I can't imagine
having done a tutorial (or much of anything) while my son was that small, but then he was also a little time-intensive.
Anyway, until beadingjunkee gets around to a tutorial, there are loads of lessons
at my site about stamping on clay, "highlighting" (and/or "antitquing") it with mica powders or other materials, cutting stamped or textured clay into shapes, and making pendants by adding holes and/or connectors for them.
So for anyone interested (especially horsygirl321
, and pinkricepudding
), those lessons/etc would be on these particular pages:Stamping
> Basic Techniques
.....and also > Purchased Stamps
, Having Your Own Rubberstamps Made
, and Making Your Own Stampshttp://www.glassattic.com/polymer/stamping.htm
(and also Texturing
which is similar http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/texturing.htm
> Techniques Summary
, then scroll down to the info on "Highlighting" and "Antiquing"
....and also > Mica Powdershttp://www.glassattic.com/polymer/powders_metallicwaxes.htmPendants
> Loops & Holeshttp://www.glassattic.com/polymer/pendants_cording.htm
, about "firing" polymer clay... polymer clay isn't "fired" at high heat in a kiln like earth clays; it's simply "baked
" at a relatively low temperature for a short time in a regular home oven (or some other heating mechanism) to cure --it won't ever "dry" like air-dry clays though since it's not water-based; instead it's chemically fused or "polymerized" when heated sufficiently but not-too-much to make it harden:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm
about cutting the shapes
Generally shapes are cut after the clay sheet/etc has been textured just because the edges will be neater, but they don't always have to be cut then:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/cutters-blades.htm
If your clay is getting too soft
, you probably will want to switch brands,**
and/or to use some of the "cooling" methods for firming clay up discussed on this page:http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Conditioning.htm
**avoid Sculpey III, Sculpey, and SuperSculpey-flesh (perhaps also FimoSoft and Premo if your hands or your environment tend to be really hot):http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm
That leaves using FimoClassic or Kato Polyclay for the absolute least-soft brands/lines --or perhaps "leaching" and cooling the other brands or soft bars that you already have...see "Conditioning" page link just above for information on how to Leach
clay as well as how to cool it.
P.S. Anyone really interested in using polymer clay should check out the 2 Polymer Clay clay boards
Polymer Clay Discussion and Questions: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?board=239.0
Polymer Clay Completed Projects: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?board=238.0