool in Acrobat to select 8x10.5 rectangles will result in printing full-size pattern pieces.  This can be checked by measuring the seam allowances on the printout - which I think we've deduced should be 1 cm where marked.  I tested one page printing this way and got 1 cm seam allowances, so that's full size.  I'll print the rest asap.
As for paper, it took me 40 sheets last time at 90%, so I second Cathou's guess and say between 50 & 75 sheets for full-size.  It doesn't really use that much ink, because it's just a few lines on each sheet, not a full page of text.

Are there any other marks that we should pay attention to while cutting?  Certainly the grainline arrows...I'm dredging my memory and thinking that the grainline goes along the bolt, not across, yes?  Are there other cutting notations that anyone else has noticed?

Oh, and if anyone happens to live in Philadelphia and wants to work on this project in person, let me know.
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IndividualFrog
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« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2005 02:54:20 PM »

grainline is parallel to the selvage (the "finished" sides of the fabric).  Be careful you are cutting things out on the correct side of the fabric!  With such a complicated bunch of pieces you would not want any of them to be backward.
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retroxpink
« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2005 11:52:17 AM »

I'm going to be moving to the Philadelphia area near the beginning of June...but I may be away for the summer, so I'll let you know about getting together to sew.  I'm probably going to print the pattern out soon...I can print at the campus library for free with a laser printer- quick and color fast.  cause I just know that I'll spill water on it at some point...

(I'm the one from livejournal/~sew_hip, by the way)
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cathou
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« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2005 10:28:41 AM »

I found an easier way to print it on a home printer. You will need adobe's Illustrator 10 (haven't tried it with other versions):
-open your pdf in Illustrator (right-click on the pattern icon, open with>Illustrator)
-go in file>document setup
-In view check the tile imageable area option
-click ok (you should see a map of all the pages numbered on the pattern)
-print!!
-repeat for all 3 pages

I have tried it and it worked for me... the size was 100% all the pages matches
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IndividualFrog
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« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2005 03:48:56 AM »

I have printed out the first page.  Unfortunately, since I have an old and sucky computer, it took me several hours.  But it's fascinating.  I find it really bizarre that they included instructions for the sleeve only, since it seems to me to be the easiest part of this jacket to understand.  It's just a regular ol' sleeve cut into pieces so that you can make the colors right.  If you match notch to notch it's totally simple.

I've got to go to bed now, but I'll be printing out the rest tomorrow.  This project is very exciting to me as a designer because it's a real glimpse into the technique of perhaps my favorite designer of all.  See you all soon.
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